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  #11  
Old 02-24-2010, 07:10 PM
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T-Mo T-Mo is offline
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Merk,
I wonder about the strength of the lift tab. Having it welded to just the tube didn't seem to be to strong, so I was considering strengthening that area anyways. Thanks for the suggestion.
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  #12  
Old 02-25-2010, 08:41 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Looking good! Looking forward to the final draft so I can get one built!


Thank you!
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  #13  
Old 02-26-2010, 10:54 AM
rwire125 rwire125 is offline
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looks great but do you really need the inside ones to go all the way back
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  #14  
Old 02-26-2010, 12:48 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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I hafta agree with rwire125 about the inner straps not needing to go all the way to the back.

But I really think that Diz Jr. has already built the ultimate adapter.






Here is the thread,

http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showt...p?t=414&page=2

From that, weld on short straps toward the front of the "X" to go on the inside of your lower bracket.
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  #15  
Old 02-26-2010, 10:49 PM
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T-Mo T-Mo is offline
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No, they don't need to go all the way back, but there has to be some cross brace or space so they can be welded.

That X-design is probably an overkill, but it would be effective. One thing you have to be sure you nailed the over width dimension as that design won't have any give to it. It would be strong.

One thing I would do with that design is nixed the X and have one brace running horizontal across tying both yokes together and then having it welded to the lift tab strengthening it...... it does give me ideas.
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2010, 10:15 AM
rwire125 rwire125 is offline
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the only thing i see wrong with the X is it looks like he started out with an org Brinly hitch insted of fabing the whole hitch but def looks strong. to make yourself square is the easyest way to go welding one up. and T-MO think you could just make a spacer to weld on the inside the run another peace back to double the pivit area just a thought, and ill prob use your plans when i do mine, good work bruder
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2010, 03:45 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
by rwire125
the only thing i see wrong with the X is it looks like he started out with an org Brinly hitch insted of fabing the whole hitch but def looks strong. to make yourself square is the easyest way to go welding one up. and T-MO think you could just make a spacer to weld on the inside the run another peace back to double the pivit area just a thought, and ill prob use your plans when i do mine, good work bruder
The hitch was not made by Brinly. Not sure who made it. Here is a hitch that came on Orginals:


Hitch that came on 70/100s and some later narrow frame Cubs:


Current style from Brinly:



I don't like the 90 degree corners. The 90 degree corner style hitch will be the easiest to catch trash when plowing. I have feeling that is one of the reasons why Brinly change their hitch. The second pictire Yosemite Sam posted is on of the better designs I've seen.
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  #18  
Old 02-28-2010, 05:34 PM
Duncan10072 Duncan10072 is offline
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Merk, any chance that I could get the measurements of the lift straps? I have the same hitch for my CCO, but I need to make the lift straps. I know they are shorter than the wide frames, I just don't know how much. Thanks for your help
Rod
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2010, 06:29 PM
rwire125 rwire125 is offline
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I don't like the 90 degree corners. The 90 degree corner style hitch will be the easiest to catch trash when plowing. I have feeling that is one of the reasons why Brinly change their hitch.



MERK
I really dont see what diff the 90 corner makes in that reguard
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  #20  
Old 02-28-2010, 08:37 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
by rwire125
MERK
I really dont see what diff the 90 corner makes in that reguard
You haven't done very much plowing with a moldboard plow?
Sometimes the trash on the surface likes to bunch up when plowing. Anything like a 90 degree sleeve hitch adapter can and will catch the trash. Then you will have to stop and unplug the plow.
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