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  #11  
Old 04-24-2016, 09:23 AM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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A bit of an update, I installed the rebuilt carb yesterday as well as fixed a few wire splices that were done with those stupid connectors that you snap over the wire and it cuts into the insulation to make contact. Running much better now but it's much harder to start for some reason, used to start as soon as you hit the key but it needs to wind up for a while now before it fires.

One thing I did notice as far as the engine goes is the numbers are just stamped on the sheet metal covers so it is still possible that the engine was changed prior to my Mom buying it. I took the side covers off so that I could clean the engine up a bit but couldn't see anything stamped on the block to get any sort of date code. Heading out now to weld the cross brace on the mule drive and install the deck.
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  #12  
Old 04-24-2016, 01:22 PM
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Maybe richen the bottom needle slightly to help the fast start.
Glad you decided to fix it
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  #13  
Old 04-24-2016, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerkin View Post
A bit of an update, I installed the rebuilt carb yesterday as well as fixed a few wire splices that were done with those stupid connectors that you snap over the wire and it cuts into the insulation to make contact. Running much better now but it's much harder to start for some reason, used to start as soon as you hit the key but it needs to wind up for a while now before it fires.

One thing I did notice as far as the engine goes is the numbers are just stamped on the sheet metal covers so it is still possible that the engine was changed prior to my Mom buying it. I took the side covers off so that I could clean the engine up a bit but couldn't see anything stamped on the block to get any sort of date code. Heading out now to weld the cross brace on the mule drive and install the deck.


I assume your choking it? Sounds like it isn't getting fuel right away, or it's just a bit lean. Maybe I missed it, but did you rebuild the fuel pump? It's possible that one of the little flapper reed valves isn't sealing yet. Give it some time to "work" in.

The numbers for a B&S should be just stamped into the cover.... They always are.

Glad you got it fixed, and you decided to keep it.
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"They say money doesn't buy happiness....... but it does buy Cub Cadets, and Cub Cadets make me VERY happy!"

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  #14  
Old 04-25-2016, 10:05 AM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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I didn't mess with the needles, just replaced them with the new ones in the kit. They are both at the bottom of the carb, one under the fuel pump and one just off to the side. One was 1 1/2 turns out and the other 2 1/2 turns. I wasn't sure what either of them was for so I just put the new ones to the same settings. I'm more of a quad guy, one needle raises the slide which raises the idle and the other is an air screw to adjust air intake. I've cleaned, rebuilt, jetted and adjusted dozens of those over the years but have never done anything but rebuild a few tractor carbs over the years, I hate messing with those stupid governors, lol.

I did rebuild the fuel pump, kind of a pain trying to get it back together with those tiny springs, two different diaphrams, etc. I was wondering if one of those springs fell out of place or something when I put it together. The carb is low enough that the fuel flows freely even without the fuel pump so I don't know if it would run without the fuel pump working or not, probably not. Hopefully it's just one of those flaps sticking like you said. I have noticed that the throttle is a little different now, you have to raise it a bit further before it starts raising the engine speed. That could be anything though. Appreciate the help guys.
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  #15  
Old 04-25-2016, 11:59 AM
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If you've messed with that many carbs, then I would have thought you would know you can't just change a needle out with a new one and expect it to run right. You have to readjust the carb. Come on, it's not that difficult.... if you really have rebuilt, jetted and adjusted carbs before.

You had the carb off, you need to readjust the governor also. That is likely why the throttle responds differently.
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Runners: 1050, 1811, 185LB
On the "back burner": 2-71's, 1250DS, 1000, 582, 682
Deere: 317 with tiller, 318.
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  #16  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:13 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
If you've messed with that many carbs, then I would have thought you would know you can't just change a needle out with a new one and expect it to run right. You have to readjust the carb. Come on, it's not that difficult.... if you really have rebuilt, jetted and adjusted carbs before.

You had the carb off, you need to readjust the governor also. That is likely why the throttle responds differently.
I'm not sure why you would think I lied about doing carb work and don't know why I feel the need to prove myself but here, look at this thread and note the username: http://forums.everything2stroke.com/...eaning-rebuild It's safe, just a dirt bike/quad site that I wrote a sticky for.

I haven't found a manual online for this engine yet and I'm not going to go messing with the screws until I at least understand what they do. As for the governor I didn't realize you had to readjust it just because you removed the carburetor and again, without a manual, I'm sort of screwed.

It runs fine at the original settings, it's just the starting issue and it may be what you said earlier about needing to break in a little because it fired right up this morning. I'd still like to find a manual though and adjust that governor.
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  #17  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:20 PM
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there's only 3 screws. hi speed , lo speed and the idle speed setting screw. you are not working with a fixed jet carb.
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  #18  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:22 PM
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http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/co...20STRATTON.pdf
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  #19  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:36 PM
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Here is the link for the 82 series tractors.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=13226

Glad you got it running. As Jon said the Governor should be readjusted after you have had the carb off. In all honesty I've had a bunch on and off and never bothered. The slow and high speed jets are simple you turn them in till you get the highest speed then back them out just a touch and you'll be close enough to mow grass. If you looking for the ultimate tune for max power well maybe not so much.
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  #20  
Old 04-25-2016, 10:04 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvogtvpe View Post
there's only 3 screws. hi speed , lo speed and the idle speed setting screw. you are not working with a fixed jet carb.
Yes, I realize what I am working on, lol. My problem was not having a manual to tell me which screw is which. You fixed that problem though! Thanks man, the manual is great. Reading up on the adjustments now.
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