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#1
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42/54 WF BLade on Cyclops (1864)
Alright, I've been wanting to do this for a while, but haven't had time, engergy, and the machine has been tied up with mowing duty. Now that I've got the Super to cover mowing, I can start getting the 1864 ready for winter. Early, I now, but I want to make sure I'm ready for winter before it's too late. I've researched around online quite a bit and never found any solid pics or write-ups as far as putting an older WF blade on a newer Cyclops. All I ever found was some people saying you need a newer subframe, some said it'd work, some said it wouldn't with no explanation. So, since using a WF blade on a Cyclops was my plan for this winter, I figure I better figure this out once and for all. For this, I used a 54" blade with a standard WF subframe (it'd work the same with a 42" blade, as well). I'm happy to say that a classic WF blade will in fact fit on a none-Super Cyclops. See the pics below, but be kind; this machine had a PTO side oil seal leak earlier this year and I haven't cleaned things up yet. When mounting, I noticed why some say it won't work. The front axle adjustment bolts/mounts are ALMOST in the way. I will say, it is very close. the mounts for the front axle bolts do it so the sub-frame wont' lock back 100%, but again; see the pics. I was able to trip the blade fully and the blade stayed on no problem so again, this shouldn't be an issue since the QA locks are locked down. In the end, with a little finesse, it mounted right up. The other concern I saw online is that since the front axle is about 2" higher than in previous machines, the blade angle would be off quite a bit. Again, I found this not to be an issue. The last pic is a side shot of the blade mounted; I don't foresee any problems with this setup over the winter. I've got to fab a lift arm, and cut a notch in the cab for the lift arm to sit, but other than that, it's ready to go. I hope this can help someone out there, enjoy guys
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-Ryan
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#2
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Does the blade sit square on the ground when it's angled all the way to one side or the other? That would be sweet if it did I could put my blade on my 1861 and the thrower on the 782.
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RUN IN THE RED 782 w/50c deck (red); 782 dual stick, 44c deck (y/w); 1050 w/38c deck; 1864 w/54" GT deck; 1872 project Cub Cadet Pro Z 560 L 42" power angle snowblade, #2 tiller, 2-QA42a snowthrowers, 450 thrower, #2 cart; 54" Haban blade; Brinly box blade, 48" dethatcher, moldboard plow; Agri-Fab sweeper 1200, 1863, 1864 parts machines |
#3
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I can see that falling out of there the first snow pile you hit.
Maybe you could make some short brackets to fit inside and then use a long rod across the quick attach,plus it would lower it to get the correct angle on the blade.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#4
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On my 1811 using a wf push frame I ground the side a little(by the axle adj nuts) to make the lock lever work. Also make sure you can get a washer and cotter pin in the locking pins. 1 side I can and the other I can't.
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#5
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Quote:
Quote:
As far as a brackets to fit inside, I'm having trouble picturing what you're trying to say Quote:
And FWIW: the standard WF subframe should work on an 1811 without any issue at all, it's what I did all last winter and many more out there have done, as well since there are no axle jam nuts on it.
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-Ryan
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#6
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Looks like a little time with the welder is in order. This is how the frame for the blade should look. Shouldn't be a big deal to fab up a couple new mounts and weld them on.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#7
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Blast, yet another time having a welder would save the day, and like so many times before, I don't have one nor do I really have a hookup to one through a friend. I may try to grind a bit off the arms to make them slide the rest of the way back. It really is only a tiny bit that's preventing it from making it past the jam nuts and totally locking it, I'm sure I'll get it. I just wanted a proof of concept
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-Ryan
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#8
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Quote:
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#9
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yup once you get a welder you'll noticed everything mysteriously is broken and needs welding....
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Cubs: 2072 w/60" Haban, 782 w/Johnson 14 loader & 44" deck, & 169. Others: Ford 120, Ford LGT100, Ford LGT125, 2 - Ford LGT145s, & 4 - John Deere 140, H1 and H3. |
#10
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X3! I'm going to bet when you angle the blade all the way left or right that one corerbtouches and the other doesn't. The secret is... you need the middle "v" shaped frame to be level from front to back on the bottom side. This determines the pitch of the blade.
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