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  #11  
Old 04-15-2018, 08:47 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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In my opinion, the most important step to follow as you put the clutch assembly back on the crankshaft is to make sure that when you lock the bearing down it is flush with the end of the crankshaft. The reason for that is: A. If you don't have the bearing on far enough, you may not get it locked down securely. Or (more importantly) B. If you lock it down too far back the moveable parts of the clutch will not have room to operate and you will destroy the clutch.

Look inside your clutch pulley and you will see large snap ring (marked "B" on the drawing below). When you slide the pulley on the bearing that snap ring is the stopper as to how far the pulley will go on the bearing. If the bearing is too far back on the crankshaft the orange button in the center will not have room to move.

Also on the drawing marked "A" are the Allen screws. You should have two sets of three and note that one set is tapered. See on the drawing that the tapered ones go in the hole first and the tapered tip seats just behind the bearing preventing the pulley from coming off. The second set of screws with the flat tips go in behind the tapered ones to jam lock them and preventing them from backing out.
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2018, 11:04 AM
MiniXP MiniXP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
In my opinion, the most important step to follow as you put the clutch assembly back on the crankshaft is to make sure that the when you lock the bearing down it is flush with the end of the drive shaft. The reason for that is: A. If you don't have the bearing on far enough, you may not get it locked down securely. Or (more importantly) B. If you lock it down too far back the moveable parts of the clutch will not have room to operate and you will destroy the clutch.

Look inside your clutch pulley and you will see large snap ring (marked "B" on the drawing below). When you slide the pulley on the bearing that snap ring is the stopper as to how far the pulley will go on the bearing. If the bearing is too far back on the crankshaft the orange button in the center will not have room to move.

Also on the drawing marked "A" are the Allen screws. You should have two sets of three and note that one set is tapered. See on the drawing that the tapered ones go in the hole first and the tapered tip seats just behind the bearing preventing the pulley from coming off. The second set of screws with the flat tips go in behind the tapered ones to jam lock them and preventing them from backing out.
Wow this diagram is way easier to understand than the grainy ones scanned out of old service manuals that try to show the same thing that I've been looking at
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  #13  
Old 04-15-2018, 11:44 AM
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Wow this diagram is way easier to understand than the grainy ones scanned out of old service manuals that try to show the same thing that I've been looking at
Thanks to Mr. Bedell
(p.s. I meant crankshaft, not drive shaft)
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  #14  
Old 04-16-2018, 03:08 PM
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Here is a picture of my 100 when I was working on it. Agree the key needs to be back.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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