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  #21  
Old 12-02-2017, 08:52 PM
cubchub cubchub is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: PA
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Default ross

my ford lgt165 has a ross box in it also. It looked good when I tore it apart.
greased it and adjusted it and its still sloppy. I noticed the box assembly was flexing when turning the wheel. Welded in a extra brace and it helped some.
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  #22  
Old 12-02-2017, 08:58 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by brudder View Post
So I went to put this back together today. I noticed the grease is bridging in the box. I used a regular multipurpose #2 lithium grease. I don't think this will work.

I saw some guys use JD corn header grease. I was worried that was going to be too thin because the box isn't really sealed. I think the corn header grease is just a #0 grease. Is that what I need or do I just have crappy grease?
There is a grease zerk on the gearbox, so regular gun grease will be fine. I don't know what exactly it is you used, but any grease will bridge. Except the cornhead grease, but that would drip out and make a mess. I'd say, put more in it. But I also would use whatever grease you use in your grease gun, so that when you grease it every 25 or so hours of use, it gets the same grease.
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  #23  
Old 12-04-2017, 11:39 PM
brudder brudder is offline
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I wanted to provide a final update on this. I pumped this full of grease as Jonathan recommended and put it back together. I adjusted best I can. It's definitely better than it was but still has more slop than I was expecting. I've got another one of these I need to do in the future on a tractor with 1800 hours, so I will plan on buying a new pin and see how tight that gets. I think there is probably just more slop than I was expecting, even when adjusted properly.

While I had the box off, I also cleaned up the CV joint that connects the upper and lower steering and regreased it. I also replaced the o-ring because it was crushed by the factory. This re-packing is recommended by other members in other threads because that joint doesn't have a zerk. The factory grease was like peanut butter but there is not a lot of stress or heat on it so it was just fine. One interesting thing was that I only had two of the four ball bearings inside. I thought someone had been in there and took two out, but then I looked at the parts diagram and they only use two from the factory. Since it looked like new, I left as is with just the two bearings.

Thanks all who helped me in this thread.
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  #24  
Old 12-05-2017, 07:44 AM
Merk Merk is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
There is a grease zerk on the gearbox, so regular gun grease will be fine. I don't know what exactly it is you used, but any grease will bridge. Except the cornhead grease, but that would drip out and make a mess. I'd say, put more in it. But I also would use whatever grease you use in your grease gun, so that when you grease it every 25 or so hours of use, it gets the same grease.
I use corn head grease for years. no drips or leaks.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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