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  #1  
Old 04-16-2014, 11:01 AM
hootowl hootowl is offline
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Default First post... Picked up an old 1641

Hello all. I post all over ...you name it, I post. This is my first on here. I live in SE PA

Anyway... I picked up an old 1641 at auction for $160. Not too bad shape. Needs gas tank grommets and a battery for sure. Had it running a little and it sounds real nice and quiet. Looks like it was sitting for a few years.

Bunch of oil poured out once I had it running... in the vicinity of the lift cylinder underneath. Guess I'll need to drop that cover plate and see if it's the cylinder or a bad line from the axle.

If this thing runs around good it'll be my mule. No mower deck but got a rusty plow with it. I have a Simplicity Zero Turn so I need a mule for carting stuff around.

If it's a leaking line or cylinder, is it possible to just plug off the hyd line ports since I wont be using the lift?

Mike
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:12 AM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Welcome to OCC! Glad to have you!
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  #3  
Old 04-16-2014, 06:29 PM
hootowl hootowl is offline
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Thank you!
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:50 PM
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Welcome! If you need info, this is the right place.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:45 PM
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Welcome to OCC!
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Old 04-17-2014, 08:19 PM
hootowl hootowl is offline
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OK here goes. Got a battery for it and replaced the cable battery clamps. We have a place local called The Battery Post that refurbishes batteries. Picked one up for $35. 6 year warranty and it cranks like crazy. Looks like it's brand new.

Found the hydraulic leak. Removed the top cover between my legs down there and discovered the lower steel line rusted through and dripping onto the lift cylinder. I was thinking of getting a piece of similarly sized brake line and using two brass compression junctions. Any thoughts on that? Looks like a bear to remove this line so I'm thinking of hacksawing a piece out.

I replaced the bung in the gas tank at the petcock. Very easy. Replaced the fuel filter after running fresh gas through the tank and into a pail.
Fuel pump works cause gas pumps out when disconnected from the carb line.
I got it running but it won't keep running. Dribbling gas into the carb keeps it running. Runs quiet and smooth.
I guess I may have to pull the carb. Put Seafoam in... maybe after a day or two she'll clear????

Disconnected the driveshaft coupler at the engine so I could start it without it pumping oil out the rusted hyd line.

Here are my other issues....

I have been starting it with a screwdriver across the relay. It starts no matter what position the key is in and without sitting on the seat.
I even removed the key switch and it still starts.

Wires all wire nutted under the seat. Does anyone have the wiring diagram?

I would love to have a wiring diagram. I will most likely spring for a new switch.

So far I have $200 wrapped up in it.

Pics below.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2014, 12:15 AM
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Rescue11 Rescue11 is offline
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That's a pretty good deal! You will be happy with your cyclopse! Code name for the single head ligh cover models. I would guess if it sat for any amount of time that the old gas lackered up the carb.

Far as the repair goes, dont use a hack saw. Use a compact tubing cutter to remove the defunked section, as it will leave a good square end without metal filings that could cause hydro problems. Brake tubing, 3/8" o.d. if memory serves right, works good. Standard 3/8" brass compression unions will work, however flare seems to be the standard. If you have a tubing bender and flaring tool, just build a new one! Another route is to post a want add on the forum, search ebay, etc...

Good Luck and welcome to OCC!
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2014, 06:35 AM
hootowl hootowl is offline
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The reason I said hacksaw is the two lines are rigid and next to each other. Not sure if I can get a little tube cutter to swing between them even if I pull them apart. Actually removing that line looks like a lot of work. Not that I'm concerned about doing work, just not sure I want to spend so much time on it.

Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram?

Does anyone think I will get the carb cleared with seafoam or am I looking at a rebuild?
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2014, 06:40 AM
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Nice looking 1641. Clean all your electrical connections really good.
Roland will be able to supply you with a wiring diagram. You are going to have to remove the carb and at least blow it out good and try it. If that doesn't work then a teardown of the carb is required.
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:55 AM
hootowl hootowl is offline
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Thanks
Does this carb have a float bowl? Hard to see under the air filter bracket but I don't see a bowl under there. Someone suggested spraying carb cleaner directly into the fuel line that goes into the carb. I'll try that. If it won't stay running I'll pull it.

The hood, front and side covers are all in excellent condition. One hood hinge is broke. I'll weld that.

How do I contact Roland?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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