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  #11  
Old 04-24-2016, 11:25 PM
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Rescue11 Rescue11 is offline
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Yup, notice i didnt specify which corner yeah its taller due to the SS front axle of the later cyclops rigs.

To OP. Easiest way to remedy is park the tractor n blade on a level surface install back of subframe on the foot rest bar, then use a hydraulic jack and torpedo level to bring the front of the sub frame up to the point where the BOTTOM of the middle section, (between mold board and sub frame) is perfectly level. Make two extension pieces that bridge the gap between the quick-tach of the tractor and sub frame of the blade. Weld, bolt, duck tape... whatever your skills are. Easy as it gets.
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  #12  
Old 04-25-2016, 08:11 PM
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I figured the deck would need to be removed, no big deal there. Taking off the sub frame..thats depressing. I assume the rod in the picture is the wrong length lift rod you're speaking of. A rear mounted blade is sounding better and better..
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  #13  
Old 04-26-2016, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCC-Trim View Post
I figured the deck would need to be removed, no big deal there. Taking off the sub frame..thats depressing. I assume the rod in the picture is the wrong length lift rod you're speaking of. A rear mounted blade is sounding better and better..
?? From Jon's post he said deck and sub frame...deck hanger, mule drive. I'm no cyclops expert, but don't you just flip the qa release handle, yank the mule drive forward and it will flop on the ground? It takes me more time to get the deck off and out than to take the mule drive off my 1450.

Bill
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  #14  
Old 04-27-2016, 07:30 PM
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That sounds rather simple. First garden tractor I have owned, soon as I have some time I will jump in with both feet. This is all new to me, I have a lot to learn.
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  #15  
Old 05-13-2016, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rescue11 View Post
Yup, notice i didnt specify which corner yeah its taller due to the SS front axle of the later cyclops rigs.

To OP. Easiest way to remedy is park the tractor n blade on a level surface install back of subframe on the foot rest bar, then use a hydraulic jack and torpedo level to bring the front of the sub frame up to the point where the BOTTOM of the middle section, (between mold board and sub frame) is perfectly level. Make two extension pieces that bridge the gap between the quick-tach of the tractor and sub frame of the blade. Weld, bolt, duck tape... whatever your skills are. Easy as it gets.
Progress. Thank you for your help, I finally had some time to spend getting familiar with the 1641. Happy happy...
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  #16  
Old 05-13-2016, 07:41 PM
SCC-Trim SCC-Trim is offline
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In the pic, what is the rod that is clearly to short supposed to attach to?
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  #17  
Old 05-13-2016, 08:07 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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It attaches to this thingy,BTW your lift bracket on the plow is incorrect.
Looks like this one.
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File Type: jpg DSC00535.jpg (18.4 KB, 134 views)
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  #18  
Old 05-13-2016, 08:29 PM
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The top picture in Lews post is for the rockshaft, which on your 1641 may be where the depth gage is on the right side of the frame. It is probably occupied by a plastic pointer. The cast piece is around 75.00 I think... I believe XMW makes something that might work.

Lews bottom pic is the correct bracket, but a little ingenuity does not require that specific 1. Id say at this point the rockshaft arm is your main (most expensive), followed by the lift rod, followed by the subframe height, etc...

Check with Jeff in PA to see if he can set you up. I have a spare rockshaft arm if he needs to copy it
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1- 1864 Dual hyd, cat 0, axle braces
1- 1450 Dual Stick w/ power steering
1- 1200 in pieces
1- 1864 in pieces
QA36A Thrower, #1 Tiller w/ extensions, IH windbreaker, IH wheel weights, 44C mower deck, 50C mower deck, CCC 54" Blade, GT46 high vacuum deck, GT54 deck, Cub Tripple Bagger, Custom dozer blade, Custom suitcase weights, 3pt cultivator, lawn sweeper, original R-Bucket
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2016, 09:02 PM
SCC-Trim SCC-Trim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
It attaches to this thingy,BTW your lift bracket on the plow is incorrect.
Looks like this one.
Thanks for that, I need to have this thing together and complete in 2 weeks to move some stone. Appreciate the help..
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  #20  
Old 05-13-2016, 09:04 PM
SCC-Trim SCC-Trim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rescue11 View Post
The top picture in Lews post is for the rockshaft, which on your 1641 may be where the depth gage is on the right side of the frame. It is probably occupied by a plastic pointer. The cast piece is around 75.00 I think... I believe XMW makes something that might work.

Lews bottom pic is the correct bracket, but a little ingenuity does not require that specific 1. Id say at this point the rockshaft arm is your main (most expensive), followed by the lift rod, followed by the subframe height, etc...

Check with Jeff in PA to see if he can set you up. I have a spare rockshaft arm if he needs to copy it
Not sure who XMW is, I sent Jeff a link to this thread. And thank you very much.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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