A Tandem Cub

[DoubleO7]

Here ya go, make the bed floor with this and just bolt on sides and front !!!!

https://richmond.craigslist.org/mat/...395583801.html

hahahahaha

[Sam Mac]

This is how I did it on my JD317

[sawdustdad]

Lots of good suggestions. I appreciate all the comments and observations.

Just a couple responses.

The battery is where it is because there is no room for it under the seat due to the rear driveshaft and hydro control linkages that connect the two hydros. Access to a dead battery will be by removing the pivot bolts and lifting the bed, or by pulling a pin that connects the lift cylinder/linear actuator to the bottom of the bed and tilting the bed back manually. The voltage regulator will go under the seat, though.

The lift cylinder could connect to the square tube mounted just above the battery. This is not as low as I'd like, so I may wind up cutting the rear fender in front of the battery box to get it lower.

This proposed location would work with an actuator/cylinder that is 15 or 16 inches long with a 10 inch travel. That will tilt the bed nearly vertical. I've taken those measurements, so I'm confident of these dimensions.

I'm on the fence regarding the lift mechanism. Electric linear actuators (which seem less robust), a ported hydro, or a separate 12v hydraulic power unit. Probably the cleanest install would be a ported hydro.

The hydro ports put out about 600 psi, right? Anybody got a working one they want to part with? Otherwise I'm on ebay for about $100, condition unknown.

A 2 inch lift cylinder would provide plenty of lifting force (~1800 lbs piston force at 600psi) with a lifting force of 300-400 lbs based on the angle of the cylinder. That would handle an evenly distributed payload of 1000 lbs (which, as already noted is impractical anyway).

As for the limited strength of the transverse frame that Jon's noted, I am not planning to cut it apart and substitute square tube at this point, but rather I'm going to sister an additional angle behind the existing one. I'll connect this to the rearmost transverse member as Jon suggested. Once I get it all together and working, I'll either limit the load, reinforce it some more, or put in the square tube as Jon has recommended.

Sam, thanks for the photos.

Pics, as required... how do you get the text above each picture without resorting to a third party hosting site?

Connection point for the lift cylinder above the battery,

Holding an additional angle that will be "sistered" to the existing transverse angle.

Final picture shows the diagonal braces down to the battery box frame from the rearward most crossmember.

[sawdustdad]

Additional bed material options: MDO, fiberglass, titanium. (ok, the last one's a joke.)

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by DoubleO7

Here ya go, make the bed floor with this and just bolt on sides and front !!!!

https://richmond.craigslist.org/mat/...395583801.html

hahahahaha

That's about 60 miles from where I live. At 1.5 inches thick, It would probably limit my payload capacity..

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by DoubleO7

HDPE is very poor structurally especially when warm, like composite deck boards it needs extra support compared to wood.
In order to use it by itself for a dump body, it would be quite expensive.
But it would make for a great dump body liner as it would be slick as snot and you would not have to tilt it as far to dump your load.

If you could find some used aluminum bleacher planks...........you could make a stout box out of them with floor welded to the front and sides etc.

I've used a lot of HDPE (and a similar material, King Starboard) for various things on my boat and in the shop. The feed table for my surface planer is HDPE (edit: actually UHMW), for example. No good way to glue it, it must be fastened mechanically.

If it weren't so expensive, I'd use Starboard, it's stiffer than HDPE, and it comes in an oyster white as well as other colors. Well, I might need to check on the prices again...got me thinking there...

[darkminion_17]

You are the sawdustdad, make it out of wood, make the bed out of exotic wood decking, stuff will never rot.
I used to have a pile of that stuff from a 30x20 deck we torn down, it ended up being re purposed as a dock we built on a lake.

[sawdustdad]

Just ordered enough 1/2 inch Arctic White king Starboard to line the dump bed frame. Not cheap ($250) but it will last forever, is more rigid than HDPE or UHMW, is off white, so the color is pretty close to IH White, and I've used it before on several boat projects. Actually have a piece of it in the shop, just not the right dimensions. it runs $15/sq ft. from boatoutfitters.com. that's the best place to buy this stuff. Sides of the bed will be 10 inches high, or at least that's the plan.

Thanks to both Jon, for suggesting plastic, and Double07 for the "snot" comment.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

You are the sawdustdad, make it out of wood, make the bed out of exotic wood decking, stuff will never rot.
I used to have a pile of that stuff from a 30x20 deck we torn down, it ended up being re purposed as a dock we built on a lake.

Only problem with wood, even the exotics, is that they weather to a silver grey unless treated or painted.

Almost went down that path. Double07's "slick as snot" comment slipped me up and I decided on an even more exotic and expensive material. Starboard is maintenance free and will never rot. Blame my boating hobby...

[darkminion_17]

I meant just the bed, this wood is very dense, heavy, but I like the slippery snot stuff.