149 engine teardown for cam replacement - Page 5

J-Mech · #41 02-13-2018, 03:38 PM

Actually, I believe I was incorrect. The governor gear is cut so that the gear mesh pushes it against the block during engine operation. So, the retainer screw would keep it from coming off during shut down. During cranking, the gear would get pushed back into position.

Mr Bob · #42 02-13-2018, 04:56 PM

OK, I believe I understand it. While the engine is running, the gov. gear meshing with the cam gear keeps it back on shaft toward engine. After engine shut down the long retainer screw keeps it from coming off. Attaching a few pictures along with a new question.
1. Picture 3 shows a regular grey gasket and 3 thin white spacers???
2. Are the white things used to change clearance on front crank shaft and engine block?

Picture #1 is my make shift work bench. Picture #2 is a picture of the gov. gear and cam shaft installed. Cam shaft clearance was .007. Picture #3 is rear bearing plate with crank installed into bearing. I still have to clean the back plate and wipe the crank clean and oil bearing surfaces. I am through for the day. Thanks for the help.
Bob

J-Mech · #43 02-13-2018, 06:15 PM

The Kohler K series service manual will answer these questions, and likely others you may have. You do have a copy, right? If not, it is in the tech section on this site.

Mr Bob · #44 02-14-2018, 12:51 PM

Thanks for responding J-Mech. I do have a copy of the service manual and have been trying to follow it every step of the way. When I took the back plate off it did not have the white (what I was calling gaskets). When I found them in the gasket kit, I did not know for sure what they were. The service manual says to install (gaskets) and then in a side note it mentioned gasket and shims.
After reading that I was thinking metal shims.Though this was confusing to me, I am sure it was not confusing to many others. Now for another question.
1. Since the back plate only had the grey gasket, should I just use the grey gasket? Would it hurt if I used the 3 white shims. End play should be between .003/.020 inch. I sure would hate to have to remove the back plate and do it over. Thanks so much for your help and have a great day.
Bob

J-Mech · #45 02-14-2018, 02:14 PM

Bob, without going and getting the book and reading it, I don't recall exactly what it says, but I'm sure it explains how to install the rear plate and check crank end play.

It doesn't matter what you took off the engine. Forget about it. Put ALL the gaskets in, then check crank end play. If it's too much, take out gasket shims until it is correct. I'm sure the book tells you how to properly assemble the motor, but if a get a few min, I'll look to see what it says.

sawdustdad · #46 02-14-2018, 09:37 PM

Mr. Bob, it usually takes me a couple/three attempts to get the bearing plate shimmed properly and crank end play correct. Just put all the gaskets (gray and white) and torque the plate into place. Check the end play on the crank. Remove white shim gaskets if it's too much. Retorque and check again. Let it sit a few minutes after torquing and check torque. Then remeasure end play.

No way around the trial and error method that I know about. A driver/drill or impact driver/drill with a socket on it makes it quick to run the screws in and out, then use the torque wrench to final torque.

Mr Bob · #47 02-15-2018, 09:29 AM

Well I was hoping that I would not have to go the try and measure method. Going to the hardware and get a couple of studs as some one suggested. Will put all gaskets on, torque, measure and go from there. Thanks Sawdustdad and J-Mech. You don't know how much I appreciate your input. Makes me feel that I can get this engine together and running again. Thanks for taking the time to help. Have a great day.
Bob

J-Mech · #48 02-15-2018, 09:58 AM

What do your needs studs for? To use on the rear cover? Save your $$ and use the bolts. It isn't difficult to do. Might take 15 min. DO leave the lock nuts off during the trial though. They tear up the aluminum cover going on and off. Install them on final torque once the end play is set.

mickb72 · #49 02-15-2018, 10:44 AM

I think the book says grey gasket towards the block. White gaskets are shims. Best cam end play spec is on the tight side, witch i think you have. Best crank end play is in the middle, not to tight. Mike

sawdustdad · #50 02-15-2018, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

What do your needs studs for? To use on the rear cover? Save your $$ and use the bolts. It isn't difficult to do. Might take 15 min. DO leave the lock nuts off during the trial though. They tear up the aluminum cover going on and off. Install them on final torque once the end play is set.

I think the manual suggests using a couple studs to help alignment of the shims and bearing plate bolts. I've never done it that way, but I've considered that it might be easier for someone who doesn't do it frequently.