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#11
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I took the hood and grill housing off, then used a swivel head 1/4" drive rachet on one and a gear wrench on another. (Swivel head and flex head are different. I'll try and find a pic of the difference in the morning.)
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#12
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Over the years, I have pulled the starter on my 784 a few times. I have used all three methods (in place, engine removed, and engine propped up).
With the engine removed, there are far less cuss words..... With the engine in place, the key is "patience", the right tools, and a expanded vocabulary With the engine propped up....a compromise between #1 & #2.
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#13
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
#14
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I've done it in frame, it was a pain.
easier to take it out and attend to those udder thins ya'll been wantin' ta doo like replace some seal or gasket and blowing the chit out of the fins. replacing a broken/missing cooling shroud bolts or reaching around with air hose and blowing the stator area out, checking the ball in the front rag coupling. As I say, there ain't no 5 minute jobs, just wishful thinking people. Maybe tighten/grease the axle pivot,give the area a good cleaning, good time to tighten yer balls in the steering box, give a 1/4 turn to the cam follower in there also. Well you get the picture pro active beats the chit out of reactive every time. |
#15
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May I ask what your Starter is doing that you feel you need to yank it? I am having starting issues and I am not sure if it's a lack of amperage from my 3 month old battery. My 6 month old Starter Relay not getting enough amperage to the Starter OR the Starter is not giving enough ooomph to turn the Engine sometimes. The Bendix always engages strong but sometimes the engine wont turn, you can hear the Starter hum a bit until finally the Engine Cranks. I thought maybe my points were off causing an Advanced Timing scenario. Not the case, just checked the points. I need to get up there with my car and run jumper cables to the battery and see if more amps makes the problem go away.
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If I can't fix it , it must not be broken |
#16
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Quote:
Well said!
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Jay 40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets! Proud owner of the following: Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer |
#17
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I pulled the engine and did it on the bench.. didn't even try to do it in the frame
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Jay 40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets! Proud owner of the following: Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer |
#18
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Check the battery and connections. If the starter is going bad, and you jump it, more amps will definitely help it. The very nature of a bad starter is it draws too many amps, so giving a bad starter more amps via jumping with another battery, or using a battery charger will mask the issue. Jumping it proves nothing really.... Testing components does. |
#19
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I ain't saying it ain't so, just saying...
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Make the best of each day , Todd Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
#20
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Oh, I remove the muffler shroud, and the left side tin. I thought you meant you didn't know how I got the tins off. It's the right side tin that's nearly impossible to get out. Mostly because of the oil lines though. |
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