Project 1811......thinning the herd

[jbrewer]

Originally Posted by garydee

Never seen anyone turn their tractor on its side before to power wash it. Probably was the best way to get rid of all the grime on it though...

I lift the front axle of mine with an engine hoist till almost vertical for the same chore.

[ol'George]

X -2 on lifting the front vertical to clean.

[johnwd98]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Hard to believe they survive that kind of cooling blockage, but they do.

Proof that a little paint on the hydro pump won't cause over heating?

[garydee]

Hydros are made of aluminum/cast white metal with the fins left unpainted when new for a reason. To dissipate heat! Seems silly to paint it to make it look pretty when you don't see it. Keeping it clean and unpainted will insure a longer life.

The best way to keep your rig in top condition after mowing is to blow everything off with compressed air after each use. Wash it when really dirty or at the end of the season. Observe any oil leaks from the engine and promptly fix them. Little problems unattended to often turn into big problems!

[Oak]

Pulled the covers to check the valve lash.

The book says I need .003/.006 for the intake and .016/.019 for the exhaust

This is cylinder #1 (right side) when in the seat.

IMG-6919.jpg

The exhaust is the one with the black crusty stuff and it has 0 lash.
The intake has .007

Here is cylinder #2

IMG-6920.jpg

The exhaust and intake both are at .005

So I'm thinking pull the valves, remove springs and lap the seats and then grind for proper clearance. Is this the correct thing to do? What do I grind the stems with?

Here is OCC member jsoluna with an awesome vid. I enjoy watching all your vids J.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RETj93hBS_Q&t=1390s

[ol'George]

Sadly with equipment you might not have.
I use a tool post grinder on my lathe, or the V block on my valve grinder especially made for grinding stems.
Or milling the stem end on my Bridgeport mill
all these procedures will keep the end of the stem flat which is desirable.
Also you will need new valve stem seals.
They are outrageous priced if specified for kohler --- but the same as old ford 6 cylinder engines in early 60's mustangs at about a dollar fifty cents each at auto parts.
fit the stem clearance correctly before you install the new seals.
The seals are installed as the last thing you do before slipping on the springs/keepers.
Do take caution slipping the valve stem into the seal as you don't want to nick them on the keeper groove.
They usually provide a plastic condom to put over the stem end to allow it to slip easily into the seal without damage.
If not provided one can use one wrap of cellophane tape.
liberal use of lubricant is helpful to prevent nicking.

[jsoluna]

Thanks for posting the video, Oak. I try to do that when I can so people know it's out there.

I find the Mag twins pretty enjoyable to work on. I ground my valves with a stone on a piston ring filer, then followed up with some sandpaper to get the surface finish better. Not ideal, but it works. If you have the choice between .000 lash and a not perfectly squared end on the stem, I'd go with some lash, at least the valve will seal.

X2 on the valve seals...especially the OEM ones with the PTFE/nylon insert. I haven't gouged one when installing properly, but I have sliced one when I forgot not to pull the valve back out after final seal installation.

Double check the exhaust guides for wear. I installed a new guide on the last one I rebuilt, it isn't too terrible since the jugs can be set up in a press.