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  #1  
Old 03-31-2009, 03:27 AM
clint clint is offline
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Default 1450 Hydro question

I just purchased a Cub Cadet 1450 Hydro, it's in great shape, well great shape for a restore, which I plan to do. I know worthless without pictures, I will get some up soon. I have a few questions, and just a general lust for knowledge, and would be in debt for any help.

First think I have a hard time getting it to crank, once it's running it is smooth, plenty of power etc. I have to put a hot wire to the hot side of the coil to get it to crank, however I'm reading 12 volts at the hot coil terminal. I'm really thinking of trying the points saver I have read about, one thing I like is for my tractor/lawn mower to crank when I want it to!! Any info for helping me trouble shoot this will be greatly appreciated.

Second, I removed the cover where the drive shaft from motor to transmission, two problems... One is there is two hex bolts on top or supposed to be, I only have one, the other has a small needle like sticking out, both are seeping some fluid, everything hydraulic works on the tractor, lift, forward reverse etc. I need to get this fixed tho, and was wondering where I can find the piece. I will see if I can get a picture, but maybe my description will be of some help. As well with this I don't have any brakes, I have downloaded the manuals, and think I can handle the adjustment on this ( I hope).

I will also in the future need to rebuild the steering shaft, as there is some play, I want to nip that before it causes a costly repair for sure, and of course the front clutch needs to be replaced, I'm thinking of doing the mod using the universal joint here unless anyone gives me a good reason (looking for knowledge here) not to, and the plastic fan will need to be replaced. I wonder on this, the aluminum electric motor fan looks like it would be a good replacement, I don't think I would have any problem making a bushing/adapter for this ( I have a lathe). I purchased a set of side fenders, however the rubber grommet thingies that go from the motor at the flywheel/rear of engine are missing on both sides, so any ideas on making one, or where to purchase would be helpful. Also someone of course took the heat shrouds off the top front of the motor, and the original aircleaner/housing for the carb so I will need to make these, or find some, any info on this would also be appreciated. The deck is in great shape, does need safety cover for left side of belt.

the good part is, the paint is in decent shape, no bad rust, front wheels need blasting, and painting, some speckle rust, however it's all original, stickers, plates etc, I thought about repainting it, however I really like factory paint, even if it's not in perfect shape, it's really hard to duplicate the class of the stickers, emblems, tags etc.. This will be a long ongoing project, my main goal as of now is getting it to crank, and mechanically sound. Looking at my post above, I said it's in great shape, but wow, she does need some TLC, I just want to get it back to factory specs (with maybe a few mods like the drive shaft) A few pics below, I will get some complete pics.

I hope I didn't post my first post in the wrong sub forum, this is a great site, with loads of info, and helpful users, I hope to become one of in the future.





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  #2  
Old 03-31-2009, 03:54 AM
clint clint is offline
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Default

Up late working crazy swing shift hours !! Here are a few more pictures, you can see where someone put a off brand air filter/housing on it. I took it by the car wash on the way home, and it really cleaned up well, looks so much better now, however it still needs a lot of cleaning and TLC !! I got the serial off the side of the frame, however it does not match up to the manuals etc I have seen, serial off side silver tag and clutch/brake 2050660U621050

I'm not sure the hydraulic handle is factory, if not I will make one that looks better out of stainless of something that does not rust !! If I restore it to the point I would like, wow it would take a lot of time and money, however it's so much more of a "lawn mower" than I have ever had it's well worth it if I can space it out over time so the hit will not be so big. Little things like the hour meter etc may be a challenge for sure.



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Old 03-31-2009, 07:01 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Clint:

First, welcome to our Forum.........

On the issue of starting, it could be one of three things. The Ignition Switch, the PTO Switch, or lastly the Safety Switch. Here is a link to the wiring diagram for you model.... Diagram This will help you trace down the problem.

On the issue of the Hex Bolts, I think I know what you are talking about but pictures would be nice to know for sure....

On the issue of the Steering play.....click on this link...... Steering
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CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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Old 03-31-2009, 10:12 AM
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MBounds MBounds is offline
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Clint..likewise, Welcome...

Your Serial number:

205 = IH Kind # for a Garden Tractor

0660= IH Factory Code for a Model 1450

U = Manufactured at the US plant (IH had plants 'round the world) in Louisville KY.

621050 = one-up serial number ( manufactured in late Dec 1977)

All Manuals for the Tractor will reference the 1450 Model number and not the IH Kind/Code numbers found on your data plate. Operators, Service and Parts Manuals are available from www.binderbooks.com. The IH CPE-2 Parts Manual for Cub Cadet Equipment (mower decks, tillers, etc.), is also available there, and is highly recommended if you have any of those optional items of equipment.

