PLEASE HELP! Drive Shaft model 1862

[RICROB78]

I bought a used drive shaft to replace the one thats wore out on my cub cadet 1862. I need to know the best way to replace drive shaft. I have heard you have to take engine out to do it? I hope this is not true! All the help I can get will help me out. this is my first cub cadet! THANKS

[Bugjunkie66]

You say your drive shaft is worn out. What is wrong with it? These drive shafts can take a lot of punishment before they give up the ghost. I would guess you can refurbish the one you have unless the ball pockets are just eroded away to the point the whole shaft is loose.
As far as installing a new one, no you do not have to remove the engine but there are lots of things that can be removed to facilitate a easier install. Start by taking the hood, side panels and front grill housing off. Then you can remove / loosen the 4 engine mount bolts and slide the engine forward just a bit to allow enough clearance to change the drive shaft.
When you get the new one installed, be sure and grease it annually and make sure the rubber boots are in-tact with no cracks or tears. Put a wire tie around the rubber boot where it extends onto the drive shaft to make a good seal.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[Bugjunkie66]

Here is a photo of how it should look from the engine side, the other end at the hydro pump will be the same. Note how the wire tie is installed. This keeps the seal to the shaft secure and holds grease in and dirt out.

[Sam Mac]

Remove the 4 socket head bolts form the transmission end and the 4 on the engine and you can remove it without moving the engine. Just have to fuss with it a bit but once it's free from the trans you should be good.

[Dirty Steve]

Make sure the rubber boots are intact on both ends of the shaft. I have removed the hydro filter before to gain more wiggle room while installing the shaft. If you can remove everything and clean out all the old grease, you'll be way ahead of the game.

If you need new steel balls and time is on your side:

http://www.vxb.com/10-5-8-inch-Diame...-p/kit8598.htm

This place is WAY cheaper than the cub price.

[RICROB78]

I know their are grease fittings on drive shaft, we are the others you were referring too? Just keep putting in new grease till old comes out?

[Dirty Steve]

http://tinyurl.com/jfeewnm

Here is the parts breakdown of the drive shaft. If you have the tools take it apart and clean each half of the CV style joint. There is a snap ring on each end of the shaft. Probably would replace the snap rings if you are taking them off. Allen wrenches to get the four coupler bolts loose. Even if you did not have the tools these tools are not expensive to purchase. The old grease inside the CV joint halves is usually hard and nasty. They generally clean up very nice with gasoline once they are apart. There is an o-ring between the halves. Some say replace it, some say reuse if intact. That is your call. The dust boots must be replaced if they are compromised or failure is eminent. If the plastic cooling fan on the shaft is cracked, broke, or compromised in anyway replace it now. Take note of the direction it faces. This is not a huge job if you take is slow and follow the diagram.

There is a 400 page service manual for this series. PM me an email address and I could send it to you.

I am no expert and I hope others with better info chime in. But if I can do it, give it a try. You should do fine.

[Dirty Steve]

The $64,000 question is: Just what happened to the original drive shaft? Do you have any pictures of what failed? If it failed at the coupler that bolts to the hydro, things could be much worse for you......