H-42 U-joint - Page 2

Redblower · #11 10-10-2016, 08:10 PM

I now have the spicer catalog thanks to Sam, so think I know the direction to go from here but a couple more questions;

1st - does anyone have a pic of what this is supposed to look like,

2nd - also it looks like maximum rpm is important, does anyone know what the rpm at that shaft is? If I remember correctly the engine is supposed to be doing 3000 to 3500 rpm for maximum blower operation but I doubt if that correlates to this shaft rpm?

Thank you in advance for any input you might have.
Vic

J-Mech · #12 10-19-2016, 11:11 PM

Vic, are you getting anywhere on this?

Redblower · #13 10-23-2016, 10:01 PM

Not really Jonathan, have had a hard time getting the time to look into it.
I need to go back to the parts store this week with dims and see if they can get a u-joint to fit, it's 2" across from cap to cap o.d. and 9/16" dia on the caps, measured with a tape measure. I'm thinking if they can get something that seems like it will work I will attempt to cut the one in it out to replace, any thoughts?
Other wise the next idea would be to find a whole slip shaft assembly with the right shaft dims.
Thanks,
Vic

J-Mech · #14 10-23-2016, 11:30 PM

Vic,
In the years I was in business, I developed a friendship with gent from Indiana who had a transmission shop. He also built drivelines. I took him a shaft off of the QA snowthrowers and had him put together a build sheet for it. I had planned to have him make up some for the purpose of resale/exchange for people who didn't have the "know how" or the time to do it themselves, or in the even that whole shaft replacement was necessary. I do not know off the top of my head if the Haban blowers use the same shaft dim's but I can see just by looking it is close. If you need help, let me know. Even if you had to ship the shaft so it could be copied and rebuilt using standard industry parts, I don't think it would be very costly. Let me know if you need help. I would be willing to handle it for you, or put you in contact with my friend.

Redblower · #15 10-24-2016, 08:09 PM

Jonathan,
That certainly sounds like an option, do you think it is an option to cut these out and find u-joints that will fit, if so my first question is how would I keep the caps in since there isn't a place for clips?
Which leads me to believe what you are trying to tell me is that these are non-industry standard parts and it will be easiest / better to replace.
What would you suggest, contact your friend? I can get good dims with calipers or like you say send it off.
Thanks!
Vic

J-Mech · #16 10-24-2016, 10:41 PM

I really think you can just cut that old one out and find a cross to replace it. Looks like the yoke's are standard. Don't worry about not having a snap ring groove in the yoke. There are different styles of u-joint cross's. This yoke will take a style that uses a snap ring on the cross cap on the inside of the joint. Ican't really explain it.... But anyone who know's anything about u-joints at a part store will know. That's the route I would go if it was mine. If you can't find one to fit, then yeah, I'd make a new one. But, I'm a little different case, as I've built lots and lots of driveline and PTO shafts over the years. If I couldn't do it myself, I had my friend who could.

Redblower · #17 10-25-2016, 07:26 PM

I will try to cut it out and take it to a good parts store, I'm sure I can do it, I've done worse, but really helps to have a little reinforcement from those that do this a lot more than I do.
Thanks Jonathan, I will let you know how I come out or if I need more help.l
Vic

RustyYellow · #18 10-27-2016, 06:01 PM

If this joint doesn't have a snap ring on underside of bearing cups, then I think these are the old style of press fit caps.

Some old and now especially the new(throwaway) machinery have 1-time usage parts and if any one part went bad you had to replace the whole assembly, OR you got parts from salvage and made a Frankenstein assembly work. Which sometimes worked out better because you can hand select the parts for future replacement of ease/maintenance and easier to get.

J-Mech · #19 10-27-2016, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyYellow

If this joint doesn't have a snap ring on underside of bearing cups, then I think these are the old style of press fit caps.

Mr. Yellow, I believe you need to look at the pics again. There is no room on that style of cross for snap rings on the caps. We have already established that it has pressed on caps.

It's not really an old design either by any means. GM still uses pressed in caps with plastic injected into the yoke to hold it together. To disassemble, you heat the yoke and the plastic oozes out. Replace with a cross with a snap ring. Very common. Also, I wouldn't call it a "one time use". Non-greasable u-joints are also very common. It may even have needle bearing caps. Could also have oil-impregnated brass bushings in the caps....

Redblower · #20 10-29-2016, 01:31 PM

I got it cut apart today, no biggie, so that big center piece had a hole clear thru in one direction, that was for the pin for that cross ends but nothing to indicate that on the outside which cap ends that pin aligned with, and one cap would have to come out to be able to drive the pin out the opposite way, so I can see how it was installed but can't figure how they expected you to replace it?
Oh and one cap did not have needle bearings in it anymore, hence the slop in the system, all others did have the needle bearings.
Now it's off to the parts store to find a cross!
Vic