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  #11  
Old 11-24-2013, 01:36 AM
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johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
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I got to agree with the group. It matters how you use and store your equipment which will decide the fate of the paint. True, you buy cheep paint, you have cheep results. But the big picture was just that, how you care for your equipment. One thing I don't like about a rattle can is that in my opinion, it is too small to paint the frame, and any other large sheet metal. The can will not lay out and down volume.

Now Merk hit the nail on the head when he said he is hooked on the hvlp gun. I think I would be too. But yet, for some parts of a restoration project, you wont beat the can. I refer to the can as 759-3258 Cub Cadet Yellow for instance, and good can primer. What's more, the brush even commands respect in a restoration. Even in the application field of nooks and crannies can a brush work wonders. Many times, the brush will eliminate a big over spray mess, and fix up chips that occur.

Again, just my opinion. You should visit the OCC Archives Restoration tips forum, check it out!
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2014, 01:54 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I finally was over at my buddies house the other day and thought to snap some pics. I basically built this blade. Only part I used from the original was the moldboard, and the triangle piece that is red (in the center that runs to the pivot). Then I shot it with epoxy primer and acrylic enamel. I used Nason paint. Painted it about 5 years ago. It sits outside all the time, so it's dirty, but not faded. You can see on the moldboard where the paint has finally rubbed off, but for the most part is holding on. It has drug quite a bit of gravel too.

I'll let the pics speak:

IMG_20140809_143919.jpgIMG_20140809_143931.jpg
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2014, 02:14 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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Looks like you did a good job on the blade! I like or prefer using epoxy primer and aycrilic enamel Nason paint too, that's what I use at work .
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2014, 02:16 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by bocephus1991 View Post
Looks like you did a good job on the blade! I like or prefer using epoxy primer and aycrilic enamel Nason paint too, that's what I use at work .
Thanks. It's hell for stout. Got tired of breaking it all the time. I was kinda disappointed that he puts it outside in a fence row. (Guy has a big shed and a lean-to on each side. As if he doesn't have room to put it in out of the weather.)

I bought another blade that I'm going to rebuild like this one. Only this time, the blade will pivot and offset. I want to be able to cut a ditch without having to use the adjusting links on the tractor.
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  #15  
Old 08-12-2014, 10:49 AM
rdehli rdehli is offline
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I got to agree with the group. It matters how you use and store your equipment which will decide the fate of the paint. True, you buy cheep paint, you have cheep results. But the big picture was just that, how you care for your equipment. One thing I don't like about a rattle can is that in my opinion, it is too small to paint the frame, and any other large sheet metal. The can will not lay out and down volume.

Now Merk hit the nail on the head when he said he is hooked on the hvlp gun. I think I would be too. But yet, for some parts of a restoration project, you wont beat the can. I refer to the can as 759-3258 Cub Cadet Yellow for instance, and good can primer. What's more, the brush even commands respect in a restoration. Even in the application field of nooks and crannies can a brush work wonders. Many times, the brush will eliminate a big over spray mess, and fix up chips that occur.

Again, just my opinion. You should visit the OCC Archives Restoration tips forum, check it out!


I totally agree, in a restoration project, use everything available to you. Thereis a place for everything .
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2014, 10:52 AM
rdehli rdehli is offline
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speaking of paint ...has anyone used the Van Sickle 45471 there version of IH Federal yellow...I was told it was a synthetic enamel , whats the difference between that and acrylic enamel ?
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2014, 11:54 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I don't suggest Van Sickle paint. Scroll up and look at the loader pics I posted. That's Van Sickle paint. It takes a year and a day to dry, and fades like paper in the sun.
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:14 PM
rdehli rdehli is offline
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thanks for the info..... think I will stick with IH Federal yellow , I have had great luck with that.
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  #19  
Old 08-12-2014, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdehli View Post
speaking of paint ...has anyone used the Van Sickle 45471 there version of IH Federal yellow...I was told it was a synthetic enamel , whats the difference between that and acrylic enamel ?
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I don't suggest Van Sickle paint. Scroll up and look at the loader pics I posted. That's Van Sickle paint. It takes a year and a day to dry, and fades like paper in the sun.
When you "Google" the Van Sickle paint, not much comes up,,,,,,,,,,,,

I would think it is just some private label typical oil paint.

This probably falls into the "You get what you pay for" category. $33 a gallon is not much to pay for paint.

With the corporate attitude of "Make money, not quality" everywhere, finding quality is tough, so protecting a repainted machine is probably the best way to insure your project stays nice looking.

30 years ago I decided my money was better spent on a better shed rather than better machines.

That has worked out for me, inside stored machines stay nice looking,

MY machines are only outside when being used, PERIOD!!

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