Help on 125 front end swap

[Nato527]

Yes, steering box is adjusted correctly.

So, just spit balling here. I'm totally out of my expertise, but would a different steering box work? I'm sure I can get my hands on the matching box for that front end.

[Chad126]

The worm gear is your limitation on your turn radius from the box. Are you familiar with the Ross Column? If not, watching a video on rebuilding a ross steering box (plenty on youtube) is a good place to start. Simple concept. Watching the video will help you learn the engineering behind it.

If you are going to move forward with this modification, then just prepare yourself for a moving target as a finish line. Changing up your steering box may or may not fix your problem.

Also, I would remove the steering assembly from the tractor that supplied the axle casting? Not sure of the compatibility on the columns because I don't know what you took this axle from, but a tape measure and some looking would answer that. Seems like they would be in tune with one another.

On another note, you might find this article interesting:

http://gardentractortalk.com/article...or-a-cub-c-r55

[DoubleO7]

You need to think about what is different now versus before the axle swap.
Is the track width now wider or narrower? Wider, right?
Is the wheel base now longer or shorter? The same, right?
If both answers were no, the axle swap did not make steering harder.
Now look at the steering arm on top of the left knuckle assembly.
Is the length from knuckle shaft/kingpin center to the drag link hole more or less than the original 125's steering arm ?

I have a 127 and the steering arm measures 3-5/8" from knuckle shaft/kingpin center to the drag link hole. The 125 has the same steering arm.

Also on my 127 with the stock steering arm, when steered straight ahead there is real close to 1-7/16" between the frame and the hole for the drag link.

In your pics it looks like a lot more than that. Maybe 2" or a little more?

What are the dimensions on the 1860 axle assembly used?

[Nato527]

Yes double07, I see where your going with this. I'm a trim carpenter by trade, so measurements are my strength. Give me a bit and I will get back with you.

[J-Mech]

So, I have a 104 and an early cyclops parts tractor sitting around. They just happened to be parked about 6' apart, so I went out and did some looking.

First of all, I want to say to the OP that you made the comment about hearing about a lot of guys doing this swap..... not to a NF tractor I doubt. Not all that uncommon of a thing to swap into an '82 styled tractor. But not a NF. I've seen a few guys move a WF axle to a NF, but not a cyclops axle. I think this is the first I've seen anyone do it.

That said, lets address some stuff. (Reference pics below.)
Double07, you were asking what is different. Well, we know for sure it sits a bit wider, but that isn't all. Lets just call the axles C (for cyclops) and the other a NF axle. The NF axle has no caster. None. Just straight up and down spindle. The C axle actually has a very positive caster to it. That in and of itself should make it return to center easier. Between the positive caster and the shape of the C axle, it does also move the front wheels forward. About 3" as a matter of fact. All that into account, the length of the drag links is very different. The NF drag link is 17" center to center of the tie rods. The C axle....15.5". That's quite a bit shorter. Just because I want to state it, I measured the pivot pins. I really thought the C axles used a larger pivot pin, but they don't. They are the same at 3/4". Now the two sets of spindles are quite different also. The C axle spindles are taller. If you notice in the pics, there is also a difference between the resting point of the pitman arm between the two by several degrees. That might account for the difference in drag arm length. (I didn't take the time to figure it out.) All in all, I think you couple the difference in axle design, and the difference in ratio of the steering column, you would lose some torque. While we are on that subject NO, you cannot use the column from a C in a NF. The C column is a tilt column. You should be able to use an '82 styled column though. Pretty sure it will swap without issue.

One more thing to the OP. You never did say how it works jacked up. Is there something binding because it is dry?? Little grease might go a long way.


20180620_181933.jpg20180620_181958.jpg

[Nato527]

Ok , so first things first measurements...,,

King pin to drag link hole 3 1/4 inches center to center.
Frame and hole for drag link. 2 inches exactly. How you got that off a picture, I'll never know, impressive never the less....

To j-mech. You knowledge about these things is amazing. But I'm not seeing the front wheels being 3inches forward, compared to the stock front end. But I don't have the 104 here to compare. As far as the drag length. I'm pretty sure i adjusted this one to roughly the same length as the stock one. Man! I don't remember!! And yes, jacked up, everything was greased and no binding. I am way out of my depth on this one....wish I was better at geometry. I flipped the drag link arm around, taking for a test drive now.

[Nato527]

Couple more pictures

[DoubleO7]

Is the horizontal "stroke" of the drag link more on a 2.5 turn box versus a 3 turn box?
A shorter steering arm along with a shorter "stroke" box on the 1860 might equal about the same amount of steer in the tires as a stock 125.

[DoubleO7]

The length or shape of the drag link does not matter.
It could be S shaped as long as it does not interfere with anything.
Nor does the wheelbase.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by DoubleO7

The length or shape of the drag link does not matter.
It could be S shaped as long as it does not interfere with anything.
Nor does the wheelbase.

I know that.....
I was just giving information since all that was brought up.

However the length does matter. Put one on that's too short and tell me things don't change.