50a front wheel kit instructions

[Userj8670]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I wouldn't suggest anything. I've ran those decks all my life. Never needed anything added to them to "stiffen them up". Make sure it has the plate on top and it's tight. It's fine. Quit worrying.

Lol I am big on preventative maint. and I figure while I'm gonna have it stripped down and repainted, now would be the time to do any modification or additions. I don't want to do this twice and I know u of all people can certainly appreciate that my friend

I saw someone- while doing searches for reading on these decks- commented how they are weaker so that got me worried.

[SS5150]

I've got a newer (yellow) 50c deck and I'm pretty sure it's got a round bar squared up on the discharge side from front to back (over the top of the deck). I was thinking it was to add a little strength.

Short of plowing the front of the deck into uneven ground and caving it in I don't know how you'd really hurt one.

[zippy1]

Clean it, paint it, mount it, and use it, it'll be fine.
They are only "flimsy" if they are rotted out, otherwise it'll work fine as long as you need it...

[J-Mech]

Preventative maintenance is changing oil, fixing small leaks and worn out parts before they completely fail and cause unscheduled down time. Adding metal to something to strengthen it is more of a modification.

Check to make sure that the deck has the steel plate on top. That ads more strength than anything. Seen a few that they were either missing or broken. Clean the deck up really well and look for stress cracks. Weld them up if you find any. Dag1450 talked about the rear wheel brackets cracking the deck. That is true, they will. That is more of a setting thing though. The wheels aren't designed to run just off the ground and keep it from digging in. They are not designed to carry the deck. Once you get your cut height set, park the tractor on concrete. The wheels should not be touching the concrete. 1/2" or so above is about right. (The user's manual may have a spec, not sure.) The newer decks like the GT deck, now those can carry the deck. But they are made completely different.

Dag, just for the record I don't disagree that what you did wasn't good thing. I just am not sure it's worth the trouble. I mean, the 50C deck I have still has the original spindle bearings in it and for the most part has held up well. I did recently get a used deck to likely replace it with, but mine has just worn out. The metal on the left edge has gotten so thin from grass friction wear that it is cracking, and like you mentioned the wheel mounts on the back of the deck cracked (I welded it back together).... but the tractor has over 2K hours on it, and I'd venture to say that about 1500 have been put on that deck. Assuming you cut grass at an average speed of 3mph (which would account for turning and mowing around obstacles) that would equate to cutting about 2300 acres of grass. I think that's a pretty good run really for it being a stamped deck. *Most* of the tractors on this forum don't have much over 1000 hours if even that many. Few have 2000 or more. So they should still have a lot of life left in them.

[dag1450]

Its all good. I think a lot depends on the yard to b mowed. My lot is not in the mountains...but anything but level. Lots of grade changes, hills and valleys....for a mower deck. What I liked about the round bar mod was once all done u almost couldn't see it. Just the fact that he was asking shows he will b a better driver than most....but... somehow most of the decks I have seen r caved in on the front to some extent, mashed up on closed end and the discharge wheel repaired with some sort of "bubble gum" welding....lol. Yes that round bar up over the top on the discharge side was a good idea by Cub. I think that was on most c decks. Installing my round bar probably took about 2 hrs with another guy.... welding.. bending... welding...bending... talking... If u have the time...it can't hurt. Keep us posted what you end up with.
Oh..I almost forgot. The rear hangers could use some more steel. The small carriage bolts want to pull through the shell. U could add some big washers or make a plate for inside. And lastly once your all painted and ready to assemble...put a thin layer of grease between the spindle stiffning plate. It seems extreme but again...I think it's a good idea to seal that moisture trap.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by dag1450

Oh..I almost forgot. The rear hangers could use some more steel. The small carriage bolts want to pull through the shell. U could add some big washers or make a plate for inside.

I was going to bring that up earlier, and I forgot. I'd plate it. That is an issue.