1450....no spark - Page 2

metalrain · #11 09-13-2009, 10:06 PM

Well, i got the 1450 running...after 4 years of sitting. Lots of smoke but i kinda knew that going in. I'm surprised everything works...the electric pto worked as it should. The hydraulic lift ran smooth....lots of vibration at a higher idle.
I will tear it all down in the next few weeks, rework the engine, and get it looking good. I'll update as i go along.
Heres what it looks like now...

Metalrain

ACecil · #12 09-13-2009, 10:22 PM

Nice work, metalrain! Glad you got your 1450 going. Thanks for the pic.

RPalmer · #13 09-14-2009, 10:57 AM

metalrain,
Good job. You have a good looking tractor. Personally I like the head lights. It would cost a bit to put them on. I'm looking forward to your updates.

metalrain · #14 09-19-2009, 03:50 AM

Gentlemen:

Able to breakdown some of the 1450 over the last few days. Pulled the motor and found the rubber mounts trashed ofcourse. The left rear oil pan bolt worked its way out over the years and hollowed out the hole enough to where i need a new pan. I want to go cast iron. Will any 12-14-16hp kohler pan work? or do i need to be 14hp specific?

I found this thing setting in a scrap iron pile....told its been there for 4 or 5 years....its actually one of the cleanest cubs i've come across...nothing has been molested...check out the wiring...

this is the way it came...haven't cleaned it yet..not alot of dirt or oil...

The engine bay is a different story...

Well, almost non molested...whats up with the weld?

Rear pan and fender in excellent shape...except for the battery box...

This is how it sets now...not a complete teardown, but enough to get it cleaned up...i'll tear into the motor and see what that looks like....

Metalrain

R Bedell · #15 09-19-2009, 06:28 AM

I would like to see a better image of the back end of your tractor. Looks like you have a very unique setup there. It appears that there is a Cat 0 3 PT hitch and a tiller bracket.

metalrain · #16 09-19-2009, 08:53 AM

Don't know much about it...it came with a tiller...guy said he used the tiller all the time and it worked good...

Metalrain

metalrain · #17 09-19-2009, 10:16 AM

Wild Bill;

No, it wont be a complete restoration. I'll check the motor out and see what that needs, hopefully maybe just a set of rings. I've torn it down as far as i'm gonna....clean the frame up good, give it a quick paint job (basecoat/clearcoat) and call it good. I plan to use it to do alittle tilling....maybe some mowing (i use a 125 now to do the bulk mowing).....i cant see putting more than 15 to 20 hours a year on it....but you know how it goes....things can change quickly. I have a good aluminum pan, is it worth putting that back on? Will lock-tite keep the pan bolts in place? or is it a must to put a cast iron pan on?

Thanks guys

Metalrain

clint · #18 09-19-2009, 09:19 PM

Someone had welded the 3 point hitch setup on the back...however they did not mess up anything that I can see. If it were me, while I had it apart I would cut it off the frame at the welds, grind the welds back down, repaint, then fabricate a mounting bracket to mount the 3 point hitch to the rear. It's a nice setup that I would keep for sure.

On the stripped threads don't leave out the option of a helicoil, there is another type of threaded insert that is also very strong, but I forget the name. A helicoil done correct is stronger than a tapped hole, that's in steel, so it would definitely be stronger in aluminum. I also have a 1450, and my motor needed a lot of money spent on it, I still have it for suture use I hope one day, however I'm going back with a B&S Vanguard I had on hand, 18 HP I hope it will turn out well I really like the 1450. Mine also has headlights, and I didn't find the bad motor until I spent lots of money on wiring, switch, drive shaft etc, now I will have to redo all of that.

Clint

clint · #19 09-19-2009, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by metalrain

Wild Bill;
i cant see putting more than 15 to 20 hours a year on it....but you know how it goes....things can change quickly. I have a good aluminum pan, is it worth putting that back on? Will lock-tite keep the pan bolts in place? or is it a must to put a cast iron pan on?
Metalrain

You may eat your words once you take a few rounds on a correct setup 1450, I love the QL series as far as vibration, the vibration on a 127, 122, 149 is a lot compared to the 1450 QL. Some love them, some hate them, see what you think once you get the ISO mounts replaced.

You will not have any problems with a aluminum pan once you correct the ISO mounts, from what I have seen, along with reading The ISO mounts being bad, deteriorated, "gone", "almost gone", pretty much gone is what causes the bolt to waller out the threaded holes. Don't forget to read over the tech section, do that engine cradle upgrade.... that will lengthen the life of the ISO mounts

Be sure to check your drive shaft when you finish the ISO mounts, odds are it needs some attention, you can get by cheap on this if you do it yourself, and you can also choose a premium material for the drive shaft. You have a great 1450 to start with. Mine looks just about like yours, paint may be just a bit better, but yours has a few things that are better than mine. I also like the head lights, mine came with them as well, I reckon our 1450 are sisters both being built in 76... tis a good year I was born that year as well.

metalrain · #20 09-20-2009, 05:21 AM

Thanks for the info Clint...
As for the hitch, the frame has 3 bolt holes on each side that line up on the left side with the hitch, but not on the right side. I think it would be just a matter of drilling three holes in the side of the hitch on the right side to mount it correctly.

You mention that the drive shaft might need attention...what exactly would i be looking for? You also mention to choose a premium material??? do i need to build a new drive shaft??
Guess i'm not real sure what i need to look for when it comes to the drive shaft.

Metalrain