1250 Found A New Home

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by jsoluna

As my time is very limited, I'm thinking about trying to do a quick refresh on the replacement engine.

I'm trying to get some input on whether or not it is worth putting the time into.

The first issue I have questions about is what I am calling the "ACR tab". (I looked at the Kohler Service Manual and did not see a detailed description of this)

This tab is loose. It appears as though it it some sort of guide for the flyweights so when they hinge out they have some support. I can pivot it back over the flyweights (as seen in the second pic) but it is too loose to stay there on its own.

Do I have to remove the cam to try and tighten it back up? I looked in with an inspection mirror and it appears to be an allen head holding it to the cam gear. Maybe not, though. I couldn't get any of my wrenches to grab it.

Thoughts?

The tab isn't supposed to move. It's riveted on, not bolted. You may be able to tighten it up with the cam removed. Might have to tack weld it in place.

I quick "refresh" is a waste of time and money. An overhaul is not. The engine has the tell tale signs of being an oil burner. The missing piece of piston on the skirt and the chunk missing from the lower cylinder is irrelevant. Skirt piece isn't large enough to have been an issue. The cylinder piece is missing from the first time the motor went. It fine. If you want to do anything, bore it, grind the crank, install new valves and do all appropriate machine work. (The list of needed parts will be the same for either motor.) You don't need mic's and all that crap unless you also have a boring bar and a crank grinder hidden the corner. Let the machine shop do their job, and don't waste money with tools you won't be needing.

[Terry C]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

The tab isn't supposed to move. It's riveted on, not bolted. You may be able to tighten it up with the cam removed. Might have to tack weld it in place.

I quick "refresh" is a waste of time and money. An overhaul is not. The engine has the tell tale signs of being an oil burner. The missing piece of piston on the skirt and the chunk missing from the lower cylinder is irrelevant. Skirt piece isn't large enough to have been an issue. The cylinder piece is missing from the first time the motor went. It fine. If you want to do anything, bore it, grind the crank, install new valves and do all appropriate machine work. (The list of needed parts will be the same for either motor.) You don't need mic's and all that crap unless you also have a boring bar and a crank grinder hidden the corner. Let the machine shop do their job, and don't waste money with tools you won't be needing.

Good advice on the not buying a bunch of tools you won't use again. You won't get a good measurement with telescoping gauges unless you are an expierienced machinist. Most people think you put it in the hole and let it spring out. Not even close. Like J said let the machine shop take care of that stuff.

[jsoluna]

Thanks for the advice. I'll let you all know what happens.

[jsoluna]

Well, here is the much - delayed update.

I learned a lot over the course of the past few months. After tearing completely into the used replacement engine, I decided to polish the crank, hone the cylinder, lap the valves, and install a new rod, piston, and rings.

What I learned is pretty much what everyone was telling me. If I was that far into the engine, I should have just had the bore and crank checked and machined. Instead, I skipped that step and reassembled. My assembly went very well. I love working on the K engines. They are very simple. I was able to get the cam shimmed properly, crank end play perfect, and had it all timed and adjusted just right.

The problem was that it wasn't more than an hour before I started hearing a horrible knock. The engine ran well and had plenty of power but I ended up taking it all back apart and found an out of round crankpin and out of round/tapered bore as evidenced by the already wearing replacement parts. I had major piston slap and rod knock that would have eventually spelled death for the cast iron beast.

On the plus side, I learned a lot about the internals of the K Series engines. Next rebuild is going straight to a machine shop for measurements and machining. Every K Series I've had has been used and abused before I got it, and each of them were in various stages of the end of their life cycle.

So, the 1250 sits in the shop now waiting for a proper rebuild/implant.

I was able to come across some funds a few weeks ago and found another 1250 with hydraulic lift. It came with ags, front blade, and 44 deck. I will be starting a new thread as I rebuild it as well. From what I've seen so far, this tractor had someone care for it to some degree (if without much aptitude) but has quite a few hours on it and will need a lot of repairs and PO fixes. The engine is in better shape, but needs a rebuild soon as well.

I guess if knowledge is the goal, acquiring high-hour tractors is the way to go.