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  #1  
Old 08-20-2017, 11:29 AM
sdeminie sdeminie is offline
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Default New to me 128 has big problem.

Well my $200.00 128 just got expensive. The PO said the clutch was bad but not which one. I didn't think to ask. Turns out it is the the front one. I rebuilt the carb, cleaned the fuel system, installed a new battery. Attempted to start and then locked up. The front clutch is loose. Take everything apart and the front clutch drive plate is all wallowed out and the crank snout is also buggered up pretty good and the key and keyway is toast. I have been trying to find the best way to reduce resolution on my pics to get them loaded to my photo site so no pics yet. Any thoughts on where to start on the crank problem. New crank with a rebuild on the motor, search for replacement motor. I am in no hurry whatever I do. This is a hobby not for work. The 2284 was for work, but the land deal fell through.
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Old 08-20-2017, 11:42 AM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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I have any engine here with a bad crank like you describe. I installed the longest key i could and then installed a new basket pulley, i used plenty of loctite and tightened the heck out of the set screws in the basket pulley to ensure they wouldn't come loose. That engine mowed my grass for 4yrs with a 48" like that and never had an issue. It's not the ideal fix but it worked and it saved me from having to tear a great running engine apart.
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Old 08-20-2017, 11:49 AM
sdeminie sdeminie is offline
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Good idea. I just found out about Loctite 660 which is used as a filler for cylindrical slack like loose bearing races and such. I can mic the crank and see how much wear there is on it. The clutch drive plate is bad but that is an easy replace. Good place to start. I just had to walk away from it yesterday and do some thinking.
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Old 08-20-2017, 12:17 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Locktite 660 is a retaining compound, not a filler. It's only designed to fill gaps up to .02" I'm willing to bet the keyway in your crank has a larger gap than that. If crank replacement isn't an option, I'd weld it up and reshape they keyway and replace the front seal. Even JB weld would work for a good while as long as the set screws stay tight. If it's really bad, I'd tach the key to crank. Not weld it solid.... but I would consider that as opposed to crank replacement if the motor is good.
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Old 08-20-2017, 12:50 PM
sdeminie sdeminie is offline
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It is not tach it is tack weld. I am sorry for using the wrong term again. It is not filler. The crank measures .980 from the good side to the worn side in one spot. As you look at the crank with the keyway up the bad spot is 90 degrees to the right where the second set screw is. Looking at the key from the end it looks like a thick 'L'. I read the info from the Loctite website and I knew it was .02". Thank you Olds45512 and J-Mech. I have a plethora of options now. This 128 is fairly rough which everyone could see if I posted my pictures. Any suggestions on the best way to do that.. I use picturetrail but the pictures have to be resized and I haven't done that in a while.
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Old 08-20-2017, 01:17 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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If you take pics with a cell phone, lower the resolution before taking the pic. Works fine for me if I do that.
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Old 08-20-2017, 02:08 PM
sdeminie sdeminie is offline
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Thank you J-Mech. I was trying avoid reducing it on the phone because then I want to take 2 to keep from of the higher resolutions.
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  #8  
Old 08-20-2017, 03:31 PM
sdeminie sdeminie is offline
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http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL162.../413516190.jpg

Finally a picture of the crank
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Old 08-20-2017, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdeminie View Post
That's exactly how mine looked. Buy a long key and cut it to fit and shape the rear of it so it sits in the keyway as far as it can and you should be fine. Your basket pulley is most likely junk so you will need to get a new one.
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Old 08-20-2017, 05:15 PM
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How much is the crank undersize in the area where the clutch rides?
if not, just turn the crank a 1/4 of a turn and mill a new keyway, problem solved.
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