Problem Starting Engine: Please Help

[eric kancar]

Hey Jonathan
Thank you so much! Wires and connections all look clean and tight so I tried the bypass method you recommend and it didn't work with the new battery so I tried it with another older battery and it worked! Engine started cranking. Battery I just bought seems to be dead.
So you are saying that because this worked I have wiring issues? Since I couldn find any loose or dirty connections what do you think?
Is it possible that it is still the starter then?
Thanks! You're the best!
eric

[J-Mech]

Try recharging your new battery. If it still doesn't work, you either need a bigger one, or that one is bad. It happens. Put the old battery (that you used for testing) in the machine and see if it will crank it with the battery hooked up. If it works, then you just have a battery issue.

[eric kancar]

Hey Jonathan
So I have the new battery on my trickle charger. It is a 12 V that i purchased from SEARS where they sell them for lawn tractors. Is it possible that I drained it from trying to turn the engine over?
Anyway, I did as you suggested: took the older battery that worked when I did the bypass "hot-wire" as you recommended (keeping in mind that by worked it cranked the engine spinning the wheel but never fully started) and re-connected it. Turned the key and absolutely nothing happened; no cranking, no clicking of starter.

So with that said what does this tell you? Remind me, when doing the bypass hot-wire what was I bypassing again? Was it the starter? Whatever it was is probably where the issue lies since the battery was working without it.
Thanks for schooling me! Once I have the new battery charged I will try re-connecting it and possibly even doing the bypass with it.
eric

[J-Mech]

Ok Eric,
By using the jumper cables, you were bypassing the ENTIRE electrical system, but, by doing so we learned two things. We learned that the starter is good, and that the battery is good. Or, at least the older battery you used. Yes, it is possible that you just ran the new one dead. Although they are supposed to be, a new battery is seldom fully charged.

Where to go from here:
Now we need to do some testing. Do you own a test light? And a multi-meter?
IMG_20130720_205724.jpg

If you don't, go to a parts store tomorrow and buy them. You can get an analog multi-meter for about 10$-$15 and a test light shouldn't even be $10. We can probably get by without the multi-meter for now, but we really need the test light.

You don't have to thank me so much....... it isn't fixed YET.

[eric kancar]

Okay, I follow...I work all day tomorrow and it being Sunday not sure that I will be able to pick up till early in the week. My dad MAY have a multimeter...I don't believe he has a light meter though.
You mentioned at one point that if I put the battery in that worked via bypass and it also worked connected normally, that if it cranks then I just have a battery issue. Since it didn't something else is involved and that's where the light meter and multi-meter will help diagnose, correct?
thank you for simply taking the time to walk through this! Realizing it isn't fixed yet but just the fact that you are so generous with your time and knowledge means a lot, regardless of the outcome!
eric

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by eric kancar

You mentioned at one point that if I put the battery in that worked via bypass and it also worked connected normally, that if it cranks then I just have a battery issue. Since it didn't something else is involved and that's where the light meter and multi-meter will help diagnose, correct?

Yes

The test light is more user friendly, but we may need the meter too.

[eric kancar]

Is it better to get the light meter at an auto parts store or someplace like home depot or lowes?
Also, with new battery charged up again it cranks/engine wheel turns both by turning the key and by bypass jumping; but it still doesn't turn over. Looking forward to next step.
Thanks
eric

[Sam Mac]

In following this thread I don’t see that we have verified that the engine has spark. Just my 2 cents but since you have the blower shroud off and the mag is accessible I would remove the kill wire (the white wire you are pointing to in your pic), pull the spark plug and lay it against the block and then crank it over and see if you have spark. You should also be able to find out if the engine is pumping air out of the spark plug hole at the same time. If you have spark but it’s not making compression you have bigger problems with this engine. Oh and it’s not a light meter, it’s called a test light. One end has a probe that you put against the circuit you are testing the other end is a ground wire with an alligator clip that you attach to ground. If the circuit has power the light lights up very simple. Any auto parts store should have a test light.

[Leadslingingdaddy]

I guess he didn't see post 2!?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by eric kancar

Also, with new battery charged up again it cranks/engine wheel turns both by turning the key and by bypass jumping; but it still doesn't turn over.

So, you did get it to crank with the key? ..... Your wording is contradictory.....

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

In following this thread I don’t see that we have verified that the engine has spark. Just my 2 cents but since you have the blower shroud off and the mag is accessible I would remove the kill wire (the white wire you are pointing to in your pic), pull the spark plug and lay it against the block and then crank it over and see if you have spark. You should also be able to find out if the engine is pumping air out of the spark plug hole at the same time. If you have spark but it’s not making compression you have bigger problems with this engine. Oh and it’s not a light meter, it’s called a test light. One end has a probe that you put against the circuit you are testing the other end is a ground wire with an alligator clip that you attach to ground. If the circuit has power the light lights up very simple. Any auto parts store should have a test light.