LED lights will not finish lighting up????

[R Bedell]

Kawell: Model NO.: K7-7318

[R Bedell]

I went to their Web Site looking for instructions and found NOTHING.

[Mountain Heritage]

Yes, that's the right model. Okay, so its not just me!

Notice on their website under FAQ:
Q: Light works, but a row of led cannot work (or part lights of led are dim).
A: It caused by lack of power on your battery. Please power full your battery and try it again.

Yeah, how about if it doesn't hardly light at all!!! I put a brand new battery in this less than 2 weeks ago, just under 500 cca from TSC. Their "gold" series.

I fired up the tractor and ran the lights too, after the tractor had been running for about 20 minutes before I hooked up the lights. I know the battery isn't bad. Cranks over the Mag 20 with ease.

[Shotgun Wedding]

Are you wiring all lights in parallel? If even one is in series with another, voltage is divided....which you don't want. They must be in parallel so current is divided and voltage is equal at 12v across all loads.

LEDs are polarity sensitive, either they light or not. Dimly lit is still correct polarity but sounds like voltage is reduced by a series connection instead of parallel

Resistors for auto LED's are usually to trick canbus systems into thinking it's still an incandescent bulb without faulting. You will not need resistors on a cub!

[curtm]

Mike, go direct to a battery and try, there would be no need for a resistor unless you built them your self, the resistor would only be needed to provide a Voltage drop or create resistance in the circuit for a flasher etc,which you do not need, also the specs show 9v min, if you give them 12v they should work, also try reversing polarity, if still no go send them back
I back live South of Aylmer Ont, were you at ??

[Mountain Heritage]

They are wired parallel. I ran 14ga wire from battery to toggle switch, then to the indicator light, then from there up the cab corner to the first rear LED light. I then used this type of connector:

http://www.gardnerbender.com/en/10-100

to tap into the line from the switch to run to the 2nd rear light. I did the same thing at the front. Used the same connector off the line from the toggle switch to the first light and it continued onto the 2nd front light.

Curtm, I am near South Mountain, the Brockville, Ottawa, Cornwall triangle. Middle of farm land. Soon to be the next plains of Ontario. Everyone and their dog keeps cutting down tree lines and bushes to turn it into farm land. Heck, I am a farmer and I can't understand what they are doing it for! Can see the Dirty 30's happening all over again!

[john hall]

Sounds like you already are on track for troubleshooting. Heres a pic of what 4 LED lights on my combine look like, lowest power and cheapest I could find off Amazon. I can only imagine what yours will be like reflecting off snow, you may need sunglasses!

[R Bedell]

#16-#14 AWG (2 mm²) Tap Splice Part # 10-100

It's not my intent to hurt your feelings, but IMHO, those connectors are JUNK. In every case that I run into them, I cut them out and throw them away. 100% chance of poor, high resistance, and/or corroded connection(s)

Attached is a Wiring Diagram. I connect wires at a "Device" using (A) a piggy back crimp connector, or a "push on" piggy back connector. See Images.

If I have to connect in the middle of a wire, I use (A) Closed End Crimp connector, or (B) a traditional wire nut. See image

When using a "crimp tool" make sure it is a good one, and makes a solid crimp. I much prefer the Crimp Tool that makes a "dimple" as opposed to the "squeeze" type.

You can always solder these type of connectors onto the wire also. Just get the "non-insulated" version.

BTW: These electrical connectors are available at any well equipped Auto Parts Store, as well as 1000's of places on line.

Either way you choose to go, will POSITIVELY guarantee you will have a correct and solid connection.

[titleist1]

+2 on the low voltage at the LED causing the small dim dot of light. Reverse polarity will not light at all. I have rigged up LED's for props and I can get the small dim dot to show up by shorting the 12v with my finger (non sweaty) across the wires so it doesn't take much voltage to get that.

In addition to the wiring checks, the switch could be bad, not making good contact.

[Mountain Heritage]

Tried the jumper wire method from the battery last night quickly, got it! Clipped to the positive terminal and touched it on the red wire to the first light, and we had LIGHT! Wow, them suckers are bright! So now I get to figure out what it is that is causing the problem. Has to be a connector and not the switch because the rear lights stay lit all the time. And they run off the same line.

Oh what fun!