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  #11  
Old 06-07-2017, 12:45 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I took the hood and grill housing off, then used a swivel head 1/4" drive rachet on one and a gear wrench on another. (Swivel head and flex head are different. I'll try and find a pic of the difference in the morning.)
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  #12  
Old 06-07-2017, 06:21 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Over the years, I have pulled the starter on my 784 a few times. I have used all three methods (in place, engine removed, and engine propped up).

With the engine removed, there are far less cuss words.....

With the engine in place, the key is "patience", the right tools, and a expanded vocabulary

With the engine propped up....a compromise between #1 & #2.
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2017, 07:28 AM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy1 View Post
How in the heck do you two get the front left bolt in the tins. It's where the two tins attach together at the bottom front of the engine. Then I believe there is another on the lower blower housing...
Are you two circus contortionists or what?
Or, do you bend the shields all to $hi7 to gain access? Inquiring mind wants to know...
At no point during removing of the starter did I say " Well this isn't so bad"
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  #14  
Old 06-07-2017, 08:38 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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I've done it in frame, it was a pain.
easier to take it out and attend to those udder thins ya'll been wantin' ta doo
like replace some seal or gasket and blowing the chit out of the fins.
replacing a broken/missing cooling shroud bolts or reaching around with air hose and blowing the stator area out, checking the ball in the front rag coupling.
As I say, there ain't no 5 minute jobs, just wishful thinking people.
Maybe tighten/grease the axle pivot,give the area a good cleaning, good time to
tighten yer balls in the steering box, give a 1/4 turn to the cam follower in there also.
Well you get the picture
pro active beats the chit out of reactive every time.
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  #15  
Old 06-07-2017, 08:07 PM
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Tony h Tony h is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfeldmann View Post
How do you replace a starter on a 782 without pulling the engine?
May I ask what your Starter is doing that you feel you need to yank it? I am having starting issues and I am not sure if it's a lack of amperage from my 3 month old battery. My 6 month old Starter Relay not getting enough amperage to the Starter OR the Starter is not giving enough ooomph to turn the Engine sometimes. The Bendix always engages strong but sometimes the engine wont turn, you can hear the Starter hum a bit until finally the Engine Cranks. I thought maybe my points were off causing an Advanced Timing scenario. Not the case, just checked the points. I need to get up there with my car and run jumper cables to the battery and see if more amps makes the problem go away.
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  #16  
Old 06-07-2017, 08:26 PM
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jaynjeep jaynjeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
I've done it in frame, it was a pain.
easier to take it out and attend to those udder thins ya'll been wantin' ta doo
like replace some seal or gasket and blowing the chit out of the fins.
replacing a broken/missing cooling shroud bolts or reaching around with air hose and blowing the stator area out, checking the ball in the front rag coupling.
As I say, there ain't no 5 minute jobs, just wishful thinking people.
Maybe tighten/grease the axle pivot,give the area a good cleaning, good time to
tighten yer balls in the steering box, give a 1/4 turn to the cam follower in there also.
Well you get the picture
pro active beats the chit out of reactive every time.
AGREED 100 percent George!

Well said!
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  #17  
Old 06-07-2017, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony h View Post
May I ask what your Starter is doing that you feel you need to yank it? I am having starting issues and I am not sure if it's a lack of amperage from my 3 month old battery. My 6 month old Starter Relay not getting enough amperage to the Starter OR the Starter is not giving enough ooomph to turn the Engine sometimes. The Bendix always engages strong but sometimes the engine wont turn, you can hear the Starter hum a bit until finally the Engine Cranks. I thought maybe my points were off causing an Advanced Timing scenario. Not the case, just checked the points. I need to get up there with my car and run jumper cables to the battery and see if more amps makes the problem go away.
I chased that same issue a few years ago.. after checking for resistance everywhere that you mentioned I finally gave in and replaced the starter.. the old one was pulling way too many amps... new one works like a champ!

I pulled the engine and did it on the bench.. didn't even try to do it in the frame
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40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets!

Proud owner of the following:
Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer
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  #18  
Old 06-07-2017, 11:14 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony h View Post
May I ask what your Starter is doing that you feel you need to yank it? I am having starting issues and I am not sure if it's a lack of amperage from my 3 month old battery. My 6 month old Starter Relay not getting enough amperage to the Starter OR the Starter is not giving enough ooomph to turn the Engine sometimes. The Bendix always engages strong but sometimes the engine wont turn, you can hear the Starter hum a bit until finally the Engine Cranks. I thought maybe my points were off causing an Advanced Timing scenario. Not the case, just checked the points. I need to get up there with my car and run jumper cables to the battery and see if more amps makes the problem go away.

Check the battery and connections. If the starter is going bad, and you jump it, more amps will definitely help it. The very nature of a bad starter is it draws too many amps, so giving a bad starter more amps via jumping with another battery, or using a battery charger will mask the issue. Jumping it proves nothing really.... Testing components does.
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  #19  
Old 06-07-2017, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I took the hood and grill housing off, then used a swivel head 1/4" drive rachet on one and a gear wrench on another. (Swivel head and flex head are different. I'll try and find a pic of the difference in the morning.)
I know the difference in the two. Just can't picture in my head, how you get the nuts off and on without removing the tins, or bending them all too $hi7
I ain't saying it ain't so, just saying...
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  #20  
Old 06-07-2017, 11:57 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy1 View Post
I know the difference in the two. Just can't picture in my head, how you get the nuts off and on without removing the tins, or bending them all too $hi7
I ain't saying it ain't so, just saying...

Oh, I remove the muffler shroud, and the left side tin. I thought you meant you didn't know how I got the tins off. It's the right side tin that's nearly impossible to get out. Mostly because of the oil lines though.
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