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  #1  
Old 07-29-2014, 09:48 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Default Clutch Rebuild-Manual Transmission

I purchase a 100 with a 42 inch mower deck and front blade at an auction in the fall of 2012.








This 100 is one of the quickest starting garden tractors I've own. When you tried to engage the mower it acted like something was in a bind and not letting the mower blades spin. The problem ended up being the pulley was against the mule drive. The welded nut inside the frame was missing and the mule drive was bent. Only way to fix it was to remove the engine. The clutch between the engine and trans was acting up too (someone installed a wide frame clutch). While I need to remove the engine to weld the nut back on I will fix the clutch too. Removing the clutch is easy to do if you follow your repair instructions in your Cub Cadet manual.

I had an extra narrow frame clutch to use.
Narrow Frame Clutch Assembly:


I wanted to take clutch assembly apart to make sure everything was ok.
Here are the special tools I use to disassemble/assemble a clutch assembly:

First thing I notice the throw out bearing was froze up.

One of the first things I do is to remove coupler joint between the trans and driveshaft. I use my V-block to hold the clutch and hang the clutch disk over the edge:


I use a special pin punch to drive the spiroid pin out.

Notice the pin is over the edge so it has a place for the pin to go.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:06 PM
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Notice the location of the pin in relation to the V-block:


Next to removed is the pin holding the spring in place:


The bolt in the picture is an important safety feature that is a must if you use a jig like this one:


Pin out:


Here are some of the tools I use and the spring:


The next I like to do is remove the pin(s) that hold the pressure plates on the driveshaft. I will turn the clutch assembly end for end to use my jig to remove the pins.


Closer view:


Front pin being removed:
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:15 PM
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Clutch assembly is apart. Here is what the clutch disc looks like:

The pile to the right of the clutch disc is part of the clutch disc.

Pressure plates:


Release arm:

You need to look for excessive wear where my finger is pointing to:

This release arm is in good shape.

The area where my finger is pointing to is where the throw out bearing goes.


The driveshaft needs replace. Tomorrow we will make a list of parts that need replace.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:51 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
by rwairforce

Excellent tutorial. Thanks for sharing. Pictures are a powerful teaching aid. Those jigs certainly look helpful.

How did you identify it as a wide frame clutch?
The clutch assembly had a spacer (Item 20 in below link) in it. Narrow frame clutch assembly doesn't have the spacer. The spacer moves the throw out bearing back some making harder if not possible to adjust correctly.
http://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/s...0-A/0020000012
Picture of area in question:



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Old 07-31-2014, 10:07 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwairforce View Post
Cool, thanks again.
I see that you're in Ohio as well. It would probably be easier for me just to let you do my clutch for me when/if I need it. LOL!
My plans are to rebuild engines and clutches for the earlier IH Cub Cadets sometime in the future. Right now I'm having problems finding free time to work on my on Cub Cadets.

One of the main reasons for this thread is to show how easy it can be to rebuild a clutch.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvogtvpe View Post
nicely done MERK , I've seen a few guys make up a tool sort of like you have. not everyone has a press at home and even if you do setup time can take a while. that's what a forum is for.
Thanks DVOGTVPE

I'm not a big fan of using a press. The tools I use can be taking to an event much easier than a press.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:29 PM
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The last item I check out is the 3 pin driver.


The picture shows the wear on the pins. Worn pin(s) will make the holes in the clutch disc go oversize and the pins could shear off. It will make the clutch go out of balance and the tractor will have the shakes.

I will replace the bushing in the 3 pin driver too.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:41 PM
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Parts that are needed to rebuild the clutch assembly

bushing-3 pin driver
3/8 X 1 1/2 steel coiled springs pin (need 3)
clutch disc
true pressure plates
teaser spring
throw Out bearing
drive shaft
5/16 X 1 1/4 steel coiled springs pin (need 3)
5/8 diameter clamp on shaft collar-I do not like to use a steel coiled spring pin in any drive shaft I rebuild. It leaves a weak point in the drive shaft.

Time to do some shopping
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  #9  
Old 08-02-2014, 11:20 PM
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I have a list to compare prices.

Bushing-3 pin driver
Cub Cadet-$5.58
McMaster-Carr-$3.22
Cub Cadet Classics-$5.50
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$3.00

Teaser Spring
Cub Cadet-$4.33
Midwest Super Cub-$5.18
Cub Cadet Classics-$3.75
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$5.00

Throwout Bearing
Cub Cadet-$55.58
Midwest Super Cub-$55.00
Zach Kerber Machine & Design-$25.50-See note A
Patton Acres-$28.70

Clutch Disc
Cub Cadet-$48.97
Cub Cadet Classics-$45.00
Midwest Super Cub-$37.85-See note B
Patton Acres-$29.00
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$40.00

Narrow Frame Clutch Pedal Return Spring
Cub Cadet Classics-$5.50
Patton Acres-$8.00-See note C
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$5.00
Cub Cadet-$6.31

Drive Shaft
Patton Acres-$48.20
Midwest Super Cub-$30.00-See note D
Zach Kerber Machine & Design-$25.00-See note E
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-See note F

Split Collar
Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$3.00
McMaster-Carr-$5.15

Clutch Pressure Spring
Cub Cadet Classics-$26.00-See Note G
Cub Cadet-$25.56-See Note H

Clutch Pedal Return Spring
Cub Cadet-$6.31

Note A-Bearing has a longer sleeve. Will need to use a 2 piece collar
Note B-Kevlar/Fiberglass material
Note C-Used spring
Note D-4140 Material-No hole behind spring
Note E-4140 Material-No holes behind spring and coupler
Note F-1144 Material -$45.00 304 Stainless Steel-$30.00
Note G-Blue Spring-550-600 pound pressure
Note H-Stock Spring-250-300 pound pressure

Time to order parts
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Old 08-03-2014, 01:03 PM
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Parts I ordered are:

McMaster-
bushing-3 pin driver
3/8 X 1 1/2 steel coiled springs pin (need 3)
1/4 X 1 1/2 steel coiled springs pin (need 3)
5/8 diameter clamp on shaft collar

H.G. Violet-(local Cub Cadet dealer)
teaser spring
throw Out bearing
Narrow Frame Clutch Pedal Return Spring

Midwest Super cub
clutch disc
drive shaft

I true pressure plates on My Father lathe.
Parts from Midwest Super Cub and McMaster were ordered today. The parts from H.G. Violet will ordered Monday morning.
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