New 682 (I may have a problem)

[Gompers]

Did a bit more thorough look around and found an 1861 that's been sitting for a bit, but has a solid M18 in it with only about 100hrs on a rebuild.

Going to go grab the whole thing and part out everything else.

Anyone want some 1861 parts cheap?

[Gompers]

So went and snagged that M18 on Monday. Story I was told is that it sat for about 3 years outside and was stuck. Has somewhere north of 1000 hours on it, but was "freshened up" after it hit 1000, and it was run 100-300 hours after that. The PTO wasn't engaging properly so that's why the tractor got sat.

I was told it was stuck, and it appeared to be. But it had clean looking oil, and no obvious issues aside from the flywheel not moving.

Got it home, pulled the plugs and put some ATF, PB Blaster and Marvel in the cylinders.

Pulled the air cleaner off to take a peek and it looks like brand new in there. Don't know that I've ever seen an air cleaner that looks so clean actually. Looked like the filter element and precleaner were literally brand new.


Throttle shaft is tight and that's encouraging as well.

Decided to pull the tin and see what it had going on.

#2 side looked pretty darn clean.
Once I got the front tin off, it was clear that at least part of the issue was the giant mouse nest on the #1 side

Cleaned that out, and noticed it had gotten a little rusty around where the magneto is against the flywheel, and I figured that may have something to do with why the flywheel wasn't turning.

Pulled the magneto off and sure enough, a good tug by hand on the flywheel and it started moving. Went real slow and gentle with it and after a few revolutions it's turning really easy and smooth. Both pistons are moving just fine, so that all seems to be in order. Going to let it sit with the mixture in it for a bit with pistons at TDC, but I'm going to guess that everything is fine in there

Peeked in oil fill and the governor gear looks to be fine.

Next step is to clean up the magneto and flywheel, and the engine in general (especially #1), and then see what I've got.

Interesting that they just had a blowoff tube on the crankcase breather and didn't have it hooked up to the air cleaner. That's a bit concerning but will see what I got when I get it running.

Wiring looks pretty straightforward. Probably just grab a 5 pin relay and wire it into the existing 12v ignition situation to convert it.

I'm assuming I can put the exhaust manifold/muffler and tinwork from the KT17 on there so that it fits better in the grill? Or does the cyclops setup work ok with the 82 series grilles?

Also, is the PTO the same on here as an 82 series, or should I swap in the one I pulled off my KT17?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Gompers

Interesting that they just had a blowoff tube on the crankcase breather and didn't have it hooked up to the air cleaner. That's a bit concerning but will see what I got when I get it running.

It's NBD. Only reason it goes into the air filter housing is emission laws. Can't vent the crankcase into the atmosphere. The crankcase gas has to be "burned" or children get cancer and die by age 5 you know.

I prefer it going into the air cleaner.... but only because the hole is in the housing. Hard to plug that hole and it seal up good. Plus, the proper hose is just so handy to hook up. Otherwise, there is no issues with it venting outside with a hose.

Originally Posted by Gompers

Wiring looks pretty straightforward. Probably just grab a 5 pin relay and wire it into the existing 12v ignition situation to convert it.

Simplest solution.

Originally Posted by Gompers

I'm assuming I can put the exhaust manifold/muffler and tinwork from the KT17 on there so that it fits better in the grill? Or does the cyclops setup work ok with the 82 series grilles?

Yes, you can. No, the cyclops setup doesn't work on an 82 series. Not well anyway.

Originally Posted by Gompers

Also, is the PTO the same on here as an 82 series, or should I swap in the one I pulled off my KT17?

Yes, same size.



On another note.... before you go dumping concoctions in the cylinders again... might check the obvious first. Only issue now is it is going to smoke a while, and that wasn't necessary. Never assume a PO has any idea what they are talking about. First rule of any repair is confirm the diagnosis.

[Gompers]

I was just wondering if it had a bunch of blowby or something. I’ll probably put the proper vent in it because I have it and I think it looks better.

Thanks for the info! Too bad it’s not summertime so I can use it as a mosquito fogger.

[ol'George]

Now get the air hose to the inside of the flywheel and blow the debris out
Be careful as those magnets are attached with epoxy and not all that well after all these years.
Those rodents nests packed in there,combined with someone trying to turn it, just might have caused havoc in there.
If it were me, I'd pull the flywheel and have a good look see.
Also a good time to check the crank seal for obvious leakage, if dry, leave it alone.
Rust on the outside magneto magnets is of no real concern other than just a little sand paper to clean them.
Air gap is .010

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Now get the air hose to the inside of the flywheel and blow the debris out
Be careful as those magnets are attached with epoxy and not all that well after all these years.
Those rodents nests packed in there,combined with someone trying to turn it, just might have caused havoc in there.
If it were me, I'd pull the flywheel and have a good look see.
Also a good time to check the crank seal for obvious leakage, if dry, leave it alone.
Rust on the outside magneto magnets is of no real concern other than just a little sand paper to clean them.
Air gap is .010

I did poke a light and inspection mirror in there and it looked clean to me. They went towards the back of the engine instead. Probably not the worst idea to slip the flywheel off though.

Looking at the block around the seals, they seem to be ok, but it's been sitting so who knows.

Thanks for the advice guys!

[Marko141]

Maybe while your there it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them, less work later

[SS5150]

I was thinking that too. While the engine is apart I think I'd pop both crank seals in. I think I paid $15-20 for the pair this summer for mine.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by SS5150

I was thinking that too. While the engine is apart I think I'd pop both crank seals in. I think I paid $15-20 for the pair this summer for mine.

Where'd you get them? I needed one for a Magnum 18 and Kohler wanted about that much for one. Never could come up with a crossover for the seal--I forget which one it was. I think Lew came along with a deal I couldn't refuse, he got hungry again.

[darkminion_17]

I just ate so I am not hungry anymore.