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  #51  
Old 06-17-2016, 06:25 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Figured I'd put this here for now so I can find it latter.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the side panels.

Remove the tunnel cover.

Sand the drive shaft clean in the areas in front of the driveshaft output yoke and the cooling fan. Apply some sort of lubricant such as WD 40 to the driveshaft.

Remove the snap ring in the front recess of the cooling fan and slide it forward on the driveshaft.

While rotating the fan on the driveshaft, move the fan forward about 3 inches.

Put a jack under the rear end and raise the tractor about 3 inches. Put a block between the housing and the jack to distribute the weight.

Install a jack stand between the frame rails and up under the drive shaft, just forward of the driveshaft output yoke, the one that attaches to the rear rag joint.

Rotate the drive shaft so the spirol pin in the transmission input yoke is in the vertical position.

Lower the tractor, using the jack that you have under the rear, until the drive shaft is LIGHTLY! resting on the jack stand. The jack stand MUST be right in front of the driveshaft output yoke. The driveshaft Must be supported well enough that when you drive the spirol pins out you cause no damage to the transmission input bearing.

Now, drive the spirol pin out of the transmission input yoke.

Now drive the spirol pin from the driveshaft output yoke. You may have to raise, rotate, lower to get that pin in an accessible position.

Once both pins are out, raise the tractor with the jack, enough to remove the jack stand.

Rotate the yokes and rag joint assembly about the shaft and move it forward.

Be aware; if you have a single rear rag joint there will be a ball bearing inside the transmission input yoke that aids in driveshaft centering, do not loose this.

Remove the bolts that attach the driveshaft input yoke to the front rag joint.

Remove the driveshaft from the machine.

Replace the fan. Inspect and if needed replace the front rag joint, and the rear rag joint and both front and rear ball bushings.

cooling fan part # IH-547749-R1
rag joint part # 722-3000
ball bushing part #941-3004
5/16” x 1 ¼” coiled spring pins. Mcmaster-carr #91598A526


Put it back together.

Sorry, this is just from memory, and I been drinkin’, so use at your own risk!
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  #52  
Old 01-08-2017, 03:44 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Man, I love this rig for plowing snow! Power angle plow is the best, went through 15" of snow like nuthin'!
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  #53  
Old 01-08-2017, 03:54 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Chains on the rear make all the difference!
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  #54  
Old 06-26-2017, 10:18 PM
rlcea490 rlcea490 is offline
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Cool Cub 1450 low oil over heated

My k321 ran low on oil and stalled. How this happened is another story..(son).
I topped off the oil and now it just spits when trying to start.
Im thinking maybe the valve adjustments are the problem....not sure.
I checked for spark and there is plenty. Fuel is good flow.
Anyone have an idea what may be the issue? Thanks
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  #55  
Old 06-26-2017, 11:44 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Probably broke the connecting rod. Pull the head.

You can't run a motor without oil man. It didn't overheat, it blew up.
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  #56  
Old 06-27-2017, 07:27 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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When you pulled the spark plug and cranked it over, did it have slight compression/suction when you tried to hold your thumb in the plug hole?
If so, it might be a stuck valve.
if not it prolly "done blowed up" as they say in nascar.
What ever happened, it is not good.
Operating rotating things without lubrication has disastrous and costly effects.
a scored cylinder & piston, galled connecting rod and crankshaft amoung other things.
if done @ operating speed, it most always results in a "window" in the side of the block which you can observe the carnage without disassembly of the engine.
Either way, the minimum is removing the head for inspection as Jon suggested.
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  #57  
Old 06-27-2017, 06:07 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlcea490 View Post
My k321 ran low on oil and stalled. How this happened is another story..(son).
I topped off the oil and now it just spits when trying to start.
Im thinking maybe the valve adjustments are the problem....not sure.
I checked for spark and there is plenty. Fuel is good flow.
Anyone have an idea what may be the issue? Thanks
Hmmm.... thats a drag. I think the guys are right, time to get into it. Maybe you should start a thread?
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  #58  
Old 06-27-2017, 07:23 PM
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OldSkull OldSkull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton View Post
Man, I love this rig for plowing snow! Power angle plow is the best, went through 15" of snow like nuthin'!
Power angle plow! I hate you!
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  #59  
Old 04-14-2023, 07:13 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Governor went out of the ol’ boy.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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