Need opinions from the engine guru's. - Page 5

Billy-O · #41 08-11-2016, 10:13 PM

Some more ideas to place in front of you....

Just curious....does the Ford have the original 6 volt system or has it been upgraded to 12 volts? I'm not sure if the electrical would have a play in higher engine temps.

After rebuild....is crank/cam timing correct?

J-Mech · #42 08-11-2016, 10:55 PM

Do a compression check...... I'm curious, and it's easy.

ol'George · #43 08-12-2016, 09:35 AM

With all that has been done, I'm wondering if the "shop" checked for a cracked head in the combustion chamber and between the valves.
I would like to know the previous history of the engine.
was the head surfaced?
is this an engine with sleeves?
was it exposed to a freeze possibly causing a small crack, in the combustion chamber or cyl wall?
It seems to me all the normal things have been checked,replaced but anything can be missed.
sounds like you have moved beyond the normal procedures.

olds45512 · #44 08-12-2016, 10:14 AM

So we finally got the whole story from the guy that owns this tractor so here goes. The engine was rebuilt 4yrs ago by a shop out in ohio but the Select o speed trans was bad so they never ran the engine, it wasn't until a last fall when we rebuilt the trans that the engine was ran. Apparently the engine has never ran without overheating so we got the go ahead to tear the engine down and see what's up, the engine turns over slowly even with the plugs out so we're leaning towards the pistons being to tight in the bore. The kits that are sold for these engines are supposed to be a drop in kit with no boring required but we know that's not the case and we always have to bore the sleeves, we're betting the guy put the new sleeves and pistons in without checking the clearance. Stay tuned

J-Mech · #45 08-12-2016, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

So we finally got the whole story from the guy that owns this tractor so here goes. The engine was rebuilt 4yrs ago by a shop out in ohio but the Select o speed trans was bad so they never ran the engine, it wasn't until a last fall when we rebuilt the trans that the engine was ran. Apparently the engine has never ran without overheating so we got the go ahead to tear the engine down and see what's up, the engine turns over slowly even with the plugs out so we're leaning towards the pistons being to tight in the bore. The kits that are sold for these engines are supposed to be a drop in kit with no boring required but we know that's not the case and we always have to bore the sleeves, we're betting the guy put the new sleeves and pistons in without checking the clearance. Stay tuned

Dry sleeve engines always have to be at least "fitted" with a rigid hone. I bet your assumption is correct.

olds45512 · #46 08-12-2016, 04:39 PM

Here's a pic of one of the piston, for being rebuilt with only a few hours of run time the inside sure is dirty.

J-Mech · #47 08-12-2016, 04:55 PM

Looks a little scuffed..... I believe you found the issue.

Well.. I've rebuilt motors where people did the same. Rebuilt an 560 IH one time that only had one season on a dealer rebuild. I'll type that again... a DEALER rebuild. They didn't fit the pistons. Just slapped sleeves in it and went. Scored two pistons. It had more issues though. After I rebuilt it, guy kept complaining it was losing water. I tore the head off of it 3 times before I checked the block's deck. The block was warped. Had to tear it down AGAIN and have the block planed. First time I'd ever had an IH 6 cyl with a warped deck. I check them all now. Live and learn.

OldSkull · #48 08-12-2016, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

Here's a pic of one of the piston, for being rebuilt with only a few hours of run time the inside sure is dirty.

Do you have a bore gauge olds? Check if that cylinder is not taper, a good machine shop will get the bore straight and true. A bad machine shop will taper it more and bore it more out of round than it is now.

PS: I'm investigating what cause a K321 to overheat and grenade his connecting rod. What I found out is something I never deal with before in my "Artic" country...

olds45512 · #49 08-12-2016, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Looks a little scuffed..... I believe you found the issue.

Well.. I've rebuilt motors where people did the same. Rebuilt an 560 IH one time that only had one season on a dealer rebuild. I'll type that again... a DEALER rebuild. They didn't fit the pistons. Just slapped sleeves in it and went. Scored two pistons. It had more issues though. After I rebuilt it, guy kept complaining it was losing water. I tore the head off of it 3 times before I checked the block's deck. The block was warped. Had to tear it down AGAIN and have the block planed. First time I'd ever had an IH 6 cyl with a warped deck. I check them all now. Live and learn.

We had a Ford in a few months back that had a dealer rebuilt engine, the guy took the engine to the dealer and they built it and the guy put it back in the tractor. When he got it all together it wouldn't turn over, it was locked solid so the dealer told him to drag the tractor up and down the road to pop start it but all it would do is drag the tires. Turns out the crank was way over torgued and the pistons were to tight, were still trying to figure out how they didn't notice the crank was locked solid while they were putting the pistons in.

J-Mech · #50 08-12-2016, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSkull

Do you have a bore gauge olds? Check if that cylinder is not taper, a good machine shop will get the bore straight and true. A bad machine shop will taper it more and bore it more out of round than it is now.

PS: I'm investigating what cause a K321 to overheat and grenade his connecting rod. What I found out is something I never deal with before in my "Artic" country...

These engines don't get bored, they are sleeved. Unless some extenuating circumstances arise, you just replace the sleeve and "fit" the piston to it. No boring necessary.