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  #1  
Old 09-01-2014, 03:02 PM
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jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
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Default 42/54 WF BLade on Cyclops (1864)

Alright, I've been wanting to do this for a while, but haven't had time, engergy, and the machine has been tied up with mowing duty. Now that I've got the Super to cover mowing, I can start getting the 1864 ready for winter. Early, I now, but I want to make sure I'm ready for winter before it's too late.

I've researched around online quite a bit and never found any solid pics or write-ups as far as putting an older WF blade on a newer Cyclops. All I ever found was some people saying you need a newer subframe, some said it'd work, some said it wouldn't with no explanation. So, since using a WF blade on a Cyclops was my plan for this winter, I figure I better figure this out once and for all. For this, I used a 54" blade with a standard WF subframe (it'd work the same with a 42" blade, as well).

I'm happy to say that a classic WF blade will in fact fit on a none-Super Cyclops. See the pics below, but be kind; this machine had a PTO side oil seal leak earlier this year and I haven't cleaned things up yet. When mounting, I noticed why some say it won't work. The front axle adjustment bolts/mounts are ALMOST in the way. I will say, it is very close. the mounts for the front axle bolts do it so the sub-frame wont' lock back 100%, but again; see the pics. I was able to trip the blade fully and the blade stayed on no problem so again, this shouldn't be an issue since the QA locks are locked down. In the end, with a little finesse, it mounted right up.

The other concern I saw online is that since the front axle is about 2" higher than in previous machines, the blade angle would be off quite a bit. Again, I found this not to be an issue. The last pic is a side shot of the blade mounted; I don't foresee any problems with this setup over the winter. I've got to fab a lift arm, and cut a notch in the cab for the lift arm to sit, but other than that, it's ready to go.

I hope this can help someone out there, enjoy guys









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Old 09-01-2014, 08:08 PM
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Does the blade sit square on the ground when it's angled all the way to one side or the other? That would be sweet if it did I could put my blade on my 1861 and the thrower on the 782.
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  #3  
Old 09-01-2014, 09:06 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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I can see that falling out of there the first snow pile you hit.
Maybe you could make some short brackets to fit inside and then use a long rod across the quick attach,plus it would lower it to get the correct angle on the blade.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:45 PM
mmzullo mmzullo is offline
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On my 1811 using a wf push frame I ground the side a little(by the axle adj nuts) to make the lock lever work. Also make sure you can get a washer and cotter pin in the locking pins. 1 side I can and the other I can't.
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Old 09-02-2014, 06:54 AM
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jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
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Originally Posted by SS5150 View Post
Does the blade sit square on the ground when it's angled all the way to one side or the other? That would be sweet if it did I could put my blade on my 1861 and the thrower on the 782.
I'm willing to be it will but can't check at the moment. I will as soon as I get back in the garage

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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
I can see that falling out of there the first snow pile you hit.
Maybe you could make some short brackets to fit inside and then use a long rod across the quick attach,plus it would lower it to get the correct angle on the blade.
What makes you think the angle of the blade is off? Maybe it's my pic, but to my eye, it looked about right as is.

As far as a brackets to fit inside, I'm having trouble picturing what you're trying to say

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Originally Posted by mmzullo View Post
On my 1811 using a wf push frame I ground the side a little(by the axle adj nuts) to make the lock lever work. Also make sure you can get a washer and cotter pin in the locking pins. 1 side I can and the other I can't.
Ground the side of the axle jam nuts/bolts or ground the side of the links on the subframe that slide into the locks? I would be willing to grind a smidge off the subframe arms, but not anything on the frame of the tractor.

And FWIW: the standard WF subframe should work on an 1811 without any issue at all, it's what I did all last winter and many more out there have done, as well since there are no axle jam nuts on it.
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:23 AM
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Looks like a little time with the welder is in order. This is how the frame for the blade should look. Shouldn't be a big deal to fab up a couple new mounts and weld them on.
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Looks like a little time with the welder is in order. This is how the frame for the blade should look. Shouldn't be a big deal to fab up a couple new mounts and weld them on.
Blast, yet another time having a welder would save the day, and like so many times before, I don't have one nor do I really have a hookup to one through a friend. I may try to grind a bit off the arms to make them slide the rest of the way back. It really is only a tiny bit that's preventing it from making it past the jam nuts and totally locking it, I'm sure I'll get it. I just wanted a proof of concept
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Old 09-02-2014, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by jimbob200521 View Post
Blast, yet another time having a welder would save the day, and like so many times before, I don't have one nor do I really have a hookup to one through a friend. I may try to grind a bit off the arms to make them slide the rest of the way back. It really is only a tiny bit that's preventing it from making it past the jam nuts and totally locking it, I'm sure I'll get it. I just wanted a proof of concept
Craigs list, tools, welders. Once you get one you'll wonder how you lived without it. Ask me how I know.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:44 AM
Shaner Shaner is offline
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Craigs list, tools, welders. Once you get one you'll wonder how you lived without it. Ask me how I know.

yup once you get a welder you'll noticed everything mysteriously is broken and needs welding....
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:22 PM
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yup once you get a welder you'll noticed everything mysteriously is broken and needs welding....
X3! I'm going to bet when you angle the blade all the way left or right that one corerbtouches and the other doesn't. The secret is... you need the middle "v" shaped frame to be level from front to back on the bottom side. This determines the pitch of the blade.
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