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#21
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I have the cast iron rear from the 149 in this tractor so I'm using the 149 driveshaft with a 2185 coupler to the engine. I had another half of that drive shaft that I cut and drilled for the pin, it's only about 1" longer than the one I did for the CH18. I had the whole thing swapped and bolted up in under two hours. I just have to wire up the engine and it's ready to fire up. At some point when (if) I get settled on the final setup I will look at getting an adapter for the transmission side of the shaft and put in a custom length CV shaft for the drive shaft. I'm still playing around with this tractor, so it's definitely not "final".
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck |
#22
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The original Topic was an overheating Kohler Command. Somewhere it has morphed into a FrankenCub topic.
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#23
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hope the swap fixes the problem.
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1782, 1862, 1440(sold), 89 1050, 128, 70, some run some don't! 72 scout IH 404 tractor |
#24
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I find this juuuuuust a bit insulting. I'm not sure how this is considered off topic, I have/had an overheating issue with a CH18 in a 82 series body tractor which melted plastic parts on the engine. Rather than replacing those plastic parts, and the muffler, I drop in a different engine I have from the tractor that donated it's hood to my 1864, and this is considered rambling? All of my threads are rambling, so you can't just name this one the rambling thread. No offense to anyone, but I think some people here are far too sensitive.
I'll come around to search the forum for good info, but I won't post any more questions or anything so I don't waste your time. Later ya'll
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck |
#25
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FIRST, as I said before, the thread TOPIC was about an overheating Kohler. It got morphed into a different engine, driveshafts, etc.
All I was saying, since you didn't pick up on, start a new topic. This makes it easier for present and future searches. YOU admit to searching OCC for information for the subject you are interested. It isn't that hard. If you are mad and got your feelings hurt, then so be it. Sorry that you don't understand.
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#26
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My feelings are fine, as good as ever, I'm not hurt. I obviously missed the subtle hint to start a new thread. What I have done throughout this thread is all related to the original issue. I don't understand why I should have started a new thread, but that's not the issue here. I'm just tired of coming on here and posting a thread that inevitably morphs and I end up getting called a whiner, rambler, or an argument over what's better, etc. It's happened several times now, just about every thread I've ever started... and now this one has morphed into... well, this.
As far as I'm concerned you can just vaporize all, or most of this whole thread, the issue I experienced with heat was related to a crack in the muffler, ventilation issues, and my lack of foresight that heat would be an issue in this setup. None of those were known to me when I posted the thread because I was just thinking "hmmm, has anyone else had an issue with heat with this setup". I did notice the engine seemed a little louder than my 1864, but figured it was just the muffler was a little more "used up" inside.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck |
#27
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I think it overheated because you didn't remove the solid lower panel. It had nothing to do with the muffler, unless exhaust gas was blowing directly onto a plastic part. Even then, it would have had to be a pretty bad leak. Honestly, I can't believe in all the mechanic work you claim to do, you didn't foresee that as an issue. It's kind of like putting a board in front of the grille on a car and thinking it won't overheat.
You do have trouble staying on topic in your threads. |
#28
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Dont run off, at least someone is working on their toys. I haven't had much time to mess with mine in awhile.
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1782, 1862, 1440(sold), 89 1050, 128, 70, some run some don't! 72 scout IH 404 tractor |
#29
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Ok. J, when did I ever claim to do mechanic work? I do a little bit of mechanic work, but nothing that makes me an expert on it. I just work on my own stuff, and occasionally for neighbors. Truth is, I tinker with these things to pass the time and as a hobby.
V30, jokes don't translate well in print. I didn't take it as a joke because I do tend to ramble on and get off topic. I am a very sarcastic person and it never works in print. My wife gets mad at me sometimes because she doesn't know if I'm kidding or serious... in person.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck |
#30
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Quote:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...3&postcount=86 Quote:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...&postcount=126 Quote:
You talk a lot about doing some pretty major work for a non-mechanic. Most non-mechanics find experts to tear motors down and swap transmissions. So, if nothing else can be taken from this thread, let it be known that if you want to do a frame swap from a cyclops and put '82 style tins on it, you MUST remove the lower frame cover or the engine will grossly overheat. |
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