A Tandem Cub

[jaynjeep]

Frank,

I like the idea of mounting it in the rear like you have! Keep up the good work!
The front mount will work for sure but it will be cleaner and hidden in the rear!

[J-Mech]

Frank, I don't think you have room for a Lovejoy coupler. Distance is too far, and the coupler will be too big around. It will hit the top of the trans. You can direct drive it.... but it needs to be in line, or have some flex. Honestly, the rear shaft for the rear PTO units wasn't a tight fit. You can likely make something similar.

[DieselDoctor]

How about mounting the spool valve under the rear of the footrest and be pedal operated. Mounted like that it would be similar to a differential lock pedal on the big tractors. Just a thought.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

.....I got a new battery. It cranked over both hydros easily ......

[Alvy]

Looks great Frank. As you said it leaves you the option of using the front pto and also not having to engage the pto as it will be constantly spinning. Looks cleaner and hidden that way. Although I suggested the location of it earlier Frank I can’t take the credit. I’ve been trying to figure out where I originally saw this done here. I’m thinking it was a few years ago and Tim Crutcher did it. Anyways good deal. Are you going to transfer your top plate you modified to that hydro? I think you’ll have plenty of fluid from just one hydro to raise the bed. Good fab work!

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Frank, I don't think you have room for a Lovejoy coupler. Distance is too far, and the coupler will be too big around. It will hit the top of the trans. You can direct drive it.... but it needs to be in line, or have some flex. Honestly, the rear shaft for the rear PTO units wasn't a tight fit. You can likely make something similar.

Not familiar with the rear PTO units you are referring to.

I measured the clearance to the transmission lid and the shaft and I think there is room. The Lovejoy coupler is 1-3/16 dia, and there is room for an almost 2 inch dia coupling.

I see that the two shafts are separated by four or five inches, and I thought about that. Plan was to create an extension to the pump shaft to accommodate the Lovejoy coupling. I am concerned about supporting that shaft but the pump shaft is 1-1/2 inches long and I thought an extension shaft could be adequately supported if I used all of that length inside the extension.

But I'd rather not deal with it if a solid sleeve (as I used for alignment) would work. Other than a lovejoy or similar device, I don't know how to get flex in the pump drive. The only U-joints I see are low speed or very expensive so that doesn't appear to be an option either.

If I created a drive shaft from the hydro to the pump with a sleeve that was a bit loose, and pinned it to both shafts so it had a bit of wiggle to it, that might work? Is that what you mean, Jon?

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by Alvy

Looks great Frank. As you said it leaves you the option of using the front pto and also not having to engage the pto as it will be constantly spinning. Looks cleaner and hidden that way. Although I suggested the location of it earlier Frank I can’t take the credit. I’ve been trying to figure out where I originally saw this done here. I’m thinking it was a few years ago and Tim Crutcher did it. Anyways good deal. Are you going to transfer your top plate you modified to that hydro? I think you’ll have plenty of fluid from just one hydro to raise the bed. Good fab work!

A bit concerned about making it a little too complicated in that place by moving the modified lid. It would make the suction line very short which would be good but the return from the valve would be longer. So, maybe a wash?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Not familiar with the rear PTO units you are referring to.

Rear PTO units on a SGT.

This:
Image.jpg

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

I measured the clearance to the transmission lid and the shaft and I think there is room. The Lovejoy coupler is 1-3/16 dia, and there is room for an almost 2 inch dia coupling.

I see that the two shafts are separated by four or five inches, and I thought about that. Plan was to create an extension to the pump shaft to accommodate the Lovejoy coupling. I am concerned about supporting that shaft but the pump shaft is 1-1/2 inches long and I thought an extension shaft could be adequately supported if I used all of that length inside the extension.

But I'd rather not deal with it if a solid sleeve (as I used for alignment) would work. Other than a lovejoy or similar device, I don't know how to get flex in the pump drive. The only U-joints I see are low speed or very expensive so that doesn't appear to be an option either.

If I created a drive shaft from the hydro to the pump with a sleeve that was a bit loose, and pinned it to both shafts so it had a bit of wiggle to it, that might work? Is that what you mean, Jon?

Yes, that is what I mean. Except the pump I assume is a keyed shaft. The short driveshaft needs to be keyed, and very tight fit, but it can be pinned on the other end. I wouldn't necessarily say "loose" but not press fit. Just like the parts on a driveshaft. Able to slide over the shaft. You may or may not be able to align the shafts. If you have room for a lovejoy, that is easier, as that way you don't have to align it. If you do use a lovejoy, I think your pump mount and the distance is going to be an issue. That pump will have to be mounted solid. On the angle iron cross bar with two bolts on it, it is going to vibrate, and may fling the driveshaft apart. (Because of the length of the shaft.) If it was mine, I would plan to align it, and run a pinned coupling on the trans, loose press fit to the pump shaft with set screws and hope for the best. On the pump mount, I would have used the angle iron across the top of the rear of the trans, bolted where the PTO block would be and not attach anything to the frame itself.

All in all, I hope I'm not driving you crazy. I've worked on, built, redesigned and repaired so much equipment, that this is all easy stuff for me. Sure there are many ways to do things, but I can also see potential issues, such as the distance between that pump and the driveshaft, being an issue if using a lovejoy. BTDT. Shaft vibration is insane when things aren't inline. I would rather tell you I see an issue than you build it, fling it apart, tear up the pump, mount and maybe a coupler then have to start over. This is a pretty complicated build for someone with limited experience in fabricating. (No offence intended.)

[sawdustdad]

Jon, I appreciate all the help I can get. You are right, I've built a lot of furniture so wood is my medium more than metal. I can dovetail a carcase or build a drawer with a piston-like fit in a cabinet. But my experience in mechanics is pretty limited, so I'm learning as I go, which, for me, is the fun part. So all your advice is actually helpful, and I take it all that way. So keep it coming! (my shop is full of woodworking tools with only a few metal working tools-if that's any indication)

I don't see an easy way to use the boss on the top of the transmission to support the pump the way the rear PTO bearing block is mounted. The pump flange is below that boss in order to align with the hydro shaft. There are no holes in the top of the transmission, though I could drill and tap them if it would be helpful. I'll look at it again...

I thought about the 2 bolt mount of the pump and share the concern about vibration. It seems solid, but the angle is bound to flex. I was still looking at a way to secure the bottom two pump flange holes with another angle from the lower part of the frame. But there's not much room to do that and I want to be able to take it apart for service, too. I'm still looking at that. The pump just barely fits in this little space behind the gearcase cover and the raised boss on the back of the axle case.

At this point, shaft alignment is pretty close. The sleeve between the two shafts turns without turning either shaft, so there is no "binding" that would indicate a misalignment. I made the sleeve on the lathe, so it's accurately machined. I'm sure it's off a few mils, but not a bunch.

I'm thinking about a pair of high speed self aligning pillow block bearings fastened to the transmission cover to support the shaft and the Lovejoy coupling. A little worried that the transmission cover would vibrate but it's actually pretty stout and I can't see it failing in any catastrophic way. I think this might be the best solution as it would reduce vibration to the pump and address any misalignments. And two bolts may be enough to hold the pump in that situation. As long as I don't let any of the fasteners come loose and drop into the gear case. Will have to use lock nuts or safety wire.

It's always a trade off between keeping things simple and maybe reducing long term reliability and spending lots of time and money to make it perfect.

[darkminion_17]

I found this in the archives.
Maybe it will help.
Here is the link.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...d.php?p=384106