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  #11  
Old 11-02-2017, 09:43 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Be sure to use new stover nuts in your installation whichever route you choose.
Fastenal calls them toplock nuts.
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  #12  
Old 11-04-2017, 11:28 AM
bkw3614 bkw3614 is offline
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I agree with the others; your engine mounts should be replaced.

I think you would be best served by pulling the engine, and making the suggested engine cradle modification as described here: http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html.

I do differ with those who suggest solid engine mounts. Solids work, but offer little in the ability to absorb vibration. My suggestion to you is to spend the money for the genuine Cub Cadet ISO mounts. Then, when you install the Cub Cadet mounts, replace the bolts with a good quality grade 8 bolt and locking nut of the correct size. Use the washers provided in the kit. Install the nuts with about two threads showing. Then, run the tractor and tighten them to correct the vibration issue. It takes some time and patience to correctly set the ISO mounts.

You might want to consider replacing the flex joints on the drive shaft at this time.

It takes time, patience, and a lot of trial and error to get the mounts adjusted. In my mind, it is worth the effort. I did this with my 1250, and it was well worth the effort. I have a nice, smooth-running tractor because of it.

Quietlines are great tractors! Good luck with your project.
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  #13  
Old 11-08-2017, 12:52 PM
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vr4Legacy vr4Legacy is offline
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They can be replaced without pulling the engine. Removing the grille/hood helps a lot. I used open end wrenches on the top of the bolts and let them push against the engine/frame, then used a socket from below. It's a bit tricky getting the ones near the front QA lever out, but it can be done with the engine in. Then just us a pry bar to lift the engine enough to slide them out, and the new ones in.

Having said all of this, you really want to pull the engine and do the cradle mod if you are able. And it's MUCH easier to replace the mounts once the engine is out. But if all you're looking to do is replace the mounts, the engine can stay in.

And x100 on the solid mounts from Jeff if you go that route. Great craftsmanship. Personally, my solid mounted 1200 fells much smoother than my 149. Maybe it's not as smooth as a QL was in 1976, but I don't find it rattles too much. And I guarantee solid mounts will be a whole lot smoother than what you have now.
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Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #14  
Old 11-08-2017, 01:02 PM
mikeangelini mikeangelini is offline
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Thanks again. Trying to find the time to get to it.
I really want to do the cradle mod and put in new mounts, but not sure when I’ll Find the time.
I looked again, and the front mounts are there and perfect top and bottom.
The rear ones are good on top and gone on bottom.
I used to mow an hour a week with this machine, and I wonder how long it’s been like that.

If I could just do the bottom rear mounts, it might buy me a long time.
I don’t mow with it anymore.
Just use it to pull a small trailer and a leaf moving contraption I built out a couple sheets of plywood, a tarp and some lawn mower wheels.
Need to drag that around soon. Without it, I would have to fill trash cans, and that takes days!
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  #15  
Old 11-08-2017, 01:23 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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With the fronts being good and the rears squashed, that's going to throw your driveline out of alignment and that's not good for anything but asking for more problems down the road.
Personally, my 1450 w/new OEM mounts a couple years ago, is my main Tiller rig and one of the smoothest running QL's I have in the fleet.
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  #16  
Old 11-08-2017, 01:46 PM
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vr4Legacy vr4Legacy is offline
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For a temp solution, you could put the tops of your rear mounts on the bottom. That would at least lift it up and align it better. You can then get cheap bushings from an auto parts store for the top, if the bottom spacers won't work.
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Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #17  
Old 11-08-2017, 05:15 PM
mikeangelini mikeangelini is offline
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That could work. I think its Moog k5252.$9 at the local auto parts store.

I wonder it I will be able to get the top mounts out (while trying to leave engine in) with the bolts facing down. I think the bolts are in upside down.
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  #18  
Old 11-08-2017, 05:41 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vr4Legacy View Post
They can be replaced without pulling the engine. Removing the grille/hood helps a lot. I used open end wrenches on the top of the bolts and let them push against the engine/frame, then used a socket from below. It's a bit tricky getting the ones near the front QA lever out, but it can be done with the engine in. Then just us a pry bar to lift the engine enough to slide them out, and the new ones in.
I agree with Jason. Don't have to pull the engine. He uses an open end wrench on the top, I use a crows foot wrench, no extension or ratchet.

I'd order a couple of new mounts from;

http://ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html

3/4 of the way down the page,

CUB CADET Quiet Line ISO Motor/Engine Mount Kit Per Set PN/ IH-61509-C2 Use 759-3952

and just do the rears for now.

Good luck with your project.
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  #19  
Old 11-09-2017, 05:05 AM
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jsoluna jsoluna is offline
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For a hydro driven QuietLine, I also recommend the Cub replacement mounts. They aren't cheap, but they work well. As mentioned before, there is a "dialing it in" process to them, but once that is done you will be happy with how little the tractor vibrates. I imagine they were super smooth from the factory with the original IH mounts.
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