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  #11  
Old 12-03-2017, 11:12 AM
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J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugeye View Post
Check the for sale section here on OCC for blade shoes. A member is offering thick shoes for a good $. I have similar thick shoes that have held up over many winters.
Not sure why you are recommending this to him.... go look at the for sale thread. He already bought them and added pics to the thread of his blade with them on it.
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  #12  
Old 12-20-2017, 12:42 AM
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I've been using my new-to-me blade to push leaves into the woods and I'd like more lift. I realise adding a lockout bar will add lift so I'll do that. I also noticed the rock shaft arms hit the blade frame preventing full motion. See pic.

Should I bend the frame arms in or out to miss the rock shaft arms? The frame has a single weld-in plate so I could do bent in or straight.
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File Type: jpg rock arm.jpg (28.0 KB, 115 views)
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  #13  
Old 12-20-2017, 07:30 AM
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Bend the plow mount in, the rockshaft should be on the outside.
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  #14  
Old 12-20-2017, 08:31 AM
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What he said.


Putting in a lockout pin doesn't change the lift. Besides, even if it did that would be a silly thing to do to gain lift. Have to remove the tunnel cover to install and later to remove the pin.
Shorten your lift rod if you want more lift. That's how you do it.
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Jonathan
"They say money doesn't buy happiness....... but it does buy Cub Cadets, and Cub Cadets make me VERY happy!"

Runners: 1050, 1811, 185LB, JD 317
On the "back burner": 2-71's, 1250DS, 1000, 582, 682, 982, JD 318.
I have over 30 implements/attachments! IH, Cub Cadet, Brinly, Agrifab, and more!
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  #15  
Old 12-20-2017, 11:35 PM
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The lockout bar I'm referring to bolts to the slot in the lift bracket. I believe it's intended to allow downward force of the blade onto gravel etc. and the blade will float without the bar.
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File Type: jpg lockout bar.JPG (7.9 KB, 89 views)
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  #16  
Old 12-21-2017, 12:04 AM
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Look at your blade. It doesn't have the holes in it for that lock bar. That bar is meant for the other style bracket for the GT. I know what it's for. It isn't going to help you. You need a different lift bracket on your blade.
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"They say money doesn't buy happiness....... but it does buy Cub Cadets, and Cub Cadets make me VERY happy!"

Runners: 1050, 1811, 185LB, JD 317
On the "back burner": 2-71's, 1250DS, 1000, 582, 682, 982, JD 318.
I have over 30 implements/attachments! IH, Cub Cadet, Brinly, Agrifab, and more!
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  #17  
Old 12-21-2017, 07:43 AM
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I have already replaced the original bracket with this one. I don't have the lockout bar yet but I assume it will give me more lift.
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File Type: jpg WF blade lift bracket.JPG (7.7 KB, 80 views)
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  #18  
Old 12-21-2017, 10:05 AM
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Why don't you give all the information in the first place????

Now you need to shorten the lift rod if you still don't have enough lift.

If you just can't do that, or really, really think you need that bar, save yourself a bunch of time and just put a bolt in either end of the slot. That will shorten the groove.
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Jonathan
"They say money doesn't buy happiness....... but it does buy Cub Cadets, and Cub Cadets make me VERY happy!"

Runners: 1050, 1811, 185LB, JD 317
On the "back burner": 2-71's, 1250DS, 1000, 582, 682, 982, JD 318.
I have over 30 implements/attachments! IH, Cub Cadet, Brinly, Agrifab, and more!
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  #19  
Old 01-21-2018, 11:31 PM
PeterJ PeterJ is offline
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Vrobert,

It looks to me like you have the 377 blade mounting: http://www.cubparts.com/pages/oempar...0-A/0062400001

Your 1811 should use the 316 blade mounting: http://www.cubparts.com/pages/oempar...0-A/0051600001

The 377 hangs lower because it is for the Cyclops with the easy steer front axle, which lifts the frame about 2".

I know a guy that has a 316 that would trade you even up for your 377, if that is what you have.

Please send me a PM.

PeterJ
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