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  #21  
Old 09-19-2017, 10:29 PM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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It doesn't need rebuilt. when the piston goes up it pulls air into the crankcase and when it goes down it forces it back out, that's what the breather is for. The air will take the path of least resistance which is why so much air comes out when the dipstick is removed. The breather can't work when the dipstick hole is wide open.
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  #22  
Old 09-19-2017, 11:32 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
I see green paint, musta been in a green thing. Definitely not an original k161 in it.
I saw that too. I agree.


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Originally Posted by sgraber View Post
I will try widening those two fins on the dipstick to see if that'll help keep it in there. If not, I might just buy a replacement dipstick as there's a lot of slop when I move it around. It should fit in there tight, which it doesn't.
The "fins" are there to hold the dipstick straight in the block. That way it doesn't get into anything rotating. The o-ring/rubber bushing at the top holds it in.


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Yep, I knew I needed new gaskets as these tore pretty badly when I removed the parts. I quick put it back together to see if it fixed my oil dipstick problem (which it didn't). I'll pick up two for the breather, one for the carb, and one for the air cleaner.
You need them whether you tore them or not. They are cork, and turn hard after they have been heated up and cooled several times. Even if you had just replaced them, they typically won't seal up after you remove them. BTDT. I get gaskets from my local O'Reilly's. Prime line is usually cheaper.
DO NOT use silicone on the gaskets. It can plug the drain hole on the breather. Seen that several times. Install them dry. You can glue the gasket to the lid, and the reed retainer plate with a dab of silicone on the top corner.... but I suggest something like weatherstip adhesive or even glue. Just holds it in place while you install everything.


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Originally Posted by sgraber View Post
Oh, the reed valve isn't stuck shut. I checked that this time around. Should I replace that filter media in the breather housing with new filter media? I've read some people use 3M scotchbrite pad pieces as replacement parts?
Good deal the valve isn't stuck. Make sure you install it right when you go back together.
That filter media isn't critical. Just designed to catch oil and keep it from dripping out the breather. If it falls apart, you can replace it. Don't use Scotchbrite pads. That's a bad idea. They are sanding pads and have "grit" on them. You want that getting into your engine? I use furnace filter material. Steel wool (without soap on it) will also work.


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Originally Posted by sgraber View Post
FYI I posted this question also on the farmallcub.com forum and the first poster said I needed a full engine rebuild as I was getting blow-by. Thoughts?
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
It doesn't need rebuilt. when the piston goes up it pulls air into the crankcase and when it goes down it forces it back out, that's what the breather is for. The air will take the path of least resistance which is why so much air comes out when the dipstick is removed. The breather can't work when the dipstick hole is wide open.
Tim is correct.

It may have excessive blow by...... but if that motor truly had enough blow by to blow the dipstick out..... it wouldn't run. Your dipstick retainer is just bad. Good thing to take the breather out and check/clean it anyway. As you found, the hole was plugged.
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  #23  
Old 09-20-2017, 08:18 PM
sgraber sgraber is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I saw that too. I agree.
Any thoughts on what tractor it might have come from? I'm assuming a John Deere if it's green.



Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
You need them whether you tore them or not. They are cork, and turn hard after they have been heated up and cooled several times. Even if you had just replaced them, they typically won't seal up after you remove them. BTDT. I get gaskets from my local O'Reilly's. Prime line is usually cheaper.
So O'Reilly's carries the K181 gaskets (carb and breather) or do you buy a sheet of cork from there and cut your own?
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  #24  
Old 09-20-2017, 08:58 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Any thoughts on what tractor it might have come from? I'm assuming a John Deere if it's green.
It's not JD green. Looks like army green to me....



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Originally Posted by sgraber View Post
So O'Reilly's carries the K181 gaskets (carb and breather) or do you buy a sheet of cork from there and cut your own?
They carry them. They don't stock them, but they can order them. Sometimes it's just as cheap to get the Kohler gaskets as it is Prime Line. You will likely have to give them part numbers, depending on how good the parts guys are at your store.
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  #25  
Old 09-21-2017, 09:53 AM
sgraber sgraber is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
It's not JD green. Looks like army green to me....
Any thoughts on what it might have come out of if it's more of an army green. I'm curious.


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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
They carry them. They don't stock them, but they can order them. Sometimes it's just as cheap to get the Kohler gaskets as it is Prime Line. You will likely have to give them part numbers, depending on how good the parts guys are at your store.
Got them ordered and I'm going to order a new dipstick. Thank you for all of your help! I'll post back to this thread once I've got the new gaskets and dipstick installed.
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  #26  
Old 09-21-2017, 01:22 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Any thoughts on what it might have come out of if it's more of an army green. I'm curious.
Not a clue.



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Originally Posted by sgraber View Post
Got them ordered and I'm going to order a new dipstick. Thank you for all of your help! I'll post back to this thread once I've got the new gaskets and dipstick installed.
Dipstick's are NLA. Let us know if you find a source for a new one.
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  #27  
Old 09-21-2017, 03:03 PM
sgraber sgraber is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Dipstick's are NLA. Let us know if you find a source for a new one.
Only source I've found is Ebay.
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  #28  
Old 09-23-2017, 11:46 PM
sgraber sgraber is offline
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Update:

Thoroughly cleaned the breather plate, reed, and hole. Replaced the filter media in the breather housing. New gaskets are installed on the breather and carburetor. Purchased a couple o-rings from the hardware store and stacked them on the dipstick. The dipstick now seats tight like it should. I ran the tractor for 10-15 minutes and watched both the dipstick and the breather. The dipstick no longer pops out during startup/shutdown and the breather no longer leaks oil nor does the dipstick hole. Everything is behaving as it should.

Thank you for all the help!!!
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  #29  
Old 09-24-2017, 02:50 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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That's a good deal!
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