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#1
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Electrical question
I picked up a non running 128 a while back and I am about to get into it. The one thing I know is that when I try to start it as soon as the key is turned to the on position (not the start position) the starter generator begins cranking the engine over and continues until the key is turned off. The ignition switch is not oem. It is one that takes an Indak key. I looked at the wiring and it looks ok but I haven't thoroughly went through it. Could it possibly be a stuck solenoid. The previous owner claimed that it had ran but they just hadn't started it in a long time. Anyways I thought that might be a quick solution and was wondering if i was sniffing in in the right direction.
JD |
#2
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It could be a stuck solenoid, or.... not
It's a very simple switch, In run and start positions, 12V is provided to the coil In the start position, 12V is also provided to the starter solenoid In the off position, the only voltage that appears is on the battery side fat connection of the solenoid , not on any other. That's pretty much it. To test for a stuck solenoid, disconnect the + battery cable. Measure resistance between the two fat connections on the solenoid. There should be infinite resistance (an open circuit). If it's stuck, you'll see continuity (with a low resistance)
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#3
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#4
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Key switch
I have had universal style ignition switches short out internally several times. In aviation ground support equipment everything uses these universal Ign switches, When they sit corrosion builds up in them and the terminals get "arched" together.. Look at back of switch. B is battery, I is Ignition, S is crank.
With a meter check continuity between I and S.. there should not be any.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#5
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Can’t be a stuck solenoid. If solenoid was stuck closed it would crank all the time regardless of key position. Sounds like wrong/mis wired keyswitch or as cooperino has suggested.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#6
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Had that happen on my 147 Checked the key switch, the solenoid, both were OK. Ended up changing the voltage regulator, and it fixed the problem.
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72,147,149,169,1450w/Johnson loader,#2 cart, IH lawn sweeper |
#7
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Can't be a stuck solenoid. Like Alvy said, a stuck solenoid would crank with the key in the off position, while holding the key in your hand.
A bad VR isn't likely, as when they stick, usually cranking continues after the ignition is off. It's either a faulty ignition switch, or bad wiring, or both. But it IS NOT a stuck solenoid. |
#8
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I found a couple wires shorted with bad insulation. The switch tested good but I didn't like the looks of the corrosion on the back side. I repaired the wires and picked up a new switch. I'm gonna try to sort the wires out tomorrow and see if she'll fire properly. Thanks again for the discussion here guys.
JD |
#9
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Quote:
John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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