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  #11  
Old 08-03-2014, 09:03 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merk View Post
I have a list to compare prices.

Bushing-3 pin driver
Cub Cadet-$5.58
McMaster-Carr-$3.22
Cub Cadet Classics-$5.50
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$3.00

Teaser Spring
Cub Cadet-$4.33
Midwest Super Cub-$5.18
Cub Cadet Classics-$3.75
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$5.00

Throwout Bearing
Cub Cadet-$55.58
Midwest Super Cub-$55.00
Zach Kerber Machine & Design-$25.50-See note A
Patton Acres-$28.70

Clutch Disc
Cub Cadet-$48.97
Cub Cadet Classics-$45.00
Midwest Super Cub-$37.85-See note B
Patton Acres-$29.00
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$40.00

Narrow Frame Clutch Pedal Return Spring
Cub Cadet Classics-$5.50
Patton Acres-$8.00-See note C
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$5.00
Cub Cadet-$6.31

Drive Shaft
Patton Acres-$48.20
Midwest Super Cub-$30.00-See note D
Zach Kerber Machine & Design-$25.00-See note E
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-See note F

Split Collar
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$3.00
McMaster-Carr-$5.15

Clutch Pressure Spring
Cub Cadet Classics-$26.00-See Note G
Cub Cadet-$25.56-See Note H

Clutch Pedal Return Spring
Cub Cadet-$6.31

Note A-Bearing has a longer sleeve. Will need to use a 2 piece collar
Note B-Kevlar/Fiberglass material
Note C-Used spring
Note D-4140 Material-No hole behind spring
Note E-4140 Material-No holes behind spring and coupler
Note F-1144 Material -$45.00 304 Stainless Steel-$30.00
Note G-Blue Spring-550-600 pound pressure
Note H-Stock Spring-250-300 pound pressure

Time to order parts
I miss one.....Parts by Jeff has a 4140 drilled driveshaft for $27 plus shipping.

Sorry Jeff
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  #12  
Old 09-10-2014, 07:55 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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It has been more than a month. I had all the parts I needed to rebuild the clutch 3-4 weeks ago.......didn't have time plus I needed to weld the nuts to the inside of the 100 frame.

Here are the parts that will be used to rebuild the clutch:


First thing that needs done is to replace the pins and bushing in the 3 pin driver.
Pins

Bushing


Reinstalling bushing:

pins:


3 pin driver is ready to install.
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  #13  
Old 09-10-2014, 08:12 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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I like to take the 3 pin driver and slide it over the driveshaft to make sure it turns freely.


I aslo take the clutch disc and slide it over the 3 pin driver too.
I like to use brake clean to remove oil from clutch disc and pressure plates.



The first thing I like to do is install the pin that holds the pressure plate hub.


Next thing to make sure the pressure plate hub slides over the pin.
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  #14  
Old 09-10-2014, 08:22 PM
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Right side is ok.


Left side has a burr.




The hub had a burr on the one side where the pin goes.

The pressure plate hub now slides over the pin.


The pressure plate hub goes on the driveshaft.


Next is the clutch friction disc.


Next is the locating pressure assembly and drive pin into place.
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  #15  
Old 09-10-2014, 08:33 PM
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I will install the 3 pin driver to drive shaft to check if everything spins freely.


Plus it centers the friction disc.

I will check the clutch lever for wear.

The shinny spots are where the throw out bearing rides.

The clutch lever and compression (teaser) are next to be installed.


Throw out bearing goes on next.
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  #16  
Old 09-10-2014, 09:06 PM
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There are several different compression springs that you can use in your Cub Cadet clutch. Cub Cadet Classics has a blue spring that has 500 to 600 pound rating. The red spring has a 800 pound rating. The yellow spring has a 1120 pound rating. The stock spring has 225 to 250 pound rating. I set my clutches so my Wife and grand kids can push the clutch in. The red spring is too much and the stock spring isn't strong enough. I found on a tractor pull site this spring that has a 500 rating. It was before the blue spring was found plus it is cheaper. The spring is half a field cultivator spring. One problem with this spring is the inside diameter is too big. I use a piece of pipe as a spacer with this spring.

My IH Cub Cadet 100 has this spring set up in for the last 3 years with no problems.

Install the spacer on drive shaft.


Washer is first them the spring.


Next is a washer and 2 split collars.


Some may be asking why I use split collars instead of the pin that cub Cadet used. The hole in the drive shaft is a weak spot. I'm trying to eliminate weak areas.

Next the clutch assembly goes in my clutch spring compressor.

The clutch spring is compress to the same spot where the pin thru the driveshaft location was.

Both collars are tighten.

The second collar is more for insurance so the they don't slip on the drive shaft.
Hopefully everyone notice the safety pin in my clutch spring compressor. there is plenty of stored energy in that drive shaft.

This picture shows the spring that holds the clutch pedal up.

It was missing.

Clutch is installed back in the 100.
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  #17  
Old 09-10-2014, 09:21 PM
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This was the main reason why the work to the 100 was done.


The 2 nuts were welded to the inside of the frame. I have several different attachments that mount where the mule drive connects. I purchase these from Jeff in Pa.

It makes mounting attachments to the 100 much easier. ( Thanks Jeff!!!)
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  #18  
Old 09-10-2014, 09:26 PM
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The material that the driveshaft is made out of 4140 material.
The clutch is a Kevlar/fiberglass composite material.

This sounds overkill for a 10 horse power Cub Cadet. The plans are to increase the horse power next year.

I hope I was able to show you the way I been building clutches. There are different ways to build one. This set up works for me.

You will have a few more parts if you are working on a wide frame clutch. Keep track of where they go.
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  #19  
Old 09-10-2014, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garnold View Post
Wonderful write up! I found a guy on Facebook that sells a jig like you built for us non welders I really like that split collar idea. I have to rebuild a clutch soon. Might just order the shaft from Jeff without that hole drilled Thank you again!
Thanks

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  #20  
Old 09-11-2014, 06:42 PM
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I found the part number(s) for the spring I used.
500 pound clutch spring
PECP1511A1 (New Holland)
EP1511 (AGCO)

You can go to a New Holland or AGCO dealer to see if they have the part or they should be able to order one.

The spring needs to be cut in 2.
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