1200 Driveline Issues

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by olds45512

The issue your having with the arm looks normal to me, I usually put a pair of vice grips on the bottom of the arm for leverage and push it back with one arm while I use the other to get the rod through the hole and start the nut.

You shouldn't need to use a tool to get the arm on the rod. Should slide in without using "force".

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Something don't look right.
Pics of OEM shaft.

That looks more like it!

Originally Posted by twoton

There should be 0 play between the trans input yoke and the trans input shaft. In order to install the clutch/drive shaft assembly without unbolting either the engine or the rear end, you must remove the trans input yoke from its shaft, slide it on the drive shaft, engage the 3 pin driver and the front ball bushing with the front of the clutch assembly/ drive shaft, align the drive shaft with the trans shaft and then slide the trans yoke into place. Dont forget the ball bearing.

Good advice.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Good advice.

Wait,..what?!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by twoton

Wait,..what?!

It's black and white to me. Good advice is good, bad advice is bad. I will compliment good advice.... and that was good.

[vr4Legacy]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Are both shafts the same length? If so you can drill a new hole in the proper spot, that will also help out with the situation you're having up front.

Yes, they are the same length, and all the other holes line up. First thing I checked before I put them together. Only difference is the location of the hole at the end of the shaft. I'm not too confident drilling a hole and getting in centered, otherwise I would have tried to make one myself. I'll reach out to Jeff.

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Something don't look right.
Pics of OEM shaft.

Thank you. Confirms the issue with it being too long.

Originally Posted by twoton

There should be 0 play between the trans input yoke and the trans input shaft. In order to install the clutch/drive shaft assembly without unbolting either the engine or the rear end, you must remove the trans input yoke from its shaft, slide it on the drive shaft, engage the 3 pin driver and the front ball bushing with the front of the clutch assembly/ drive shaft, align the drive shaft with the trans shaft and then slide the trans yoke into place. Dont forget the ball bearing.

So, I guess that means my coupler is wore? I tested it with an old driveshaft, and there is quite a bit of play (see pic) on the input side (i'm assuming the input shaft is the same dial as the driveshaft. The shaft fits tight into the busing on the driveshaft side though. Which would explain the vibration. Probably not much I can do to fix it. Perhaps drill it out and put a sleeve in it? Looks like they're still available from cub for $63!

Thanks for the details on removing it without taking the engine out. I don't think the service manual mentions to remove the input yoke, just the bolts on the rag joint. And that sure didn't work.

This 1200 driveline is going to be the death of me. Fortunately the 149 is going strong...

[twoton]

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

... (i'm assuming the (transmission) input shaft is the same diameter as the driveshaft.....

I don't know Jason and I don't have one apart to check, but you should definitely check that trans input shaft for wear before you order any more parts. Good luck to you.

How's the house going?

[vr4Legacy]

Originally Posted by twoton

I don't know Jason and I don't have one apart to check, but you should definitely check that trans input shaft for wear before you order any more parts. Good luck to you.

How's the house going?

Will do. Is it easy to replace if needed?

The house is coming along great. Thanks for asking. I can't believe how quickly it's coming along. Of course now that framing is done, the finish work will seem like it's taking forever.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

..... Is it easy to replace if needed?.....

I don't know Jason, never had to.

House is looking great!

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Yes, they are the same length, and all the other holes line up. First thing I checked before I put them together. Only difference is the location of the hole at the end of the shaft. I'm not too confident drilling a hole and getting in centered, otherwise I would have tried to make one myself. I'll reach out to Jeff.



Thank you. Confirms the issue with it being too long.



So, I guess that means my coupler is wore? I tested it with an old driveshaft, and there is quite a bit of play (see pic) on the input side (i'm assuming the input shaft is the same dial as the driveshaft. The shaft fits tight into the busing on the driveshaft side though. Which would explain the vibration. Probably not much I can do to fix it. Perhaps drill it out and put a sleeve in it? Looks like they're still available from cub for $63!

Thanks for the details on removing it without taking the engine out. I don't think the service manual mentions to remove the input yoke, just the bolts on the rag joint. And that sure didn't work.

This 1200 driveline is going to be the death of me. Fortunately the 149 is going strong...

I'll make sure your driveshaft is either fixed or replaced. I have heavy duty rear couplers too.

Jeff

[vr4Legacy]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

I'll make sure your driveshaft is either fixed or replaced. I have heavy duty rear couplers too.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff.

I never had a doubt.

[vr4Legacy]

I got the old driveshaft apart and laid it next to my old, broken shaft that I believe is correct. I wanted to compare everything, and the middle hole, that holds the spring is different than one shaft I have.

There are 3 shafts pictured, the one on top was in my tractor when I bought it, it had a NF clutch fork on it, but otherwise seemed to work. The 2nd, broken, shaft I bought as an assembly from a 1200 on e-Bay (clutch plates, fork, spring etch). It appears to be all original, so I have no reason to think it isn't right. The bottom shaft is the one I got from Jeff.

Quick background, the middle shaft broke, so I swapped out the top shaft that I had from my tractor originally (but with the wrong fork). It was in my tractor most recently.

As you can see, the first 2 holes line up on all 3, those are for the clutch plates.

The 2nd hole, that holds the spring, lines up across all 3 at approx 9 1/4".

However on the 2nd shaft, the one I bought as an assembly from a 1200 online, has a 3rd hole approx 1.5" further back. This is where the spring was on it. It sits at about 10 5/8" from the driver.

Interestingly enough, neither of those measurements match the pic of a shaft Lew attached. Which is at approx 9 7/8" (3rd pic)

Finally, the last holes line up on the 2 shafts that worked in my 1200.

What is everyone's thoughts on the middle hole where the spring rests? Is the hole that is across all 3 shafts at the rights spot? The clutch worked fine when it was placed there on the top shaft. The only issue I had was vibrations. Which I've now narrowed down to a wobbly input yoke, and an off center hole on the driveshaft.

Also, the hole for the creeper is different between the 3 shafts. Not an issue for my use, but noteworthy

Do I have everyone's head spinning yet? Because mine sure is....