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View Poll Results: What color should the wheels be?
White Wheels 36 81.82%
Red Wheels 8 18.18%
Voters: 44. You may not vote on this poll

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  #91  
Old 01-21-2018, 01:24 PM
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cadetmike cadetmike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrewer View Post
Looks good !

It may match the color of your finger?
Haha yeah pretty close!
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  #92  
Old 01-23-2018, 09:51 AM
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Just a little update:

I ordered a decal set for a 100 so the colors will be red not blue, I will probably not be applying the numbers though since it is not a 100.

I ordered new rear tires, I went with 23x10.5 Tru Powers, delivered for $185 for the pair. I thought that was pretty good.
I mounted my 4x8 front tires on the wide rims that came with the WF axle. They look a little goofy, but the look is growing on me.

I also should be hearing back from the machine shop on the engine soon, it should be done this week

The new wiring harness I ordered from Mike should be here today or tomorrow.

On top of all that in case I didn't have enough to do, I started fabricating a dozer blade so I can push a little dirt around once its all done.
It will be power up and down via dual 12v actuators like I have on the rear.
The lifting frame and blade will disconnect from the tractor completely, kind of like a minute mount snow plow.
That way when I am not using it there will be no ugly frame work hanging off the front of the tractor.
The blade itself is a no name snow plow blade so I didn't feel bad chopping it up a bit.

I will post some pictures of it later, it is still in the early stages of design.
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  #93  
Old 01-23-2018, 10:04 AM
twoton twoton is offline
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......I will post some pictures of it later,........
.
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  #94  
Old 01-23-2018, 08:11 PM
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As promised I have more pics

Here is the frame to which I will attach the actuators and blade for the dozer blade I am building, don't look too hard at the welds, they are rather embarrassing... my welder struggles with 1/4"+.
The upper cross-member will hold the top end of the actuators and the lower will have pivots for the blade.
To remove the entire assembly, I will just have to remove the upper and lower through pins and unplug the actuators.
IMG_0839.jpg IMG_0835.jpg
IMG_0834.jpg IMG_0841.jpg

I also added a brace for the factory frame bracket, I felt it would be sturdier if some of the stress was transferred back further in the frame.
IMG_0833.jpg

Ok back to the boring stuff.
I noticed while prepping the rear rims, that I have two different rims!! The main differences are the bead seat shape, and the stem size... anyone know which is factory?
I believe the one on the right with the flat bead seat is supposed to be used with a tube...?
IMG_0830.jpg IMG_0831.jpg

I threw the bulkhead on only to realize I will need to remove it to put the dash decal on but it looked so good I left it on
IMG_0840.jpg
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  #95  
Old 01-23-2018, 08:41 PM
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Nice looking project Mike. It was nice to meet you a while back. Glad the axle is working out for you. When you get done with that I have a 70 roller you need. LOL
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  #96  
Old 01-23-2018, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs View Post
Nice looking project Mike. It was nice to meet you a while back. Glad the axle is working out for you. When you get done with that I have a 70 roller you need. LOL
Haha don't tempt me!! lol
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  #97  
Old 01-30-2018, 09:15 PM
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Been a little while since I last posted here; I have been taking care of some other projects for a few days, so I didn't get much "cub time" as you all call it.

A bunch of parts arrived for the cub, so I felt the urge to begin work on that again. Started to put the clutch together tonight, I am going with a red spring to get a little more bite. I found the friction plates to be quite pitted and rough, probably should be replaced but I decided to try to dress them up a little instead. I don't have any fancy expensive equipment, so using the tools I have I came up with a way to resurface the plates. I ran a 5/8 bolt through the center and chucked it up in my drill press. Clamped down some sand paper and away we went; sure glad I got the model with the 5/8 chuck.
Now I know this is not the proper way to do this, and it isn't prefect, but it seemed to work quite well, and lets face it this is not a Lamborghini
IMG_0846.jpg IMG_0842.jpg
IMG_0844.jpg IMG_0845.jpg
I also recieved the decals I ordered, so I put the dash sticker on so I could bolt that down... Now I'm no expert, but it think it looks pretty good.
IMG_0847.jpg
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  #98  
Old 01-31-2018, 06:30 AM
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Looks very good Mike. That disk should work fine as long as you back off on the 8,000 RPM bang shifts.
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  #99  
Old 01-31-2018, 06:45 AM
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Looks very good Mike. That disk should work fine as long as you back off on the 8,000 RPM bang shifts.
Thanks jbrewer!... Boy I don't know... it's gonna be hard, I got that need for speed, especially when I get on my lawn mower
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  #100  
Old 01-31-2018, 05:46 PM
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You want to be on the step when you hit the patch of Bermuda....
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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