Stripping using electrolysis

jmichielsen · #1 08-04-2011, 11:15 PM

Alright. I have read some on this process of electrolysis. Sounds very interesting. I have many things I can strip. I have a car starter/booster/charger I can use for the power. I hope to be getting a barrel soon. But, am thinking of finding soething larger that can handle older GT tractor frames in. What do you use for your tank and why? What do you use for the solution and how much (why) and looking for some after shots of the process. I wondering how well a 110G tank or 250G tank would do. How about hooking up a drain on it when one wants to change the water. Another very important question for me. Can this be used in lower teperatures. Want to use it in my barn durring the winter if I can. Wont be heated all of the time. Only when I go out there and light a fire in the wood stove. What aps works best on what kinds of metal. I have already heard DONT use aluinu in it! Any other things to throw caution to? Thanks.

nikster · #2 08-05-2011, 04:49 AM

I am using 'Drain Cleaner w/Lye', 1tbs. for 1gal-water., a $6.99 40gal. trash bucket from Ace hardware.

The nose from my #122 has been in there for 48hrs. & gonna need another day or 2?

I slapped on some paint stripper prior to the dunk. Works better.

I'll post a pic this weekend.

Nik

gcbailey · #3 08-05-2011, 06:59 AM

I use arm & hammer washing powder, my biggest tub I have currently available is a 30 gallon rubbermaid. I've got a selectable battery charger that goes 2-60amps / 6-12V. You do need to adjust the amount of sodium carbonate vs. the amount of water. The biggest thing to remember is DON'T use any stainless steel, you could end up killing yourself from the reaction. Temperatures don't really matter either, my garage isn't heated and gets down to around 40 in the winter, I've done it then without any problems.

These links are basically the same, but it may give you an idea on wiring up a larger vat. The last one shows a pretty good sized "tub" with a rubber lining.

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.
http://1bad6t.com/rust_removal.html
http://ct-web2.unh.edu/lee/electrolysis.htm

Matt G. · #4 08-05-2011, 07:55 AM

This process is for cleaning iron and steel only. I have never really changed the water in mine, as the sludge at the bottom is not something you can just dump on the ground because of all of the lead paint and crap that's in there. The best way to dispose of it would be to evaporate all of the water, and then put the solids in a bag to take wherever you dispose of lead paint.

If you use a 55 gallon plastic drum, you can do one end of a frame at a time. It would probably not be a good idea to use it near open flame due the gases being produced, although I have had molten cutting-torch slag go into mine while it was operating, and nothing happened. Whatever you do, don't use a metal tank.

krhoover · #5 08-05-2011, 05:52 PM

I too have a set up using a plastic 55 gal drum. I use soda ash (washing soda) in mine, and it works great. I have put painted parts into it and almost all the paint comes off over night. well adheard paint stays, but any loose or with rust under it comes off. I pressure wash my stuff when it comes out, so that also helps. This may be a hairbrain idea, but I have thought about putting one togather with a 55 gal plastic drrum with a 30 gal steel drum inside of it to act as the sacraficial metal, that way you would have
360' line of site.

I don't know? Buy for those who want to set one up, go for it, they work.

CC1650Dave · #6 08-05-2011, 11:07 PM

I haven't set one up yet, but I have a good friend who's a chemist, and he suggested that I use Trisodium Phosphate over washing soda or lye. He said it would anodize the parts as it removed rust and such.

I still need to get around to setting this thing up. But I've been using this citrus-based solution that's working pretty well, so I haven't been hugely motivated.

I did get a 4.5 lb box of TSP online for $20 with shipping. You can't buy it in MI.

scleve · #7 08-06-2011, 04:37 AM

You need to be careful of the fumes in an enclosed area with whatever you use. The larger the tank, the more reaction to release gases.

nikster · #8 08-06-2011, 06:51 AM

Started using Arm & Hammer, but some-one from this site suggested - Drain Ocleaner with Lye. Much better results from the few X's that I used it. My #122 nose is still cooking away, 4 days.

nikster · #9 08-07-2011, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

I haven't set one up yet, but I have a good friend who's a chemist, and he suggested that I use Trisodium Phosphate over washing soda or lye. He said it would anodize the parts as it removed rust and such.
I still need to get around to setting this thing up. But I've been using this citrus-based solution that's working pretty well, so I haven't been hugely motivated.
I did get a 4.5 lb box of TSP online for $20 with shipping. You can't buy it in MI.

Trisodium Phosphate?

The stuff is cheap, gonna try it on my next dunk.

Took my nose out & let it dry over night. Shouldn't of let it dry outside. With all the humidity the nose had a dusting of rust all over. Back for another day in the tub. Gonna blow dry it with my leaf blower & paint it pronto.

Nik

gcbailey · #10 08-07-2011, 07:48 AM

ya, if you don't "prep" the stuff pretty much as soon as you get it out, you'll get another coat of surface rust overnight. I usually blow my dry with the air hose, then if I don't plan on painting it ASAP, I'll spray it with a good coat of PBblaster or WD-40, just something to help keep the rust at bay.