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#1
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K341 cam and head replacement
I rebuilt my K341 93 hours ago. While mowing this last time it seemed sluggish while mowing and i started tweaking the carb. Well I shut it off and it never started again. I checked the timing and it was all wonky with the marks. Long story short the engine is out now. The head gasket is toast, several of the bolts were loose. There was nothing blocking airflow. The flywheel key was sheared. I’m pretty sure I put antiseze on the tapered surface fore ease of removal. Obviously didn't read that part in the manual. It had been starting hard for a little while now. So I checked the ACR and it was at .023 instead of the .031-.041 I knew the tab on my cam was the hardened unadjustable type but I tried anyway. Well it snapped so I am getting an older cam that is adjustable. Now for a couple questions
I don’t know if I trust the head bolts. Is it ok to use the same size grade 8 bolts with the thick washers? I will be lapping the head on a surface plate. I hear some people using sealers on the gasket. Any truth to that? After torqueing it down and I get it started again what is the best run in/retorque procedure? I know I have to take the crank out to get the cam out. Can I just get the piston at TDC and remove the endcap and be able to get the crank out? I would rather not remove the piston and rod if I don’t have to. Can I leave the valves in and be able to get the cam out? Or should I go ahead and pull the valves while I’m at it and relap them. I had the seats redone and new valves only 93 hrs ago. Retorquing the rod cap scares me. IDK why I just have fears of it coming loose. The manual calls for oil on the threads and 200in lbs for used posi-lock nuts. Is that all there is to it? No locktite or anything? I think that is all the questions for now.
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1979 1650, #1 tiller with one extension, 90 degree box mounted, 3 point. 1961 4 digit bringing back to life. I have the mower and 3 pint for it. The 1650 is the fastest mower in the neighborhood. |
#2
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Yes you can roll the engine to tdc and remove the crank. Yes you can leave the valves in and remove the cam.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#3
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Sounds to me like you didn't tighten the flywheel nut/bolt, or retorque the head after run in. Better read the manual this time around.
I put anti-seize on the crank for the flywheel. Never had a one come loose. None of the ACR tabs were "adjustable". Some are harder than others. Don't bet the cam you are getting can be "adjusted". |
#4
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i have at the pdf of the kohler manual that i consulted. as well as the IH manuals. its been 5 years ago so dont remember the details exactly i do remember taking the tins, as well as my fuel tank off to retorque the head. I'm a machinist so I'm pretty anal about torque values and measurements. i do know i only retorqued it once though. the flywheel IDK what happened. they surfaces have been lapped together know to get rid of any galling so they are ready to get back together. adjustable may be the wrong word. the manual says that prior to 9006118 the ACR can be checked and readjusted. figured i would have a better chance with that than mine which was above that range.
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1979 1650, #1 tiller with one extension, 90 degree box mounted, 3 point. 1961 4 digit bringing back to life. I have the mower and 3 pint for it. The 1650 is the fastest mower in the neighborhood. |
#5
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None of the ACR tabs were "adjustable". Some are harder than others. Don't bet the cam you are getting can be "adjusted".[/QUOTE]
I have an older manual from the late 70's that talks about the tabs and that you can adjust them . and it does state the hardend ones shouldn't be adjusted for fear of breaking. I haven't broken one yet , must just be lucky but I figure what to heck, if you have to change the cam out its worth a try. as for flywheel tapers, I like to put them on dry, the taper is what holds the wheel to the crank , not the key. the key just times the wheel to the crank so you can use the timing mark. in a good stocker motor that puts out 30 ft lbs of torque I locktite the flywheel onto the taper.
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scan in the QR code (upper left) or text IHCC to 51660 to follow which shows and pulls we will be attending. |
#6
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...... I locktite the flywheel onto the taper.[/QUOTE]
Blue or red? |
#7
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You planning to build a motor that makes 30ft lbs torque?
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#8
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Bahahaha! Yeah John. In my spare time.
Just curious... Not using never seize tho... |
#9
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red. if you use it be warned. they don't come off easy
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scan in the QR code (upper left) or text IHCC to 51660 to follow which shows and pulls we will be attending. |
#10
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