1811 Magnum 18 ignition module

[Fetzfarm]

Looking for some advice on a no spark issue before I spend the money on an ignition module. I made an ignition system tester with the clips/wire/spare spark plugs and tested the ignition module per the service manual instructions. I have spark if I disconnect the small white wire located between the spark plug wires on the ignition module, but if it's connected to the ignition module, I have no spark.

I tested the module primary per service manual instructions. That was 1.4 ohms, which I believe is within spec. When I tested the module secondary, I have 0 ohms. It calls for 22000-44000. The test looks simple enough, just put the leads from my meter into the spark plug wires.

If the ignition module is bad (indicated by 0 ohms on the secondary), will it still be able to produce a spark with the small white "primary" wire disconnected? Should I start looking for shorts or should I just replace the ignition module? Did I somehow miss something when I tested the ignition module secondary?

Both the brake pedal safety switch and seat safety switch were disabled by connecting the wires together by the previous owner. I just finished a refresh on the engine with grinding/new valves, new piston and rings, head gaskets, etc on the engine and rebuilt the starter. I dropped the engine back into the tractor with out any tin on it for better access to the electrical components to test for spark. The voltage regulator/rectifier is not hooked up at all, I assumed it wouldn't need to be to test the ignition module.

Thank you for your time!!

Gabe

[olds45512]

If you have spark with the wire unhooked but non with it hooked up then I would suspect a wiring issue or an ignition switch.

[R Bedell]

if you have spark with the wire unhooked but non with it hooked up then i would suspect a wiring issue or an ignition switch.

ditto.....

[RLause]

The white wire is the kill wire. Sounds like it might be shorted somewhere.

[Fetzfarm]

Great point you guys, thank you. I'm leaning toward the ignition switch. I replaced the ignition switch with a stens 430-583 switch. When I ordered it online it said it would fit cub cadet 725-3026, which is the part number I got off partstree.com. The old switch was worn out to the point that the key wouldn't stay in, unfortunately I threw it in the trash last week. Would've been nice to see what the back of the switch looked like.

The old switch had 4 positions, off, run, run with lights on, and start. The new stens switch only had 3 positions off, run, and start. It couldn't even get power to the starter or the PTO. I thew in an old switch I had laying around from a wide frame (same 3 positions as the stens). It got power to the starter, PTO, and spark plugs with the wire disconnected from the "kill terminal" on the ignition module with the old wideframe switch.

Does anyone have the correct part number for a 4 position switch for an 1811?

Thanks!!

Gabe

[Alvy]

725-3026 key switch is what cub cadet says it is. Should have 5 terminals

[R Bedell]

Order and install the correct Ignition Switch.....725-3026.

Stens is/was a bad cross reference.

[Fetzfarm]

I found a used ignition on ebay from an 1812, hopefully that works. I also heard you can move some of the wires around in the wire harness to get the winning combination. I'll try the ignition switch first and go from there. Thank you guys very much for your help!!

Thanks,

Gabe

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Fetzfarm

I found a used ignition on ebay from an 1812, hopefully that works. I also heard you can move some of the wires around in the wire harness to get the winning combination. I'll try the ignition switch first and go from there. Thank you guys very much for your help!!

Thanks,

Gabe

Seriously your going to buy a used switch? New switch is like $25.00 https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/m...-ignition.html

[R Bedell]

I also heard you can move some of the wires around in the wire harness to get the winning combination

NOPE...not true.