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#41
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[QUOTE=Sam Mac;162525]EEWW!!
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982 with 3 PH, rear pto, front & rear hydrs & ps, 1772 w/3 point, rear PTO, 86, 2 Haban 60" decks, Haban 54" snow/dirt blade, Brinly Cat 0 Disk, 5' blade & 2 Cat 0 Plows, SpeeCo Cat 0 plow, Sears cat 0 Cultivator, Cat 0 CC 442 Tiller, 60” rear mower, 450 blower |
#42
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#43
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Once you have the fender pan and fuel tank removed it's not a big deal. Remove the 4 bolts that connect the drive shaft, disconnect the linkage, 4 bolts that go through the frame into the axle tubes, remove the front supports for the trans (4 bolts through the frame and 4 bolts on the front adapter housing) disconnect the brakes and roll it out. PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send you the Cyclops service manual.
More stuff for you to read. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33244
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#44
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This group of pictures along with Sams work and pix on his 2182 Rebuild that started from a parts tractor helped me confirm the gears and C-clips need to come off to get the pump off. I'll try to host and post pix of mine. I ended up using my floor jack to first drop/remove the rear onto a small Harbor Freight furniture Dolly then lift the rear of the 2182 enough to clear the dipstick tube. SO: - I think your answer will be yes, but... If the pump is not leaking would you go ahead and replace that gasket? - Make your own out of good gasket material or buy one? |
#45
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I went through the rear end of mine using sam's instructions last year and I would replace the cork gasket if I was you since you will have it out of the tractor on the bench. Definitely buy a new one, don't try and make it. Then pull the axle housings and replace with new gaskets and drill the oil return holes like in the pictures. Drilling a vent in the top of the case will make refilling it a whole lot better too. If you take your time it's not hard. Scraping the old gasket material is the most tedious part. I know it was described on here about using a die grinder and a flexible sanding disk, but I would never do that again. Too easy to take too much off and it was a pain getting everything back to a nice even mating surface. Oh, and don't forget new oil seals on the axles. I replaced the axle bearings too since they were only $13 each.
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Pictures from my rebuild
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- Mine has a factory vent on the top. Never had a real problem, will make sure that is clear. Guess I'll go ahead and source a few more parts, but might wait til it is apart. Cleaned everything up last night. Balancing this work with about 8 other projects |
#48
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Hydrostatic Pump to Differential Gasket
As an update for those that are using this thread as reference:
- Picked up the Hydro Pump to Rear Diff Housing gasket (technically my daughter was the parts runner) - CC921-3004 - Well advised to change it, in stock locally only about $6 with MD Tax - Mine was well compressed in some areas and appeared very likely to leak soon - Gasket has some self adhesive on it to keep it in place during the install |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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