The "189" - one piece at a time 149 conversion

[sorner]

Well, I teased this idea a week or so ago and I had my doubts about doing it, but decided to give it a try. I have the engine already and lots of extra parts from other tractors so I haven't spent an additional penny yet. I'm very surprised with the fairly interchangable parts between the years of tractors. In order to use the CH18 in the 149 I needed to use a rear mounted gas tank which I had from a 1641 carcass. This requires the use of the fender deck also which fits almost perfectly on the 149 frame. I will post more pictures and stuff as this project continues.

IMG_4153.jpg

Here's the "189" with the engine in and the 1641 fender and gas tank sitting on the frame. I had to cut the frame for the starter to fit, I should build a bump out to the frame to restore integrity... agree?

IMG_4252.jpg

IMG_4255.jpg

Here's the driveshaft setup, I got the idea from a post SamMac made a while back using a 2185 driveshaft. For now I used a snowblower shear bolt instead of the pin in the original driveshaft.

IMG_4257.jpg

The engine is mounted to a 1641 engine mounting plate without spacers to get the engine low enough to line up with the driveshaft. I nipped for the ears that are closest to the dash tower because they hit the frame and won't let the engine sit properly. Two of the holes lined up perfectly with frame holes over the front axle that were already there and I had to drill two new holes for the other two mounting bolts for the engine plate. Here it is all mounted up.

IMG_4258.jpg

I am able to use the mule drive off the 1641 for the newer style decks, so I can use my GT48 and GT54 deck on this tractor by swapping the bar that releases the mule drive in the front (not sure what it's called but it swapped and fit perfectly).

I ordered a muffler for an 1864 which will fit in there behind the grille. The only thing I have to do yet is wire it up and put some finishing touches on some things. And build a battery box in the dash where the gas tank used to be.

More to come....

[farmall fred]

That is going to be cool. Classic looks with modern power and smoothness. I also have been surprised how interchangeable the parts are on the cubs. When I built my 1872 with the EFI command engine I used a 1864 seat pan fenders and fuel tank. With a set of risers from a 2882 it all bolted together on the super frame. If you have the front axle and power steering from the tractor the CH-18 came from they would also be pretty much a bolt in. I used a 1864 PS set up in my 1650 loader tractor. If you want you could cut a section of the 1641 frame and blend it into the 149 frame to reinforce it. Done right most would never notice. Keep up the great work.
Tom

[sorner]

The engine came from a 2185 so no power steering. The steering feels pretty good as is actually.

[DieselDoctor]

Pretty cool project. I definitely would reinforce the frame around the starter. I have the same driveshaft modification in my 149 to eliminate the rag joint. I think you may want to consider welding the union in the two shaft after your test fit and trial period. I don't believe a shear bolt will take the torque of the CH18 for very long.

[sorner]

The shear pin bolt is temporary. It was the only thing I had handy to fit in the hole to hold it together for testing, I am making sure everything fits before I fasten anything permanently. I don't know if there will be much force on that area of the frame since there's another steel piece in there (the 1641 engine plate) that will distribute the force more than just mounting the engine to the frame. I probably will build out the frame around it just for looks at least, and for comfort just in case.

[sorner]

This evening I had some time to work on the rig. I fabbed up a battery tray out of the two gas tank brackets and a piece of thick sheet metal for a bottom. I drilled new holes to get it low enough for the battery terminals to clear the hood. Problem is I can only use the smaller lawn and garden battery, not the big one like my 1864 uses. TSC has a 460CCA lawn and garden battery that will fit and hopefully have enough juice to spin the Kohler.

IMG_4296.jpg

[farmall fred]

The TSC battery you have will start the 18 hp command fine . The battery I have in my 1872 with a 28 hp command is about the same size and it starts it just fine. I have had a 385 cc battery in my 782 with a 20 hp command for three years and it has always started it without issue. Good luck with the project.
Tom

[sorner]

That's a Walmart EverStart battery in the picture, and it's spent... it wont turn anything. I am just using it for size. When I got my 1864 it didn't have a battery and I tried a battery like this one, a lawn and garden 230CCA and it barely cranked the engine. I went and got the right size battery for the 1864 tray (more like a car battery) and it's like 565CCA or something if I remember and it turns the engine with ease. So I think (hope) a 320 or 460 will be fine. I'll probably just go with the 460 because I don't want to risk it being under-powered.

[sorner]

More progress. I got the muffler in, it's not perfect condition but workable. Rather than cutting the hood around the valve cover I decided to flair it a little bit more to get the clearance I needed between it and the hood. It worked pretty well. I will smooth out the flair at some point in this project. My plan is to get everything fitted and then take it back apart for paint.
20170629_233828218_iOS.jpg
20170629_233836824_iOS.jpg
20170629_233819745_iOS.jpg

One problem I see that I will have to deal with is the PTO pulley is too close to the bottom part of the lower grille. The picture looks worse than it really is, There's about 1/2" between it and the grill, but I don't think I will be able to get a 5/8" belt in there for obvious reasons.
20170629_234009265_iOS.jpg
So I think as a workaround, I can cut that lip back where the belt will sit, about 1/4" to get the room I need to slide a belt in and out. It will still be behind the grill material, I plan to use some steel grill that won't be susceptible to heat. The muffler is also pretty close, but I think it'll work. I will have to make a custom heat shield to go around it which looks like it'll be pretty easy to make one out of sheet metal.

[Terry C]

Going to have to move the mule drive pulleys forward also.