1811 hydro coupler roll pin removal ..?

tgb24 · #1 01-22-2018, 09:50 AM

O.k I'm getting close to fixing the lip seal on my 1811 hydro pump.

When Im driving out the roll pin closest to the pump is it ok to have the support for the driveshaft on the other side of the flex coupling or should it be closer to the pump. It's very tight in there.

Any other tips or stuff I need to look out for would be great. I have the correct roll punches.

Thank you

finsruskw · #2 01-22-2018, 10:02 AM

Got 'spirol' pins?
They are what you need.
ordinary 'roll' pins won't cut it, for very long that is.

J-Mech · #3 01-22-2018, 02:15 PM

Don't get too hung up on supporting the shaft. Yeah, putting another hammer up in there, or a block of wood cut just right is helpful, and not a bad thing. But it's not likely you will hurt the shaft. You would have to beat pretty hard to bend/damage it.

You talk about supporting the driveshaft..... I don't know how you plan to change the seal with it installed. Needs to be out, so you can get the coupler off the trans input shaft to put in a seal.

tgb24 · #4 01-22-2018, 04:39 PM

Thanks - I plan to support the shaft while knocking both pins out . Then slide the fan back and push the now released coupling back as far as it will go. This should give me enough room to get the pump housing off and away without taking the whole driveshaft out. I could probably get the seal out without moving the front but wanted to look inside also and check the bearing etc.. im sure I've read that this method is another way to do it. I'm happy to stand corrected though . The supporting of the drive shaft was mentioned in the service manual when driving out the pin closest to the fan ....I was just concerned with the 2 Nd pin closer to the pump and if any further support was needed closer to it.

Thanks

ol'George · #5 01-22-2018, 07:40 PM

I'd support the pump shaft as close to the pump as you can.
A hydraulic jack works well.
The bearing in the pump can become brinelled if you don't.
https://www.google.com/search?q=brin...hrome&ie=UTF-8
Also pay attention of the way you remove the charge pump if you remove it.
On the 2 mounting bolt ears, one has a milled flat on one side.
Make sure you reinstall it the same way or the pump will not pump.

tgb24 · #6 09-25-2018, 09:04 PM

So ..I finally got to take the charge pump off and see what was going on. There is some play to the input shaft when I wiggle it so it looks like the ball bushing has worn out. I've got a new lip seal ready to install and I have a needle bearing for the pump on order. I'm not holding out much hope for it to hold oil when I put it back together . There is not a lot of movement , Im getting about 1/128" max deflection of the shaft around where the seal is - it's not clear whether the bad ball bushing caused the seal to eventually fail or the movement is enough to cause a perfectly good seal to leak. Got another needle bearing on order before I put her back together and find out . I guess my only option is to split the tractor to get to that ball bushing out and replace it.

Thanks Tom

J-Mech · #7 09-25-2018, 09:10 PM

A wobbly drive shaft wears out the bearing, thus causing the shaft to move and the seal to leak. Or, the seal simply wore out. It's one of the two. But a wobbly shaft didn't take out the seal. Bearing maybe. Check the input shaft on the pump. When the drive shaft is out of balance, it causes the input shaft on the hydro to wear egg shaped. When that happens, you need to just find another good used hydro unit.

tgb24 · #8 09-25-2018, 10:16 PM

Thanks Jonathon . The input shaft looks pretty circular along with the holes in the rag joint coupling .

It's not a lot of movement and it might be fine with the new seal, but I would like to get it permanently fixed eventually .

Thanks again

Tom

J-Mech · #9 09-25-2018, 10:22 PM

I'm not sure we are on the same page.
I'm talking the input shaft of the hydro. The charge pump has to be off to see the area I'm talking about. This has nothing to do with the flex disc, flex disc coupler, or the driveshaft.

tgb24 · #10 09-25-2018, 10:48 PM

No , I think we are on the same page, I have the charge pump off and the input shaft is sticking out. Its not egg shaped and is round .You said a misaligned drive shaft coupled to the input shaft would cause it to be egg shaped so then the hole of the coupled attachment with the spiral pin would also be egg shaped..that's all I was trying to say, sorry just didn't explain it well..anyhow, the input shaft is round!...could the bearing have just worn out even with a perfectly aligned shaft...seems plausible as its a 30 year old machine after all?