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#1
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Cub Cadet 129 w/ K301
I think I'm going to need some help from the knowledgeable Cub Cadet fans. I'm having an issue with my k301 engine. I've noticed there was a leak around the head gasket so I pulled the head off and noticed it had been leaking for a while. Long before I purchased it. I went ahead and sanded the head with sandpaper on a piece of glass from a picture frame(all I could find at the moment). I then scraped the block mating surface and lightly filed the rough spots. When I put the new gasket on I sprayed it with copper spray sealant and torqued the head down to 30ft pounds. Ran it for 15 minutes at idle, let cool, and then retorqued the bolts (as the kohler book states). I noticed that it was leaking again before I retorqued the bolts the second time. And after i retorqued the second time, it still leaked. I just don't understand why it would start leaking again after cleaning the the mating surfaces. Might I add when I pulled the head off it was cracked. Looked like previous owner dropped it. So I purchased a used head and cleaned it up. :huh:
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#2
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What makes you think it's still leaking?
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#3
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When I look up around the head gasket area there is fresh gas/oil surrounding the surface.
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#4
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If it's still leaking then it must not have sealed for one reason or another, without seeing it in person it might be hard to pinpoint the issue. It's also possible the seal is leaking behind the flywheel and the air off the flywheel is pushing the oil out around the head.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#5
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Back up.....
So, you planed the new head? Is that correct? You say you cleaned off the block, but lightly filed the rough spots? I can't think of anything that should require a file..... not on the gasket surface anyway. It is possible that it had been run long enough that the deck surface isn't flat. I've seen that, but not usually beyond the allowable limit. I have had to work on the deck on one motor because of it.... but it's not a super common thing. On the oil/gas you see on the gasket area: Tim is right with his suggestion to check the rear seal to make sure you don't have a leak. However, I will note, if you have not run it much ( under 4 -6 hours) under load, it may indeed still leak. Sometimes it takes a while for the head gasket to seal. Especially with copper spray on it. Next time, forget the spray. It doesn't need it. That gasket is meant to be installed dry and bare. You may actually be seeing it boil out the copper too. Also, I do want to make sure you used a metal type gasket (Kohler or equivalent) correct? There are some cheaper gaskets out there that are more like a silver coated gasket than a metal clad one. |
#6
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I'm with jon on this one.
A couple of years ago I was working on a 102 year old 4 cyl continental engine that there was no head gasket available for, so I reused the original one, using copper spray. It took a while before it sealed and burned off the Permatex copper spray. I also thought the gasket re seal failed, but it was not leaking coolant just what looked like a gas/oil mix. Give it time as jon said. |
#7
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First I would like to thank everyone for their imput on the head gasket. I never of it coming from the rear oil seal. I did notice that there was about a 2 inch circle of oil/gas on the blower housing. It is about where the head gasket is so I figured it was blowing from the head gasket. When I lightly filed the head, it was where the old head gasket left stuff behind. When I bought the head gasket. I did make sure it had the extra fire ring.
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#8
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Did you plane thead until it was flat?
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#9
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Yes I did. I used a piece of glass and sandpaper (320grit)
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