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#1
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Welding the drive hub?
I've got a 105 with a worn drive hub that snaps pins. I'll hopefully be removing the rear to weld up the trunnions this winter and I'm wondering if anyone has welded the drive hub (once removed from engine) so it's back to factory without the track worn by the pin?
Other better / easier options? |
#2
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#3
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Quote:
Your rear coupler may be worn too. I guess I should put a "drive line package" together consisting of a drive hub, driveshaft and rear coupler at a slight discount over single piece pricing. |
#4
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I think he's talking about building up the worn area back to the factory slot, not welding the shaft to the hub. If you are good with the welder and can get the worn area filled and the slot cleaned up like original without messing up the bore it should work. If you mess it up you can always get a new one from Jeff.
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#5
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Quote:
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#6
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Thanks for all the replies. Once I get everything pulled apart I'll check everything and maybe try welding the hub back to new, it's great knowing I can get a replacement at a good price if mine doesn't work out.
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#7
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105 drive hub
After installing 2 "weld repaired" drive hubs I decided to order one from Jeff. I ended up replacing the entire drive line; hub, drive shaft, rag joint, and rear coupler. I only intended to get a new front hub, but after describing the symptoms ( loud banging in the drive line ), Jeff suggested I check the entire drive train. DUHHH .......! I found; the coil pin in the rear coupler had worked almost all the way out, and was only stopped by one of the rag joint bolts, the hydro input shaft seal was leaking, the rear coupler was wobbling and the rag joint was tearing ( I think because I..ummm may have over tightened the rag joint bolts 5 years ago. My new problem is how do I drive the rear coupler coil pin through the the hydro input shaft without supporting the shaft, and damaging the shaft bearings. The tractor is not split, and no I don't want to split it! Is there such a thing as a coil pin installation/removal press ? OK that's enough, I really have to ...
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#8
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A hydraulic or mechanical jack under the rear coupling will support it so you can hit the pin out, but I am not familiar with a narrow frame tractor and if there is access in the tunnel to it??
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