Myron B
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  #5  
Old 03-31-2009, 12:28 PM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Clint! Glad to have you here! Nice 1450 you have there. It looks like your gas tank has been replaced, as well. Is it metal? The Quietlines had plastic gas tanks. Good luck, with your 1450!
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Old 03-31-2009, 12:37 PM
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young enthusiest young enthusiest is offline
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Hey, I must say thats a nice tractor you got. It LOOKS like the heat sheild from the back of the motor is missing too. thats not a big deal though. Maybe someone else will be able to answer my question. Why does the dipstick come out of the top of the shrouding? On both my k341's (same Idea i think) it comes up a tube right BESIDE the shrouding. looking closley at the last pic you posted, is that straw packed around the Spark plug? it looks like somthing is there. I would probably clean up the connections on the wiring at the coil, condenser, and the breakers. that might help to get a little more juice to the plug to get it to start better. just my $.02. Good luck!
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Tyler Chiliak. Southeast Alberta Canada.
My dad and I own, 1650, , 1450, 1250, 1250, 1200, 982, 782, 149, 149, 149, 128, 128, 123, 100, 100. Also a 1310, 1500, and 2 1600 IHC trucks.
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:17 PM
clint clint is offline
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I will order a good manual for it, I'm not familiar at all with this tractor !! Great info so far, and thanks !! As for the straw I think it was just the angle of the pic maybe ? I took it to the car wash, and after washing the motor looks new, except for the missing parts/shields etc, also someone tried to weld a piece of the shield that holds the muffler on, I will fix the right, grind it down, and repaint it... I will also get some of that ceramic high temp paint for the muffler, maybe that will keep the muffler from rusting anymore. The gas tank is metal, it looks factory, however as I said I'm not very familiar with this tractor ( my first cub cadet), in any case if it is not factory I'm not worried about it as it fits good, no rust etc. I gave $300 for this girl, I do not want to restore it to the point of it being to nice to use, however I would like to restore it to good mechanical working condition, with all the parts on it, I'm still undecided on what to do about the paint...

I'm getting gas at the carb, however it's ready for a rebuild..I also tried starting flued direct into the carb with no results. The wiring is good at he switch, down to the end of the black wiring harness protector, that's where the wiring looks like it has been altered on a few wires. I have a small ultrasonic cleaner that I will clean it up good, and rebuild, if it needs the linkage bushing I will make one from brass, or bronze..having a lathe should pay off getting the quirks out of this little girl. The man I purchased it from said it did not charge, looks like a major task getting to the stator to check it, I have the wiring diagram , operators, and owners manual.. some good info in them, however I need more in depth info so I will need to purchase the service manual.

On the dipstick it looks factory, maybe the missing shields/motor shrouds cause it to look odd ? I'm going to post a pic of the missing nut on top of the transmission below, from a schematic. Looks like I'm missing the check valve, or the nut on top of the check valve. It's the item marks 1, and I'm missing the one on the left side (carb side of tractor).

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Old 03-31-2009, 01:42 PM
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young enthusiest young enthusiest is offline
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My k341 thats goin in my1200 was not charging either. turned out that there was a wire not hooked up. I think that it ought to be pretty simple if yo uhave a test light to see if it is chargin. (of course you would have to get it running first) I am assuming you got some other tricks for getting it to run, but I'll post mine anyway. Run through the plug with a wire brush, put some WD-40 in the top of the coil to get a better connection (I have seen a lot of kohler coils that get real rusty in the top, and you gor a real good spark some time, and nothing a second later. Put a couple drops of gas on the plug before you put it back in. put a little gas in the cylinder too. it SHOULD come to life. If you can, though, boost the battery while you crank. the extra volts and RPMS will help immensly. just my $.02. good luck!
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Tyler Chiliak. Southeast Alberta Canada.
My dad and I own, 1650, , 1450, 1250, 1250, 1200, 982, 782, 149, 149, 149, 128, 128, 123, 100, 100. Also a 1310, 1500, and 2 1600 IHC trucks.
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:46 PM
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Oh yes, if and when you get around to replacing the guages/wiring, just go to almost any auto parts store and you should be able to get a voltmeter (better than an amp meter) and a hourmeter for less than $60. I don't know if they even make analogue hour meters any more. NEW wiring is a MUST!
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Tyler Chiliak. Southeast Alberta Canada.
My dad and I own, 1650, , 1450, 1250, 1250, 1200, 982, 782, 149, 149, 149, 128, 128, 123, 100, 100. Also a 1310, 1500, and 2 1600 IHC trucks.
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Old 03-31-2009, 03:39 PM
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Eagle Keeper Eagle Keeper is offline
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Even though you may have voltage at the coil + post ,,,you may have high resistance and not allowing high current flow.Clean the terminal and do a resistance check of the wire. Remove the spark plug, ground it to the head and see if you have a good hot spark when the engine is turned over. As far as the bypass valves leaking. This is common. The "O" rings get brittle and start to bypass fluid. You can take some aviation skydrol and apply a few drops to the poppet , depress it a few times then let it sit for a day. The skydrol will swell the "O" rings and buy you some time.. Do not get the skydrol on your skin and never get it near your eyes. Acetone , mixed with brake fluid will work almost as well. Keep us up to date on the ignition problem.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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