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  #41  
Old 12-01-2012, 08:42 PM
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IliketheRedcubs IliketheRedcubs is offline
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[QUOTE=Sam Mac;162525]
Quote:
Originally Posted by IliketheRedcubs View Post
Question, where do you find depends large enough for a super?[/QUOTE

Wal-Mart
EEWW!!
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982 with 3 PH, rear pto, front & rear hydrs & ps, 1772 w/3 point, rear PTO, 86, 2 Haban 60" decks, Haban 54" snow/dirt blade, Brinly Cat 0 Disk, 5' blade & 2 Cat 0 Plows, SpeeCo Cat 0 plow, Sears cat 0 Cultivator, Cat 0 CC 442 Tiller, 60” rear mower, 450 blower
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  #42  
Old 09-30-2016, 05:26 PM
taylorjm taylorjm is offline
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Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Had a fun day working on my 2182. Got to use the Haban easy deck removal tool. Makes taking the early style Haban decks off a breeze. It’s a little pricy but it works awesome. Then I pulled the rear and pump out. I thought the cork gasket was the cause of my oil leak but now it looks like the seal on the trunnion shaft is shot. So not only do I have to replace the cracked front cover but I have to disassemble the pump to replace the seal. At this point I have decided to replace every seal and be done with it. I have a couple ideas on how to beef up the mounting for the fragile aluminum rear that is prone to breaking. Have to see how that goes. Got the rear cleaned up, on the bench and ready for surgery.
Hey sam, I know this is an old thread, but how hard was it to remove the rear end? I have a beam and electric hoist that can do the heavy lifting, but it looks like mainly the bolts to the frame, brakes, the drive shaft to the pump, maybe some cables?
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  #43  
Old 09-30-2016, 06:59 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Once you have the fender pan and fuel tank removed it's not a big deal. Remove the 4 bolts that connect the drive shaft, disconnect the linkage, 4 bolts that go through the frame into the axle tubes, remove the front supports for the trans (4 bolts through the frame and 4 bolts on the front adapter housing) disconnect the brakes and roll it out. PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send you the Cyclops service manual.

More stuff for you to read.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33244
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  #44  
Old 04-18-2018, 03:51 PM
racerock racerock is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Got the rear apart, cleaned it up somewhat. Every one of these that I have worked on has a buildup of nasty stuff from condensation in the bottom of the axle tubes so since this is my own tractor I decided to drill a couple oil return holes in the main case to allow the condensation to drain into the bottom of the trans circled in red. This should allow for better results when changing the oil, or it will blow its guts out. Hope to get the gear case re-assembled in the next day or two. Need to order seals and then I’ll open the pump. One thing that I find odd is that the pump does not have the hole in the bottom for a case drain. Have any of you guys seen one without the drain hole? The gasket and the front cover do have the hole.
Sam, resurrecting this post from a while ago. Very good pix and advice on the forum. Been on here for a while. Also read the help you provided Steve on his very nice rebuild. Used some of your pix/advice to drop the rear on one of my 2182's. It is weeping at the axle housing to diff case. On the fence to pull the pump off and redo that gasket. Not a big deal to pull it again if needed, which is why I'm on the fence.

This group of pictures along with Sams work and pix on his 2182 Rebuild that started from a parts tractor helped me confirm the gears and C-clips need to come off to get the pump off.

I'll try to host and post pix of mine. I ended up using my floor jack to first drop/remove the rear onto a small Harbor Freight furniture Dolly then lift the rear of the 2182 enough to clear the dipstick tube.

SO:
- I think your answer will be yes, but... If the pump is not leaking would you go ahead and replace that gasket?
- Make your own out of good gasket material or buy one?
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  #45  
Old 04-18-2018, 04:35 PM
taylorjm taylorjm is offline
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I went through the rear end of mine using sam's instructions last year and I would replace the cork gasket if I was you since you will have it out of the tractor on the bench. Definitely buy a new one, don't try and make it. Then pull the axle housings and replace with new gaskets and drill the oil return holes like in the pictures. Drilling a vent in the top of the case will make refilling it a whole lot better too. If you take your time it's not hard. Scraping the old gasket material is the most tedious part. I know it was described on here about using a die grinder and a flexible sanding disk, but I would never do that again. Too easy to take too much off and it was a pain getting everything back to a nice even mating surface. Oh, and don't forget new oil seals on the axles. I replaced the axle bearings too since they were only $13 each.
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  #46  
Old 04-18-2018, 04:47 PM
taylorjm taylorjm is offline
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Pictures from my rebuild
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2016-11-29 10.09.04.jpg (30.8 KB, 238 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-12-01 12.14.26.jpg (35.6 KB, 237 views)
File Type: jpg 2016-12-05 13.26.59.jpg (20.9 KB, 237 views)
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  #47  
Old 04-19-2018, 08:32 PM
racerock racerock is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylorjm View Post
I went through the rear end of mine using sam's instructions last year and I would replace the cork gasket if I was you since you will have it out of the tractor on the bench. Definitely buy a new one, don't try and make it. Then pull the axle housings and replace with new gaskets and drill the oil return holes like in the pictures. Drilling a vent in the top of the case will make refilling it a whole lot better too. If you take your time it's not hard. Scraping the old gasket material is the most tedious part. I know it was described on here about using a die grinder and a flexible sanding disk, but I would never do that again. Too easy to take too much off and it was a pain getting everything back to a nice even mating surface. Oh, and don't forget new oil seals on the axles. I replaced the axle bearings too since they were only $13 each.
Thank you. Good advice, appreciated.
- Mine has a factory vent on the top. Never had a real problem, will make sure that is clear.
Guess I'll go ahead and source a few more parts, but might wait til it is apart.
Cleaned everything up last night. Balancing this work with about 8 other projects
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  #48  
Old 06-06-2018, 03:09 PM
racerock racerock is offline
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Default Hydrostatic Pump to Differential Gasket

As an update for those that are using this thread as reference:
- Picked up the Hydro Pump to Rear Diff Housing gasket (technically my daughter was the parts runner)
- CC921-3004
- Well advised to change it, in stock locally only about $6 with MD Tax
- Mine was well compressed in some areas and appeared very likely to leak soon
- Gasket has some self adhesive on it to keep it in place during the install
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