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#11
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Have you tried pulling the choke when this happens to see if it comes back to life?
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#12
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Second, when it is dying, do you try pulling the choke out? If so, does it help? Make it worse? Do you pull it out a little, a lot? What??? What does "I play with it enough to get the tractor to run" mean? Play with the throttle? Choke? Get off and rub it's belly??? Quote:
The return spring for the brake pedal IS NOT connected to the throttle in any way shape of form. It is related to the hydrostat control lever, but not connected to it. Quote:
Just because you have ran two tanks of gas through it DOES NOT mean that the fuel tank is clean. Quote:
Unless you have removed the engine completely from the frame and removed ALL the engine tins, there is no possible way you could know that there is nothing inside the shrouding on the motor. Yes, it is possible something is overheating.... but it takes time to diagnose what. We need to rule out simple things first and go from there, that is why is suggested what I did in my initial response. No sense jumping straight to a sticking valve, scored piston, spun rod, ect, before first eliminating the easy common fixes. At this point in the game, I'm not convinced that the brakes aren't sticking and the motor only runs at 1800 RPM and it's just killing it. Short answer, NO. dodge trucker cleared up the terminology, but there are other reasons the answer is no. You need to check the timing. |
#13
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When I say turning over I mean the engine starts, the tractor runs but after the allotted time, the engine begins experiencing this trouble. I've been at work all week and have not had any time to play with the tractor. I don't know what type of coil it has but will look at that as well as the gas cap... As I'm not too familiar with the tractor, I may post a few pictures for consulting purposes ...
Enjoy the day everyone ! Alex |
#14
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I did play with the choke during one of the episodes.. I did notice a little bit of a difference but I couldn't get the tractor to continue, still had to bring the throttle back to Neutral. Could the choke have anything to do with something like this.
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#15
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Did you read my post? There is NO NEUTRAL on the throttle!! What lever are you talking about? The hydro control lever has a neutral.... is that the "lever" you are talking about?
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#16
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Interesting
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149,682,1641,1711 with a 12hp in it 1 8" brinly plow 1 10" brinly plow 451 snow blower,H-48 International snow thrower 42" york rake with fold down grader blade. |
#17
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#18
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Guys, I apologize if I replied before reading any of the posts... It seems I have missed some and in my doing so neglected to clear up a few things.
It is not the throttle.. it is the hydro control lever. When I "filed" the points, all I did was take a quarter and rub it very gently on the points to get rid of any corrosion... I took the advice of my neighbor who has worked on cars all his life ( in his mid 70's) and he said do it very gently as you don't want to take/file down the actual points. So again, I barely touched the points but if I do need to time the points/engine, how is this done? Do you guys have any videos or recommendations on how to learn this process? After the machine runs for 20 minutes and the engine begins to choke or bog down to the point of stalling out, I noticed that when I return the hydro control lever from F to N this prevents it from stalling out completely, the engine then "recovers" in the N position and idles and idles normally I would say. However, when I adjust the hydro control lever to the F position and the tractor starts moving forward it begins to choke/bog down again and in turn I'm forced to bring the hydro control lever to Neutral. If I'm not near my garage, I'll have to let the tractor cool down for a bit before I can get it working again enough to return it to my garage. I ordered the Marvel Mystery Oil and expect it in a couple days (probably Monday/Tuesday). I used Sea Foam in the second tank but haven't noticed a difference obviously.. is MMO similar or completely different? The GAS cap. I'll check the cap again but I did not notice anything clogged. As one of you have mentioned, I may have to drain the tank and clean it completely. There is no fuel filter I can locate and from the research I've done so far I don't believe this tractor has one. In regards to the Choke, I noticed on a few occasions that when the engine begins to bog down and I move the hydro control lever down toward the N position, I pulled the choke 1/2 way or sometimes all the way out and it has saved the engine from completely shutting off (but still have to bring the hydro control lever to N). I'm off tomorrow and hope to look more into the tractor. What is the best method of testing the ignition coil? if that is overheating? I'm not too savy with a multimeter so any help would be appreciated. AGAIN, I apologize but I never saw some of your posts... Have a great weekend gents! Alex |
#19
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If you only stop the forward motion of the tractor and the engine recovers, it sounds like a fuel related issue. Do as suggested in about 10 of the posts and clean the fuel system and carb. Then adjust the carb and governor while you are at it.
You can find the information in the Kohler manual here: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4646 Time the ignition system like this: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33461 You can test the coil if you like, but I am pretty sure it's fine: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11 Take the time and look through the tech section of the forum. Lots of manual, "how to's" and more in it: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/f...f=19&order=asc In the Tech section, at the top of the page, you will see another smaller section titled "Tech Tips". Check it out too. |
#20
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Sounds like your mistaking the forward/reverse lever for the throttle cause the throttle has no neutral
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