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#1
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Quiet Line driveshaft into a Wide Frame Hydro
My IH Cub Cadet 149 destroyed the part of the driveshaft that goes into the back of the hub/flywheel. I thought I read that a complete driveshaft assembly from a Quiet Line IH Cub Cadet Hydro would work in a Wide Frame Hydro IH Cub Cadet.
Has anyone tried this? Is this a bolt in? Thanks for any help!!
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Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
#2
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I have thought about that too. However, the 149 wide frame shaft setup has less parts to wear and/or fail and that is why I never converted any of my wide frame stuff. If I were to adapt any other design it would what Sam Mac designed and built.
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Queen Of The Quietlines! |
#3
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I never tried it but the shafts OAL are the same. if you have it, try it.
Here is a pic of the shafts.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#4
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I used part of a 2000 series. Super easy fix. Toss the old hub in the trash, cut off a couple inches of the 149 shaft, slide the 2000 series shaft over the 149 shaft, mark it, take the shaft out, drill it and slap a spirol pin in, reinstall, your done, have a cold one.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#5
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Yes, I have done it to my 149, with the help of Sam Mac for his idea and suggestions, and Jeff in Pa. who makes the adapter you will need for the rear coupling.
The new driveshaft you need comes from a 2000 series Cub and it is not a simple "bolt in" because the driveshaft will have to be shortened. But it is not all that difficult if you have any skills at all. I'm very pleased with the outcome and I know I took step-by-step pictures but I can't locate them right now. Will post them if I find them. The driveshafts are available used on eBay in the 40-50 dollar range. And the adapter from Jeff for his price. And the cost of cutting and welding the driveshaft to new length if you can't do it yourself. One other thing is the fan blade, I got a blade that is correct for the driveshaft. It is bigger in diameter and had to be trimmed down to miss stuff under the cover. |
#6
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Found my pics....
#1 is the new driveshaft sectioned in 3 pieces #2 and #3 is the new driveshaft with a section cut from the old driveshaft to use as an insert #4 is all 3 pieces joined together #5 is a locking screw I put in to secure the insert from moving when all 3 pieces are slid together #6 is the joint after weld #7 is adapter from Jeff #8 is old & new fan |
#7
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Quote:
I want to put a loader on this tractor. The rear end needs to come out to fix an oil leak and do a trunnion repair. It will be a good time to repair everything else. I have a complete driveshaft from a Quiet Line on the shelf. Sam and Ironman, I like what mods you done to the driveshaft. Thanks for posting pictures of your drive shaft.
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Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
#8
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I swapped out a QL drive and put it in my 149 and it works great before that I kept snapping pins .
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#9
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Dale, when I needed a different driveshaft for my 1650 loader tractor I used one from a 782 I parted out. I did have to modify the fan to clear the hyd lines and hydro linkage but it is working fine for me. Next year I plan on building a different tractor to put the loader on using a bunch of spare parts I have and since I plan on adding 6 inches to the frame I will build up a CV driveshaft like what Sam Mac and others have done. I have the CV shafts in both of my 1872's and also a 782 and they are much smoother and trouble free. Good luck.
Tom |
#10
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I put a QL driveline on my 149. Actually added the QL parts at the engine end and drilled the drive shaft for the spirol pin to hold the drive thingy that bolts to the flex disc. Bought the adapter for the engine side. Sorry, I'm not up to speed on the parts' actual names, and too lazy to look them up.
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