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  #41  
Old 07-20-2017, 10:37 AM
Baccarat Baccarat is offline
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Ironman. The one I have been using is this one on OCC parts resources.

http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cu...vice-and-parts

I've also have seen the one Lew refers to and struggle to follow things as well. Both sites have a tendency to show complete factory set ups. Unfortunately we are always dealing with mis-matched assemblies. On OCC I can't find the one Lew refers to other than when it is specifically shown as a link. Something else that neither site does well is give a part number to any particular complete assembly. It can be very confusing to match things up and requires a lot of bouncing around to find what is compatible in order to set up a seemingly simple lawn mower.
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  #42  
Old 07-20-2017, 12:22 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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It can be very confusing to match things up and requires a lot of bouncing around to find what is compatible in order to set up a seemingly simple lawn mower.

Only for some people.
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  #43  
Old 07-20-2017, 01:43 PM
Baccarat Baccarat is offline
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Originally Posted by TommyK View Post
2) The WF frame is curved to the rear. The Parts look up shows that they should be straight with the cross brace. When I post a "wanted" request I want to make sure I am looking at and getting the correct one. What was the WF frame attached to? Perhaps a smaller deck? The Parts look up indicate that the same sub-frame was used for 38" 44" & 48" decks on tractors 400,001 to 529,999. Heaven help my mental state if I would find/buy an incorrect one.

Hey Mike, the curved subframe is for 44 and 50 inch decks. If the cub cadets part list is right, you need the straight subframe, which is used for the 38 and 42 inch decks. The mule drive has a spring in front, not the tension bar. I have both WF mule drives, and i do think they're different. I'd have to dig out the tension rod one to compare.
Tom - I agree that I should have the straight frame rail. It also shows up on the Parts List for a 48" deck as well.
Mechanically the only thing that looks different between the early model mule drives with the extension spring and the mule drives with the tension bar is that the tension bar allowed you to push the pulley back and lock it there. It is easier to remove the PTO belt that way rather than having to hold the pulley by hand and remove the belt. Not a major change, but just a factory mod that made things easier. The tension bar is missing on my mule drive and Todd thought that it was not a real necessity. You simply have to hold the pulley back by hand.

I could be wrong, so I'll wait for Jon's approval before committing.

Jon - This is my first full tractor, cut me some slack. It was even confusing to Ironman.
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  #44  
Old 07-20-2017, 02:23 PM
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TommyK TommyK is offline
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Mike, I just pulled out my mule drive with the tension rod and it looks the same as the mule with the spring. I looked at what came with my cub when i bought it, it came with a 44, 50 deck mule and subframe, but the WF subframe arm was replaced with a narrow frame arm. It did fit on the tractor, the mower deck was mounted when I bought the cub. A 1968-71 38 inch mower deck.
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  #45  
Old 07-20-2017, 10:54 PM
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Tom - I spent most of the afternoon checking out the two different parts list on OCC. The "cub cadet" site and the CPE-2B file. I started writing down the information from each to compare. I ran out of paper. Now I'm at home, wondering how to approach this in a more organized and understandable fashion.

The first thing is a WF mule. The extension spring style or tension bar style seem interchangeable.

Next a subframe. The "cub cadet" site show these all to be the same for a 38", 42" or 48" deck. The only factor there is it has to be either the 1968-1971 version or the 1971-1974 version. The part numbers are the same for both the outer frame member as well as the center frame member.

The deck size is irrelevant as the frame works on any of them.

The CPE-2B file is not quite as easy to make this same comparison, but I'm going to try tomorrow.

I looked into your 44" deck setup but didn't find anything anywhere that showed it on a 108. So, I gave up on that because it doesn't really apply to me anyway.

The only thing that I can think of is that the front of a WF tractor is about 1" longer to the foot rest brace rod than it is on a NF. It's easy to understand the difference between NF & WF. In my year or so of researching and reading, I never read anything about a slight length difference as well.

I'll keep reading and researching. I hope an OCC member can help me with finding a correct subframe. I posted a "wanted" ad. Just keeping my fingers crossed. Local CL and eBay haven't yielded anything yet.

Thanks for your input and especially one to Ironman. All of his dimensional information is what help realize what I needed.

Mike
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  #46  
Old 07-21-2017, 01:12 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I could be wrong, so I'll wait for Jon's approval before committing.
Make the bar if it's missing, or find a used one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Baccarat View Post
Jon - This is my first full tractor, cut me some slack. It was even confusing to Ironman.
No surprise there.


Listen. You're making this about 10 times harder than it needs to be. The CP2E manual is very clear. I'll even point to the page number. Page 20, part call-out #7. It is the part that has the fork on it that goes over the fender support rod. It gives a part number for that part. If you read at the top of the page, just above the pic, it states: "For SN# 400,000 and below." That hitch is for a NF. The next subframe available is on page #30. While it does not state a SN# break, it states (in the description which is actually on page #29) it is for a build date of "1971-1974". Guess what. That is the year they released the first WF tractors. AND, if you check the part numbers of the part mentioned above, (both are call-out #7, incidentally) guess what. Different part numbers. So is the main frame (call-out #9). YOU HAVE A NF SUBFRAME. It's just that easy.
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  #47  
Old 07-21-2017, 11:00 AM
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Jon - Thanks for understanding.

Based on Ironman's post #32 which gave me the actual dimensional differences between the subframe on a NF versus WF I came to that conclusion. I said that in my post #34.

Yes I know that I am making this harder than it needs to be. I have an insatiable need/desire to learn and know. Hopefully at some point, I will have learned enough about these tractors and attachments that I can be a more informed contributor to this site. I know the basic differences between NF & WF. I have now learned that there is also a potential LENGTH difference in the subframes.

By comparing the part numbers for the different subframes, I can determine that if I find one it will be the correct subframe for my application. Members here will understand that if they reply to my posted wants listing. If I have to go to CL or ebay, that will probable not be the case.

Thanks for your attention
Mike
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  #48  
Old 06-10-2018, 01:49 PM
MaryB MaryB is offline
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I have a cub cadet 147 and I need to get a replacement extension spring. Does anyone know the part number?

Thanks!y
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  #49  
Old 06-10-2018, 02:47 PM
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I have a cub cadet 147 and I need to get a replacement extension spring. Does anyone know the part number?

Thanks!y
There is a whole section here with parts manuals and a parts sourcing section. If you need help because you have never used these before let me know and I can take a look for you.. Or someone might stumble upon this that knows the number off the top of their head but I think most will have to look it up.
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  #50  
Old 06-10-2018, 02:49 PM
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Also, looks like ya hijacked the post.. this might get moved to new thread
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