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1450 Ignition Switch Terminal Melted
Hello, my 1st post after lurking for awhile. Lots of good info here.
Battery not charging, saw the proper voltage at the regulator, not good voltage at the battery. So I have been running and charging the battery for some time. Finally took the time to dig into the problem and saw melted and corroded wires at one of the terminals on the switch. It looked like terminal A on the switch was the most fried. I think when I replace the switch and the wires I will add a fuse or a resettable breaker, as I think this may be a symptom and not the actual problem. Question to the group is.. 1. Has anyone else seen this issue 2. What could cause it..I know a short might do it Thanks for looking.. |
#2
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pretty common , when they get old sometimes the terminal loosens up and has poor contact which makes more heat
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#3
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Like Dale C posted ...it is common. The terminal gets corroded...corrosion creates high resistance and heat...melting occurs. Replace the switch and repair the wiring. Double check functions.
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Queen Of The Quietlines! |
#4
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Quote:
No, you don't need another fuse. Look at the diagram you posted.... there is a fuse already in the system. The damage you see is just as Dale said: a product of poor connection and heat. Adding a fuse will do NOTHING to prevent it from happening again. |
#5
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Thanks for the replies, I'm off to Houtz in Elburn to get some parts..
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#6
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Well Houtz doesnt take walk ins I guess, I drove out there after a sales call in Rockford and it surely didnt look like they were a business.
Next day found a Cub Cadet Dealer in Princeton...Diller Rod they had a switch..exactly the one I needed. Put it in over the weekend...now the circuit from the B+ on the regulator/rectifier measured .3 Ohms to B+ on the battery, so the switch circuit is repaired and working as expected but still no voltage from the middle leg of the rectifier. Verify 28 Volts AC from Stator at 3600 RPM, Verify ground from engine case to frame...wait its rusty..hmm. So I clean up ground wire and add a wire direct from the mounting bolt of the rectifier to the frame and presto..14.2 volts dc at the battery...there is a slight voltage drop from the rectifier to the battery which I attribute to 40 year old wiring. So the issue was multiple problems, bad regulator/rectifier and bad engine to frame ground. Now on to my very jerky hydro. It almost throws me onto the hood when I move the lever to the center, if I have good traction I can do wheelies.. Thanks for the help on this one....
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1975 Cub Cadet 1450 1997 Range Rover |
#7
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enbruchman- can you please tell me where you bought your ignition switch and/or the part number? I have the exact same problem with my 1450 and need a new switch ASAP.
Thanks! |
#8
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According to the Parts Manual, you will need: IH-61524-C3 Ignition Switch.
It can be had at your local Cub Cadet or Case/IH Dealer(s). You can also contact the Sponsors at the top of the page. And as always, there are numerous sources on the Internet.
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
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1450, charging system |
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