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Old 04-25-2015, 06:40 PM
jimbob200521's Avatar
jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sterling, IL
Posts: 3,581
Default How to: Install Starter/Solenoid Relay for Kohler Commands

Have a Kohler Command in your 1864, 2084, 2284, etc? Ever get the random "click" when you try to start it? Then this article is for you!

Brief History/Explanation

This issue can be caused by several things. First, our machines are now getting 20+ years old and through time, nature has taken its course. Connections weaken, corrosion occurs, and weak signal become present. Multiplied by the fact that our Cyclops Cubs have many safety switches between you turning the key and the tractor starting, this issue is often amplified. Also making this issue worse is a weak battery or a battery in the dead of winter not giving you its full 12.2+ volts. What happens is when you turn the key switch, the signal must travel from your key switch through several (often corroded) safety switches, many feet of wire, and finally to your starter/solenoid. This requires your battery to be at its best, which often times it may not be. By the time the voltage gets to your solenoid, it may only be 11 or even 10 volts, not always enough to do the trick. Installing this relay takes the load off of your key switch and gets you better starting capability.

Parts & Tools Required

This is a very simple procedure to install, and as such, you don't need many tools. I used the following:

Relay kit MM510 from Farm & Fleet (this also came with all the wiring and fuses I needed)
Socket wrench to connect the ground
Socket wrench to connect the positive to the battery
Wire strippers

How to

Let's get down to it. First off, I want to show you a picture of the kit I purchased. This rang in at the grand price of $8.99 + tax, so not exactly a bank breaker.



Next, a picture of how this is wired up. This is fairly simple so make sure to read it and read it again so no wires get crossed. Crossed wires are a big no no! Also, please note: I color coded this diagram to the wires I chose to use. If you want to use different wires, a different fuse, different colors, whatever, feel free. This is just what I used.



Open the kit and familiarize yourself with what's included. There are a few parts not needed (wires and the switch) so toss those in your "I'll use these later...for...something" box that we all know we have.

First, safety: Disconnect your battery so we don't have any unwanted sparks.

Next, I started by mounting the relay to the blower shroud and running the ground (yellow in my case) back to the mounting screw. Simple and clean. One down, 3 to go.

Remove the blue wire from your solenoid and connect it to the 86 connector on the relay. 2 down, 2 to go.

Run a wire (I used green) from 87 to the connector on the solenoid you just removed. 1 more to go.

Now run a FUSED wire from 30 to a constant 12v. I used the included 15 amp fuse.

Now, double and triple check your wires and when you are comfortable with the connections, reconnect your battery. Take a seat and turn your key switch to a now click free engine.

I'll post a couple pics of my setup installed. I hope this is able to help some guys out there with this issue, I know I'm happy with the $10 and 20 minutes spent doing this. Enjoy guys!







__________________
-Ryan

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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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