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#1
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Cub Cadet 100 transmission advice needed.
I pulled apart to repair the creeper that was stuck in low and to replace axle seals. From what I have read I should use Hytran in the creeper, transmission and rear end. Is this right. Just a little confused. Especially the transmission. Where do you fill it and check the fluid level? Thanks for any help.
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#2
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The rearend is all one cavity. Fill it through the hole in the rear cover, when it starts to run out it's full.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#3
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I see a rear pto lever. Very cool
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#4
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first things first....
GIVE IT A BATH!! Then I'd pull the shift cover off to refill it, (just dump it in there, 7 pts I believe, much easier,) and check the forks and shift cups for tightness and/or stretching followed by a new gasket, (looks like that's where all the crud is coming from) . |
#5
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You don't have to use the Hy-Tran in the transmission or creeper gear. You can use straight 30w according to the owners manual page 16 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4667
I have used 30w in my 72 for over 20years. I just finished putting new rear seals and bushings in it, checked everything out and was in perfect condition for being 50 years old. I usually use the Hy-Tran just in my hydro's. It is pricey.
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72,147,149,169,1450w/Johnson loader,#2 cart, IH lawn sweeper |
#6
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Dittos on the 30 wt.
I was going to mention that as it's what I use in mine also. but....I figured someone would jump down my throat. |
#7
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Yes it does need a bath. Just got it pulled off. Thanks for the tip on the 30w. I have no idea what was in the creeper. It was a thick nasty crud.
Seems like the upper rear end housing and transmission wouldn't get much lubrication by just filling to the fill hole. That's why I thought the transmission was filled separate. So, to take off the gear shift plate is there anything I need to watch out for when I take the plate off. Don't want to misalign gears or screw something up. Every time I touch this thing seems to cost me $$$. Oh well, can't wait to get it back together. Hydro pump seal is next. Thanks to all for you advice. Much appreciated. |
#8
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Just make sure it's cleaned off and in neutral when you pull it off, Don't want a bunch of crap falling in there.
Hydro pump seal??? You have a hydraulic lift on it too, huh? Nice option to have on a gear drive. |
#9
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It's hard to get more than 50-60 yrs out of a cub without it breaking down
Seriously, it sounds like a great tractor well worth putting money into. Maybe you can give us a summary and a photo when you're done? John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#10
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I plan on taking some more pictures as I go. I bought this tractor to use putting in food plots where I hunt. Don't plan on making it a beauty queen but it will be mechanically sound. Won't get much done for a couple days. Parts are on order. Meanwhile I'll be checking the site out and seeing your guys tractors.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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