Model 1 tiller question

[tobo127]

Will a tiller off a 100 fit on a 127 (angle drive bracket)? My question is: Is the rear end plate bolt pattern the same on both tractors? I want to say it is but would like to know for sure before I take a ride to pick up the tiller.

[darkminion_17]

The holes are the same.

[_DX3_]

Check out our implement technical library. Lots of info there such as this:

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1%20Tiller...s%20Manual.pdf

[tobo127]

DX3,
I read the model 1 manual but it only mentioned tractor models up to the 125 (I assumed this was only because of the date of printing but I just wanted to have my assumptions verified). All good info in the implement manuals though. The more you read the more it explains (and makes sense). Then I was wondering what the difference was with the model 1 to 1A to 2. Seems like the same info is mentioned in the different manuals but just includes later model tractors. Other than the PTO mule drives, all the angled gear drives and tillers are interchangeable and can be used on all tractor models?

[DoubleO7]

check this thread:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=17180

[tobo127]

Originally Posted by DoubleO7

check this thread:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=17180

Thanks for the link. That makes sense because the one I'm looking at is a model 1 and it has the extension on one side.

[tobo127]

Picked the tiller up today. It's a model 1, came with the angled drive and small belt. Needs the pulley shroud like most. Condition is great for the age, tines are not worn excessively and the tiller shaft bearings are tight (no slop, not froze). Only broken piece I see is the cover to the gear drive has the corners broken off the aluminum casting and the gear box was empty of oil.........bone dry, and a few holes in the chain drive case that need to be repaired. Not really sure why those are there, maybe the PO drilled them to oil the chain? The bearings in the gearbox are still tight though so I'm thinking the oil seeped out the cover when the tiller was stored or it wasn't run when dry. The gears look good also minus a little surface rust. Maybe the seals are gone, I'll find that out when I tear it all apart. I've soaked everything on the tiller with penetrating oil for the holidays.

Now I just need a 3-point hitch to make it all functional!

[tobo127]

Finally got to continue on the tiller after most of the tractor is done. The main trouble part was the tine tubes on the output shaft. Needed a big puller, a lot of heat and a BFH to persuade the tube to move, albeit a few thousandths at a time. Tighten, heat, WHAM! ........repeat. After the first side was removed, had to refill the oxy tank. One penalty of moving is finding local suppliers all over again. Always something to slow the progress down.

One question, how tight/sloppy are the tubes supposed to slide on the shaft? Were they a close tolerance slip fit or did they slide on pretty easy? If loose, I'd think the clevis pin/hole would get worn/egged out pretty quick. But if too tight a fit then any slight distortion of the tube from use would make for a tough time to remove. I'd like to have a slip fit so after each use (or at least at the end of the season) remove the tine assy, clean/lube the shaft to prevent seizing again. For those that have recently rebuilt their tiller, how did you clean up the ID of the tubes?

[steved]

I just finished rebuilding my tiller and I still need to post some pics and share some things I learned. Several of the guys here gave me some good pointers. My tiller was in a lot worse shape than yours appears to be. It had been sitting outside for about 25 years. I had to use a lot of heat and the impact wrench to get the tiller tubes apart and like you found out, they don't go back together smoothly. I was lucky enough to have a 6' radial arm drill and was able to clamp each section in a vice and run a reamer back through the tubes. I gobbed on the never seize and they went together fine and hopefully will not get stuck together again. Also, new pins. If you don't have access to a large drill or reamer, your best bet might be a flapper wheel with a hand drill. You might have to get creative and make some sort of extension. How far are you going to take the tiller gear case apart? Take lots of pictures and download the Bill of Materials that shows the number of bolts and size of each for each assembly. It helps a lot if you are going deep into this beast. Good luck!

[tobo127]

steved,

Will be taking it completely apart. Have already taken many pics to date but will take more as I go along (it's amazing how much you forget from one day to the next, which way a linkage goes or if a certain plate is upside down or not). I was curious about the tine shafts and tubes as one of mine (the extension tube) goes on fairly easy if pushed on but will not rotate without grabbing (like it's out of round or egged slightly). I don't want to drive it on again to line up the pin holes and was wondering how loose the factory "fitment" was. Usually, when you get discouraged and drive something on (never thinking you'll have to take it apart again) is when you see you forgot something and you are the one to try taking it off again. At this point, if it doesn't slide on, it isn't ready yet! Your final result looks great. Have you had a chance to use it yet? ...and if so, how did it perform? One other question: I wonder if the heat to remove the tubes has changed the temper and will allow them to distort easier in use. Anybody have any experience of use after a tough rebuild and if the parts hold up like new parts (temper wise)?